1JZ build questions / performance / maintenance. ALL ANSWERED
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Hey everyone, this is a thread is entirely dedicated to the purpose of educating and answering all the questions that anyone may have towards the swap, maintenance, and build of the 1JZ-GTE in our vehicles.
Before you flame or criticize the idea, I'd like to establish first that though there have dozens and dozens of build threads, parts lists, and miscellaneous threads dedicated to the topic - they're all spread across this website. The build threads are great and all but nevertheless, there are only pictures and questions of small issues. Their purpose is to notify the public on a handful of issues that the person is going up against. To add on to that, there is also a thread that's dedicated to "posting your 1jz issues" but it seems long and outdated. There is also a parts list for the swaps too but I don't feel like it's detailed enough. Your only friend at the end of the day is the search button.
My point is, in the last 2+ months, I've dedicated myself to the research of this fabled "easy and cheap" swap. I want to create an environment where new and seasoned players can share the information in an organized manner.
I have to give major credit to quickgs300, biggu, sventhemac, consynx, and ryanv for all the information provided in your threads. Thank you for pioneering the way for most of us. I'm sure there are people who have contributed but these are the names at the top of my head, so please do not take offense.
Please chime in all 1JZ-GTE seasoned swappers. Stay tuned rookies, you might fall in love with the engine and find out that the 2JZ-GTE swap is not for you.
Without further ado, I'd like to throw out my question. I've already done my homework with the search button.
"Which toyota repair manual would you use to work on the 1JZ engine?"
Before you flame or criticize the idea, I'd like to establish first that though there have dozens and dozens of build threads, parts lists, and miscellaneous threads dedicated to the topic - they're all spread across this website. The build threads are great and all but nevertheless, there are only pictures and questions of small issues. Their purpose is to notify the public on a handful of issues that the person is going up against. To add on to that, there is also a thread that's dedicated to "posting your 1jz issues" but it seems long and outdated. There is also a parts list for the swaps too but I don't feel like it's detailed enough. Your only friend at the end of the day is the search button.
My point is, in the last 2+ months, I've dedicated myself to the research of this fabled "easy and cheap" swap. I want to create an environment where new and seasoned players can share the information in an organized manner.
I have to give major credit to quickgs300, biggu, sventhemac, consynx, and ryanv for all the information provided in your threads. Thank you for pioneering the way for most of us. I'm sure there are people who have contributed but these are the names at the top of my head, so please do not take offense.
Please chime in all 1JZ-GTE seasoned swappers. Stay tuned rookies, you might fall in love with the engine and find out that the 2JZ-GTE swap is not for you.
Without further ado, I'd like to throw out my question. I've already done my homework with the search button.
"Which toyota repair manual would you use to work on the 1JZ engine?"
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BINGO
I will say - ALOT of info in this WHOLE Forum is pretty Dead ended.thats the 1 thing I hate about this board.
I've taken on what I believe is a Hard 1JZ swap (and really its not that bad),and thats Putting it into a SC400.No one has any real Dedicated to the SC400 and only limited SC300 that actually gives you ALL the info you need and what parts are needed.
even as far as Wiring harness'.
Everyone Says you have to extend it and blah,blah blah But that is Such a Crock.once again. - People send thier harness' and get ripped off and Pay $500-$600+ to have someone else extend it for no reason at all.
if you really want it (remove the Huge Black plastic Case that attaches to the inside of the Intake mani P.I.T.*** and Run the Wires taped/covered up only - that will give you about 4-6 inches of movement towards the pass side) Right extend maybe 25 wires (and you only need to extend them but 5-10inches) and Run the patch harness (because you will most likely be running a SAFC) so that alone is worth the $190 for the patch).ECU Will Sit perfectly w/ No Worries about knock wiring etc.
i haven't even cranked mine yet but I should have it running this weekend.So who knows what other Issues are about to surface with mine.
I would document my entire build and swap, but with everyone on here it seems they would rather have SOMEONE else do thier swap for them(Granted that could be due to more things then 1).,and pay for thier repairs or installations so I will not do a Build or request a Sticky thread on the Absolute Must Haves for 1jz swaps and problems they could run into.
All in all I Agree with you 100% - It will All be for the most part trial and error.
With the money I've spent on my Swap I could have already had a US 2jzTTE with 5speed swap and Still money left over and running over 2 months ago.
the 1JZ is pretty limited on whats avail and its eaiser to get a 2JZ and 5speed swap.
ahhhhhhhhhhh,...ok I got it out.
