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official 1jz vvti parts thread

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Old 03-16-11, 07:58 AM
  #106  
Vrank
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Really not trying to be a d-bag, but I believe you're spreading mis information dex.

First, you replied to my post about the non vvti injectors saying they work with the older rail on the vvti, wrong. The mounting tabs and fuel ports are completely different. You MUST use the non vvti lower intake AND non vvti fuel rail together.

Second, why do you say you need a five speed ecu? That's a crock.

I'm not hating about you having more money, faster car, etc, but if that excuse makes you feel better, then I'll give you a cookie. I'm just saying that this thread is, or started
Off, geared towards the diy-er, and we should keep it that way. Stop spreading misinformation, or if you post, make sure it's clear or concise. <3
Old 04-03-11, 07:17 PM
  #107  
sc5sdanny
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dexlex2002 car looks great thanks for all the info!!! I will be vvti for the meet in april 17
Old 06-03-11, 03:01 PM
  #108  
mr/griffin
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Originally Posted by dexlex2002
the old turbo setup
you still got turbo inlet manifold!?! dont kno the name lol or any of those parts for sale?
Old 08-17-11, 07:26 AM
  #109  
Vrank
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Mr griffin if you still need that crap I prob have it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVTMl...e_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oL7FE...e_gdata_player


Setup is:

1jzgte vvti
Stock injectors
Walbro 255
Nozzs (?) manifold off eBay
44 mm tial mvs
Holset hy35
4" down pipe
14 psi
Bkr7e @ .024
~3200lbs
untuned, no piggybacks


Car hits fuel cut in 3rd through 5th bad at wot, but feels amazing. I have ****ty piping, turbo side has a huge kink and I still get 14psi by around 3600. Jumps from like 8-14psi in about 200rpm's. Can go 2/3 throttle all the way up, beat a couple 330ish whp mazdaspeed 3's the other night feathering just under cut.

This thing with the Holset comes on line nearly as quick as the non vvti 1j with twins that it replaced.
Old 08-17-11, 07:35 AM
  #110  
Vrank
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Would also like to add that the manifold was a huge pile of crap. I had to wallow out the holes on the flange to the head to get it to fit right, it also needs to be decked and had to wallow out the holes on the turbo and t3 gasket so it would fit the crappy t3 flange. I also completely changed the dump tube as it was facing forward. And a bunch of clean-up grinding. Maybe they revised it since then, but it was a hassle.
Old 08-17-11, 07:05 PM
  #111  
dexlex2002
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Originally Posted by Vrank
Would also like to add that the manifold was a huge pile of crap. I had to wallow out the holes on the flange to the head to get it to fit right, it also needs to be decked and had to wallow out the holes on the turbo and t3 gasket so it would fit the crappy t3 flange. I also completely changed the dump tube as it was facing forward. And a bunch of clean-up grinding. Maybe they revised it since then, but it was a hassle.
im glad you got the car running.

Last edited by dexlex2002; 08-17-11 at 07:09 PM.
Old 08-18-11, 03:40 AM
  #112  
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Thank you sir.
Old 08-18-11, 08:21 AM
  #113  
dexlex2002
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yeah, never liked the ebay manifold because of the wastegate pipe facing forward. The quality is pretty ****ty. How much power are you looking for?
Old 08-21-11, 08:27 AM
  #114  
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My goal is to make as much power as I can for as cheap as possible. This is what I have here waiting to be installed:
Greddy emanage ultimate w/pressure sensor and wideband harness
magnafuel afpr
usdm 550cc injectors
usdm 2jzgte exh cam machined to fit
Old 08-26-11, 06:32 PM
  #115  
adam8103
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Originally Posted by cartmill
so, i figured out the AC after a little testing last night.
the Blue/Red wire on plug A, it pulls to ground with the A/C switch to ON.

ALSO, when the Chaser ecu sees a ground at the AC pin (signal input so it knows to raise the idle) it puts out +12v to the ACMG pin (out to the AC relay)
THIS IS BACKWARDS FROM THE LEXUS ECU (the Lexus ecu grounds pin ACMG, which grounds the AC relay).

so i just ran the ac switch wire from the climate control down to the ECU (to ground that pin and raise the idle) and tee'd the wire up to also ground the AC relay. it's perfect.

*contributing more to the people who couldn't find all the hidden Chaser ecu information*
Cartmill, i just decided to hook up the ac, i understand how the coponents works but i tried to find the wire that pulls to ground when you push the AC switch to ON you said the blue and red wire on the plug A which i dont know which plug you are talking about. I have tried all B-R wires that i saw that connects to the AC controller and the plug that connects the ac wires to the engine harness under the blower... nothing pulls to ground when i push the switch... i must not see the plug you are talking about
Old 08-26-11, 07:41 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by adam8103
Cartmill, i just decided to hook up the ac, i understand how the coponents works but i tried to find the wire that pulls to ground when you push the AC switch to ON you said the blue and red wire on the plug A which i dont know which plug you are talking about. I have tried all B-R wires that i saw that connects to the AC controller and the plug that connects the ac wires to the engine harness under the blower... nothing pulls to ground when i push the switch... i must not see the plug you are talking about


plug A is the smallest of the 3 plugs that plug into the back of the climate control unit. 11 pins.

also, are you checking B/R wires, or L/R wires?
B/R (what you posted above) is black with a red stripe. L/R is blue. just want to make sure
what year is your car? i was doing all of this to my 92 sc400.
Old 08-27-11, 07:33 AM
  #117  
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Thanks Cartmill, i was checking the L-R wire as it was shown on my diagram but it was really dark outside so maybe i was not seing correctly, i had the car running and spliced the wire and check continuity to ground on the chassis whhen ac boutton on and of and nothing either way but i will try with the L-R wire on the smallest plug again.

thanks
Old 08-27-11, 09:44 AM
  #118  
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also, (IIRC) be aware that that pin is very low voltage when the AC button is OFF, and goes to ground with the AC button ON, so you may need to set your voltage decimals over 1 or 2 places on your multimeter

it should show up as voltage with the botton off, ground with the button on.

again, it's been a year since i've done this, so i could be totally wrong
Old 08-28-11, 06:43 PM
  #119  
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i havent work on it yet but i was checking continuity to ground not voltage, usually there would be almost no resistance to ground (chassis) if i turn the ac on but there was no connection between ground and this wire. maybe it is so small or maybe it is a different ground then the chassis which i would not really get but i will try tomorrow and i will give you my results.
Old 08-29-11, 07:30 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by adam8103
i havent work on it yet but i was checking continuity to ground not voltage, usually there would be almost no resistance to ground (chassis) if i turn the ac on but there was no connection between ground and this wire. maybe it is so small or maybe it is a different ground then the chassis which i would not really get but i will try tomorrow and i will give you my results.

ok that continuity test matches what i was saying about the voltage at that pin.

so if you hit the AC button, that pin goes to GROUND. that matches your test.

now check the voltage at that pin with the AC button OFF, and the pin should have .1v or some small amount of voltage (.1v is just a guess).


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