99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Thanks bro i see you got some nice#s in your sig what is you set up?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Thanks man, this was a good experience for me i've always thought that i will be alot hassle trying to install everything back and get the car running.
I learned alot about the GE engine and the difference between the VVTi and non VVti.
It would been done like a month ago !!! I just have been waiting on parts some took 6 weeks to get, Turbo was on B/O and i didn't wanna wait 2 months for the Turbo so that's why i upgraede to the 6765.
It's a 1 days job that took 2 weeks since i didn't have all the parts on hand.
I was shocked that she fired right up, as soon as i get the DP i will be on the dyno.

Next mods will be FFIM, HKS272 and Fuel System then go back for retune.
Let me know if you need help with wiring i can tell you what i did in term of wiring the the cam and crank sensor and you can also Pm "AliSC3" he helped me alot.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah, it really wasn't that bad. its almost like they designed the n/a harness for you to easily wire up individual cam and crank sensors in the engine bay. that plus a coil on plug harness and it was good to go.
lets see some new pics.. lol.

YeA 2jZ

iTrader: (15)

you guys are full of info and once i start my project i will be bothering the hell outta of u two so I really hope to dont mind. I just need to pick up a new daily beater so i can just park it and get to work QuickGS i really want to see the wiring you did for the cam and crank sensor thats the only thing i am iffy about. Also what modle AEM are you running ?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

OK i will give you a little run down..
The AEM only need one cam sensor and the 2jzge VVti uses only one cam sensor.
The plug connector that connects to the Distributor has it think 4 wires
Cam sensor
Crank sensor
Ground
and the 4th one you don't need
Ok you run a shielded wire from the crank sensor signal wire to the distributor plug wire that correspond to the cam sensor, same thing go the crank sensor.
So you only have on left on the crank and cam sensor and and one on the distributor plug since you are not using the 4th one.
So those 3 wires you tie together they are EcU ground they groung at the ECU.
You will need to find out which wire on the crank and cam sensor is signal.
I am using the TT AEM 30-1100
Let me know when you are ready i will tear it apart and take some pics for you, I will be doing the same mods on my buddy's MK4 we are doing the 1.5JZ using the VVTi coils and ignitor AEM30-1100 and will be using the 2JZGE harness instead of the
1JZGTE /2JZGTE since you will need the HKS DLI with the GTE and he does have to buy a GTE harness and send it out to Dr Tweak.
Whenever you are ready i will be more than happy to help with this setup, i love the way my engine bay looks man lol the only thing missing is the FFIM!!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yup, pretty much it. the connector for the distributor is in a good spot too on the ge harness.

mr2tosc4

iTrader: (1)

nice to see that you're finally getting it done the way you want it to Omar...so is the 1j sitting in Al's lot used to be yours?

Eric

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Yes Eric that was 1JZ, It was fun at first but couple week later it i got bored with it.
I haven't seen you in a long time!! How is the Sc doing ?

Slow_Sc3

iTrader: (1)

so your calling me boring lol i cant wait to come check out this monster, ps: can you hook me up with a ge harness im going to try it out.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

lol No you don't have a 1JZ and you car is not borring believe me i know.
Let me check should have one i will keep you posted.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

So last night i was messing around trying to get my tach working, and i finally got it working, You need to wire the tach wire coming from the ignitor the actual tach wire which is a black wire.
it's on the 5 wire connector that goes to the old ignitor and then jump the resistor R109 just like when you you do the 1JZGTE swap in the SC and BAM the tach is working.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

nice, you figured out what color it was. did you do that wire trick with the old IGF wire, or did you just run a new one from the ignitor?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Ok i just ran the wire that you installed at the ignitor for the tach signal to the ECU and i tied into the old tach signal wire coming from the old ignitor.
The old ignitor has 5 wires, black/white with green/white with blue/orange whith red and the last one i don't remember so i just used the black one and i will be removing all the wires that i won't need to keep the car running.

I hooked up my AEM UEGO and my AFR was aroung 16.5 at Idle lean as hell, i will finish it up tonight so hopefully i get it tuned and dyno tomorrow.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Ali we back up and running boosting hard, i am not sure if my tach is off or what but this billet spools at 2700 rpm and hit full boost at 4k damnnnnn , it's umbelieveable lol going back for tuning and dyno tomorrow.
I don't know why but it has alot of tq maybe because it 9.2 CR

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

awesome, can't wait to see it. Those numbers sound really good and they are probably right. I will show you how to log it this weekend if Brad doesn't so you can see exactly whats happening, the log is much more accurate than the tach or boost gauge. In fact have him log your dyno pull at the end if you do one.
torque Ftw. you will enjoy the extra compression, thats why I haven't messed with mine yet.