Good luck to you sir and untill someone releases the GUIDE to 1JZ Swap in SC it will all be scattered info,mixed in w/ a bottomless pit of Issues that were never answered in thier Threads.
I will say - ALOT of info in this WHOLE Forum is pretty Dead ended.thats the 1 thing I hate about this board.
I've taken on what I believe is a Hard 1JZ swap (and really its not that bad),and thats Putting it into a SC400.No one has any real Dedicated to the SC400 and only limited SC300 that actually gives you ALL the info you need and what parts are needed.
even as far as Wiring harness'.
Everyone Says you have to extend it and blah,blah blah But that is Such a Crock.once again. - People send thier harness' and get ripped off and Pay $500-$600+ to have someone else extend it for no reason at all.
if you really want it (remove the Huge Black plastic Case that attaches to the inside of the Intake mani P.I.T.*** and Run the Wires taped/covered up only - that will give you about 4-6 inches of movement towards the pass side) Right extend maybe 25 wires (and you only need to extend them but 5-10inches) and Run the patch harness (because you will most likely be running a SAFC) so that alone is worth the $190 for the patch).ECU Will Sit perfectly w/ No Worries about knock wiring etc.
i haven't even cranked mine yet but I should have it running this weekend.So who knows what other Issues are about to surface with mine.
I would document my entire build and swap, but with everyone on here it seems they would rather have SOMEONE else do thier swap for them(Granted that could be due to more things then 1).,and pay for thier repairs or installations so I will not do a Build or request a Sticky thread on the Absolute Must Haves for 1jz swaps and problems they could run into.
All in all I Agree with you 100% - It will All be for the most part trial and error.
With the money I've spent on my Swap I could have already had a US 2jzTTE with 5speed swap and Still money left over and running over 2 months ago.
the 1JZ is pretty limited on whats avail and its eaiser to get a 2JZ and 5speed swap.
ahhhhhhhhhhh,...ok I got it out.
Good luck to you sir and untill someone releases the GUIDE to 1JZ Swap in SC it will all be scattered info,mixed in w/ a bottomless pit of Issues that were never answered in thier Threads.
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BINGO
I will say - ALOT of info in this WHOLE Forum is pretty Dead ended.thats the 1 thing I hate about this board.
I've taken on what I believe is a Hard 1JZ swap (and really its not that bad),and thats Putting it into a SC400.No one has any real Dedicated to the SC400 and only limited SC300 that actually gives you ALL the info you need and what parts are needed.
even as far as Wiring harness'.
Everyone Says you have to extend it and blah,blah blah But that is Such a Crock.once again. - People send thier harness' and get ripped off and Pay $500-$600+ to have someone else extend it for no reason at all.
if you really want it (remove the Huge Black plastic Case that attaches to the inside of the Intake mani P.I.T.*** and Run the Wires taped/covered up only - that will give you about 4-6 inches of movement towards the pass side) Right extend maybe 25 wires (and you only need to extend them but 5-10inches) and Run the patch harness (because you will most likely be running a SAFC) so that alone is worth the $190 for the patch).ECU Will Sit perfectly w/ No Worries about knock wiring etc.
i haven't even cranked mine yet but I should have it running this weekend.So who knows what other Issues are about to surface with mine.
I would document my entire build and swap, but with everyone on here it seems they would rather have SOMEONE else do thier swap for them(Granted that could be due to more things then 1).,and pay for thier repairs or installations so I will not do a Build or request a Sticky thread on the Absolute Must Haves for 1jz swaps and problems they could run into.
All in all I Agree with you 100% - It will All be for the most part trial and error.
With the money I've spent on my Swap I could have already had a US 2jzTTE with 5speed swap and Still money left over and running over 2 months ago.
the 1JZ is pretty limited on whats avail and its eaiser to get a 2JZ and 5speed swap.
ahhhhhhhhhhh,...ok I got it out.
Good luck to you sir and untill someone releases the GUIDE to 1JZ Swap in SC it will all be scattered info,mixed in w/ a bottomless pit of Issues that were never answered in thier Threads.
I will say - ALOT of info in this WHOLE Forum is pretty Dead ended.thats the 1 thing I hate about this board.
I've taken on what I believe is a Hard 1JZ swap (and really its not that bad),and thats Putting it into a SC400.No one has any real Dedicated to the SC400 and only limited SC300 that actually gives you ALL the info you need and what parts are needed.
even as far as Wiring harness'.
