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help with auto tt wiring

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Old 10-06-10, 11:49 AM
  #16  
stockhatch
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Oh, and IK1 pin 22 is related to the OD circuit. I dont know the full functionality of that circuit, so I cant say whether putting the car in L should energize it or not. I would start by verifying all the pins and colors between the gear indicator and IK1 are correct.

I am referencing Supra and Lexus wiring to verify colors vs pinouts, so bear with me and I will try to get you a full breakdown on the IK1 pins.
Old 10-06-10, 11:50 AM
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Do P, R and N light up correctly according to shifter position?
Old 10-06-10, 11:53 AM
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Are the wires on 14 and 16 solid, or do either of them have a stripe?
Old 10-06-10, 12:02 PM
  #19  
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pin 14 is dark green with gray marks. pin 16 is lime green with yellow. Weird thing is that pin 14 get the 12v when in D but its connected to pin 9 on ecu plug. Didnt you tell me that 2 is suppose to be connected to that? By the way the two pins were reversed before i made the correction.
Old 10-06-10, 12:04 PM
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this is the only diagram ive been able to find of the nsw
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...23parkneut.pdf

When i put the gear selector on 2 i get no voltage from pin 16. Pin 14 has 12v when its in D but its spliced into pin 9 of the e10 connector. Pin 9 is 2 not D.

Last edited by soarer13oy; 10-06-10 at 12:11 PM.
Old 10-06-10, 12:45 PM
  #21  
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Ok, colors are not going to match with the diagrams I have, so you will have to do it by pinouts alone. Here are all the diagrams you need:



Old 10-06-10, 12:46 PM
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Ok so i spliced the wire from pin 9 to pin 16 on ik1 and indicator light works fine now only thing is 2 doesnt light up because its not getting 12v when i put it in 2. Im not worried about that i just want it to drive right. Ima take it for a spin and report back.
Old 10-06-10, 02:28 PM
  #23  
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For some reason im getting a constant 6.9v from the supposedly 2 wire. What a nightmare....

Last edited by soarer13oy; 10-06-10 at 02:31 PM.
Old 10-06-10, 02:49 PM
  #24  
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You're going to have to start from the trans switch and work your way back to IK1 and the ECU.
Old 10-06-10, 03:34 PM
  #25  
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Screw it i unplugged the wire that kept giving me the 6.9v and it shifts perfectly find when im in D. Im more concered about my boost issues lol.
Old 10-06-10, 04:43 PM
  #26  
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LOL I hear ya. Dont feel bad, my tach refuses to work no matter what I do.
Old 10-06-10, 07:04 PM
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Mines was the same that how i burnt it. Cant wait for the one aligas sending me. I also have some ls400 calipers on the way, my damn boost problem is killing me though. If i go wot right away it will only boost 3-5 psi, but if i let it build boost i can boost 15psi no prob. Ive been working on this for a while without any results.

Last edited by soarer13oy; 10-06-10 at 07:10 PM.
Old 10-06-10, 07:17 PM
  #28  
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I actually fixed my tach. See the aristo wiring thread. Have you tried removing your boost controllers to see what it will do?
Old 10-06-10, 07:19 PM
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Thats what im going to do tomorrow. Ive replaced so many crap on it to try to get it to work. If i only had the money to go single lol. So you had to tap the ingnitor wire to get your tach to work?

Last edited by soarer13oy; 10-06-10 at 07:25 PM.
Old 10-07-10, 05:09 AM
  #30  
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Well, I tapped the igniter wire and it still wouldn't work. I was pissed! I eventually figured out that I had accidentally fed the tach out pin of the igniter with 12v My mistake! Anyhow, once I cut the voltage to that pin on the igniter, the tach started working. Long story short, mine was a self inflicted wiring issue. Yours may just work if you tap the igniter wire. Its the small black wire on pin 1 of the 4 pin igniter plug.


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