SC 300 change spark plugs
04-13-10, 12:20 PM
#2
dont bother..... LOL one thing i wont ever ****ing do on my sc.
well if your mechanically inclined it pretty much goes like so
1. Remove top cover, unbolt throttle body/ Y pipe and push back towards firewall and theyll all be in a line right there..... it sounds easier on paper just go take a look and youll see what im saying
well if your mechanically inclined it pretty much goes like so
1. Remove top cover, unbolt throttle body/ Y pipe and push back towards firewall and theyll all be in a line right there..... it sounds easier on paper just go take a look and youll see what im saying
04-13-10, 12:22 PM
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Francisco, Ca
Posts: 671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
here it is:
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/spa.../na/index.html
i just did it yesterday. it is a bit time consuming compared to other cars but isn't that bad.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/spa.../na/index.html
i just did it yesterday. it is a bit time consuming compared to other cars but isn't that bad.
04-13-10, 01:48 PM
#4
its very simple. unbolt your throttle body(6-12mm bolts) and slide it out towards the passenger fender just enough to get the socket through. No need to disconnect all the vacuum lines, or coolant lines. You dont need to remove the "Y" pipe. Remove front and rear covers, un-plug spark plug wires, remove plugs, gap new plugs, install them, tighten TB and plug covers, done. 30minutes tops
02-21-11, 01:42 PM
#5
Pole Position
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its very simple. unbolt your throttle body(6-12mm bolts) and slide it out towards the passenger fender just enough to get the socket through. No need to disconnect all the vacuum lines, or coolant lines. You dont need to remove the "Y" pipe. Remove front and rear covers, un-plug spark plug wires, remove plugs, gap new plugs, install them, tighten TB and plug covers, done. 30minutes tops
02-21-11, 06:19 PM
#6
Lead Lap
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: CA
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it doesn't take that long if you been in there a few times, Ive just installed my turbo kit so i had to put in new plugs ran it for awhile then i decided to re gap the plugs to my liking and after a few times i think i can get into it and out in maybe 20-30 mins? thats with the hassle of using some pliers to unscrew the bottom studs of the TB 1/8 turn at a time...(TB wont slide out to clear them because it hits the turbo)
the first time i struggled with the lower water line that is under the TB leading toward the driver side under the intake mani that is damn near impossible to get to... i think i followed it to a bracket thats near the oil filter housing and i undid that if i remember right and that gave it enough slack to pull the TB and clear the studs
the first time i struggled with the lower water line that is under the TB leading toward the driver side under the intake mani that is damn near impossible to get to... i think i followed it to a bracket thats near the oil filter housing and i undid that if i remember right and that gave it enough slack to pull the TB and clear the studs
Trending Topics
02-21-11, 08:44 PM
#8
Pole Position
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it doesn't take that long if you been in there a few times, Ive just installed my turbo kit so i had to put in new plugs ran it for awhile then i decided to re gap the plugs to my liking and after a few times i think i can get into it and out in maybe 20-30 mins? thats with the hassle of using some pliers to unscrew the bottom studs of the TB 1/8 turn at a time...(TB wont slide out to clear them because it hits the turbo)
the first time i struggled with the lower water line that is under the TB leading toward the driver side under the intake mani that is damn near impossible to get to... i think i followed it to a bracket thats near the oil filter housing and i undid that if i remember right and that gave it enough slack to pull the TB and clear the studs
the first time i struggled with the lower water line that is under the TB leading toward the driver side under the intake mani that is damn near impossible to get to... i think i followed it to a bracket thats near the oil filter housing and i undid that if i remember right and that gave it enough slack to pull the TB and clear the studs
thats good to know. i will try turbodreamz method w/o removing the tb like before. it certainly took a lot longer than i ever thought it would. curious to see if i can do it without destroying something.
02-24-11, 02:36 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: ca
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just finished my plugs wires cap rotor and serp belt. All I did is unbolt tb, disconnect a few lines, slide over and install everything. For the first 5 miles my car had a huge change in throttle response (first tune up on this 92 sc300 ever). But after driving a few more blocks it began to hiccup really bad. The power is still there but there is a hesitation any time you step on the pedal and when it changes gears. At WOT it works perfectly. Its almost like my car is confused
06-26-11, 07:50 PM
#11
Driver
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
06-29-11, 05:08 PM
#12
Rookie
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Ga
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
did you remove the upper intake? it will leak from underside of the throttle body. if you see coolant on the electrode side of the plug, you could have a bad headgasket or a cracked head, or cracked block. does you oil look like chocolate milk?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