Everyone Says you have to extend it and blah,blah blah But that is Such a Crock.once again. - People send thier harness' and get ripped off and Pay $500-$600+ to have someone else extend it for no reason at all.
if you really want it (remove the Huge Black plastic Case that attaches to the inside of the Intake mani P.I.T.*** and Run the Wires taped/covered up only - that will give you about 4-6 inches of movement towards the pass side) Right extend maybe 25 wires (and you only need to extend them but 5-10inches) and Run the patch harness (because you will most likely be running a SAFC) so that alone is worth the $190 for the patch).ECU Will Sit perfectly w/ No Worries about knock wiring etc.
i haven't even cranked mine yet but I should have it running this weekend.So who knows what other Issues are about to surface with mine.
I would document my entire build and swap, but with everyone on here it seems they would rather have SOMEONE else do thier swap for them(Granted that could be due to more things then 1).,and pay for thier repairs or installations so I will not do a Build or request a Sticky thread on the Absolute Must Haves for 1jz swaps and problems they could run into.
All in all I Agree with you 100% - It will All be for the most part trial and error.
With the money I've spent on my Swap I could have already had a US 2jzTTE with 5speed swap and Still money left over and running over 2 months ago.
the 1JZ is pretty limited on whats avail and its eaiser to get a 2JZ and 5speed swap.
ahhhhhhhhhhh,...ok I got it out.
Good luck to you sir and untill someone releases the GUIDE to 1JZ Swap in SC it will all be scattered info,mixed in w/ a bottomless pit of Issues that were never answered in thier Threads.
By the way, there's another guy who is trying to build a 1JZ into SC400...or at least build a topic thread about the idea of the swap.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...00-thread.html
I came across this last night when I was trying to do more research. (Again More Research -.-).
I also came across this...
http://www.1jz.com/tech/docs/engine_manual/complete.swf
It's a gold mine, but the problem is it doesn't have the complete manual because the rest was in Japanese and hasn't been translated.
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I feel your pain Bro i went thru the same crap when when i was doing my Na-T with the distributor delete, couple guys i knew did the same conversion and they are always start new threads about their distributorless set up wouldn't help and wouldn't repond to my Pms i was straight up being ignore.
After a couple of research and talking to "Gixxer750ms" on SF i got it running the same night he even gave me his phone number in case i need to talk to him.
When people don't like to go into details about the mods, issues, what works and what doesn't stuff like that the other needs to know , people will always ask the same question.
But then again it's a couple of threads with alot of info on here,Some of the people are Lazy some don't know what to do.
I don't wanna get into to much details lol but if you have any question Bro you are welcome to PM ME anytime i don't know "everything" but i think i have enough info to help the community.
After a couple of research and talking to "Gixxer750ms" on SF i got it running the same night he even gave me his phone number in case i need to talk to him.
When people don't like to go into details about the mods, issues, what works and what doesn't stuff like that the other needs to know , people will always ask the same question.
But then again it's a couple of threads with alot of info on here,Some of the people are Lazy some don't know what to do.
I don't wanna get into to much details lol but if you have any question Bro you are welcome to PM ME anytime i don't know "everything" but i think i have enough info to help the community.
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[QUOTE=kanukem;5541159]https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...00-thread.html
QUOTE]
That thread is a joke.Not much of anything out of the "NORM" that he mentions Needing or having to do.That was the 1st thread I saw to atleast let me know someone has done it.
Once again,..just another Broken/incomplete Thread to add to the rest on here.Your right,thats the reason There are SOOO many Threads of the same thing,due to no one finishing stuff that They run into or have an issue with.
thanks though.
Unless its absolutly CUSTOM Wild Install like "V160 install on Beams 4cyl" will there MAYBE be a completed "ending" to the build/install.
QUOTE]
That thread is a joke.Not much of anything out of the "NORM" that he mentions Needing or having to do.That was the 1st thread I saw to atleast let me know someone has done it.
Once again,..just another Broken/incomplete Thread to add to the rest on here.Your right,thats the reason There are SOOO many Threads of the same thing,due to no one finishing stuff that They run into or have an issue with.
thanks though.
Unless its absolutly CUSTOM Wild Install like "V160 install on Beams 4cyl" will there MAYBE be a completed "ending" to the build/install.
#11
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from the start of my swap i wanted to document as much as i could, but the conditions i was in and no camera doesn't help. I KNOW a few of you guys are waiting for the mysterious starting issue/3k rpm problem, but im working with 2 members to confirm my facts before im posting. So far it's looking good, and now that i have better access to my car i can borrow a camera and get to snapping some shots on the solution...so stay tuned.
As for the 1JZ swap in general, it's NOT as easy as it first looks. Depending on where you got your engine, a lot of your parts are probably bad so take some extra time and set some extra money aside for surprise parts. I needed a few experienced techs for time and advice because not all the facts are out there. With the few threads out there for the swap, they're not totally complete with all the info they posted, leaving a lot of gaps to be filled with personal research. This thread is a good idea to fill those gaps.
The first info gap...or actually the misleading point that leads people to do the swap: it's not as easy as people think it is.
As for the 1JZ swap in general, it's NOT as easy as it first looks. Depending on where you got your engine, a lot of your parts are probably bad so take some extra time and set some extra money aside for surprise parts. I needed a few experienced techs for time and advice because not all the facts are out there. With the few threads out there for the swap, they're not totally complete with all the info they posted, leaving a lot of gaps to be filled with personal research. This thread is a good idea to fill those gaps.
The first info gap...or actually the misleading point that leads people to do the swap: it's not as easy as people think it is.
#12
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I think the transmissions are different between the 1UZ and the 1J/2J even if they are both four-speed autos. We've got an early model 4.0GT Limited so I'll check over the build plate to see what 'box code it has. Don't know if that'd make a difference in making the speedo work or not though.
Jose
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Here are a couples links here.
http://97supraturbo.com/
http://1jz.com/tech/docs/engine_manual/
http://www.suprawa.com/tech/95FSM/index.html
These are lot helpful site that i use from time to time.
http://97supraturbo.com/
http://1jz.com/tech/docs/engine_manual/
http://www.suprawa.com/tech/95FSM/index.html
These are lot helpful site that i use from time to time.
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Hey everyone, the motor is finally sitting in the car. I'm running into a couple of problems. Can anyone help me?
This is copied from the post I have in the performance section. I'm hoping it will help others with their swaps.
I have a couple of questions about a 1jz swap. I've spent days looking around for threads and posts on virtually every site but I haven't gotten a definite answer. This swap is an auto soarer 1jz and running a map ecu 2.
The car runs with the motor in but has a couple of issues with running. The first major problem is the high idle. It idles around 2000 and holds steady. I have checked for vacuum leaks on the throttle body by making an intake leakdown tester and putting in 15 lbs of pressure. The air slowly decreases but not due to any leaks in hoses or anything else. I searched around and discovered that it is sometimes due to the idle speed control valve (ISCV). The map ecu 2 is wired in and using map replacement mode so the air hose that normally goes to the map sensor now is hooked up to the piggyback which has its own sensor. I've already calibrated the ecu to idle correctly so the problem is not there. I've cleaned out the ISCV because sometimes it doesnt close all the way or open all the way and people have problems idling or turning on their car. The problem is the ISCV...How do I know? I took off the large air hose that goes to the ISCV and blocked it off. The car idles smoothly at a reduced rpm. I am also not receiving any boost when driving although my turbos are spooling and forcing air in. I believe that the air is leaking through the ISCV because it is completely open. The gauge tells me that I am only making enough air to reach zero and not even positive boost. The ISCV is controlled by the ECU through four grounds and two 12volt leads that ground sequentially to open and close the valve. I've tried testing the valve by running leads to the battery and then grounding it in order to test the valve but it only clicks. I'm assuming that the solenoid works but is not being controlled by the ECU. Could it possibly be my ECU? Even when my engine is warm for 20 minutes, it continues to idle at 2000. The MAP sensor on the piggyback reads a vacuum so it is working fine.
I'm not receiving any boost as stated before, I don't understand why. I've checked the intercooler pipes and they hold pressure fine when the throttle body is closed so I'm assuming that the system is working perfect.
Seeing as how the motor is auto going to a five speed. I've already cut the 3k wire on the body plug. I believe it was pin 10 on the white body plug.
My temp gauge soars when I turn on the car but I've already grounded the wire in pin 24 on the white body-side body plug as stated in one of the threads for the temp fix. I've tried bleeding the air out of the coolant system by jacking up the front and running the car without the radiator cap. It bleeds air in the beginning as it warms up but how do I know when it is finished? If it is finished, why is my temp gauge still so high?
My tach gauge isnt working either. I'm trying to avoid the resister in the back of my cluster so I bought the tach adapter 8910eis. I've tried wiring the black wire (tach signal wire) to the black wire on pin 1 on the small plug on the igniter and the red wire (12v) to the orange/black wire on pin 2 on the small plug of the igniter. What is left is the two green plug. Am I wiring it right or is it suppoesd to be installed another way? Can someone explain how they wired in their tach adapter?
I've checked my ecu for any leaking capacitors and couldn't find anything too bad. Could it be my ECU?
Is there any one in Los Angeles with a soarer 1jz that can let me borrow their ecu for 10 minutes so I can check to see if it is my ECU that is broken?
Is there any one in Los Angeles that can help me out with my problems?
Sorry for the long thread. I haven't found any answers from anyone. I hope maybe my problems can help people with their swaps in the future. Please help. Thanks guys.
--------
Btw, this is my other thread, I'm hoping to create a link/web of 1jz information so people can easily research for their swap
This is copied from the post I have in the performance section. I'm hoping it will help others with their swaps.
I have a couple of questions about a 1jz swap. I've spent days looking around for threads and posts on virtually every site but I haven't gotten a definite answer. This swap is an auto soarer 1jz and running a map ecu 2.
The car runs with the motor in but has a couple of issues with running. The first major problem is the high idle. It idles around 2000 and holds steady. I have checked for vacuum leaks on the throttle body by making an intake leakdown tester and putting in 15 lbs of pressure. The air slowly decreases but not due to any leaks in hoses or anything else. I searched around and discovered that it is sometimes due to the idle speed control valve (ISCV). The map ecu 2 is wired in and using map replacement mode so the air hose that normally goes to the map sensor now is hooked up to the piggyback which has its own sensor. I've already calibrated the ecu to idle correctly so the problem is not there. I've cleaned out the ISCV because sometimes it doesnt close all the way or open all the way and people have problems idling or turning on their car. The problem is the ISCV...How do I know? I took off the large air hose that goes to the ISCV and blocked it off. The car idles smoothly at a reduced rpm. I am also not receiving any boost when driving although my turbos are spooling and forcing air in. I believe that the air is leaking through the ISCV because it is completely open. The gauge tells me that I am only making enough air to reach zero and not even positive boost. The ISCV is controlled by the ECU through four grounds and two 12volt leads that ground sequentially to open and close the valve. I've tried testing the valve by running leads to the battery and then grounding it in order to test the valve but it only clicks. I'm assuming that the solenoid works but is not being controlled by the ECU. Could it possibly be my ECU? Even when my engine is warm for 20 minutes, it continues to idle at 2000. The MAP sensor on the piggyback reads a vacuum so it is working fine.
I'm not receiving any boost as stated before, I don't understand why. I've checked the intercooler pipes and they hold pressure fine when the throttle body is closed so I'm assuming that the system is working perfect.
Seeing as how the motor is auto going to a five speed. I've already cut the 3k wire on the body plug. I believe it was pin 10 on the white body plug.
My temp gauge soars when I turn on the car but I've already grounded the wire in pin 24 on the white body-side body plug as stated in one of the threads for the temp fix. I've tried bleeding the air out of the coolant system by jacking up the front and running the car without the radiator cap. It bleeds air in the beginning as it warms up but how do I know when it is finished? If it is finished, why is my temp gauge still so high?
My tach gauge isnt working either. I'm trying to avoid the resister in the back of my cluster so I bought the tach adapter 8910eis. I've tried wiring the black wire (tach signal wire) to the black wire on pin 1 on the small plug on the igniter and the red wire (12v) to the orange/black wire on pin 2 on the small plug of the igniter. What is left is the two green plug. Am I wiring it right or is it suppoesd to be installed another way? Can someone explain how they wired in their tach adapter?
I've checked my ecu for any leaking capacitors and couldn't find anything too bad. Could it be my ECU?
Is there any one in Los Angeles with a soarer 1jz that can let me borrow their ecu for 10 minutes so I can check to see if it is my ECU that is broken?
Is there any one in Los Angeles that can help me out with my problems?
Sorry for the long thread. I haven't found any answers from anyone. I hope maybe my problems can help people with their swaps in the future. Please help. Thanks guys.
--------
Btw, this is my other thread, I'm hoping to create a link/web of 1jz information so people can easily research for their swap
Last edited by kanukem; 08-22-10 at 10:44 PM. Reason: linking to other thread