NEbiker10

iTrader: (1)

check the emergency fuel pump shut off switch

good2go

iTrader: (6)

Here; pillaged from another thread:

If you do have a CEL. Then do a diagnostics to see if its throwing any codes.


To retrieve codes, turn ignition on. DO NOT start engine.
Using a jumper wire or paper clip, connect terminals E1 and TE1 together either on
DLC1 or DLC2(diagnostics ports). Count number of flashes from Malfunction
Indicator Light (MIL).

If MIL flashes 2 times every second, system is functioning
properly (no codes present). This is known as a normal condition. If a
diagnostic code is displayed, first group of flashes will indicate
first digit of a 2-digit diagnostic code. After a 1.5 second delay,
second group of flashes will indicate second digit of diagnostic code. (Example would 2 flashes pause then 4 flashes would be 24 AIT sensor signal.)

If more than one code is stored, a 2.5 second delay will
occur between diagnostic codes. After all diagnostic codes have been
displayed, a 4.5 second delay will occur and then codes will be
repeated until jumper wire connecting terminals E1 and TE1 is
disconnected. Diagnostic codes will display from smallest to largest
number.

Identify and record diagnostic trouble codes. After
trouble codes are retrieved, remove jumper wire to exit Normal Mode.

ALL THE ERROR CODES FOR LEXUS AND WHAT THEY MEAN

1 Normal Condition.
2 Air Flow Meter signal.
3 Ignition signal.
4 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
5 Oxygen Sensor.
6 RPM signal (Crank Angle Pulse).
7 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
8 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
9 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
10 Starter signal.
11 Switch signal.
11 ECU/ECM.
12 Knock Control Sensor signal.
12 RPM signal.
13 Knock Control CPU (ECM).
13 RPM signal.
14 Turbocharger Pressure.
14 Ignition signal.
21 Oxygen Sensor.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
23 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
25 Air-Fuel Ratio Lean.
26 Air-Fuel Ratio Rich.
27 Sub Oxygen Sensor signal.
28 No. 2 Oxygen Sensor signal.
31 Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).
32 Air Flow Meter signal.
34 Turbocharger Pressure signal.
35 Turbocharger Pressure Sensor signal.
35 HAC Sensor signal.
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
42 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
43 Starter signal.
51 Switch signal.
52 Knock Sensor signal.
53 Knock Sensor signal.
54 Inter-cooler ECM signal.
71 EGR System.
72 Fuel Cut Solenoid signal.
78 Fuel Pump Control signal.
81 TCM Communication.
83 TCM Communication.
84 TCM Communication.
85 TCM Communication.

trancuongv

iTrader: (3)

Here you go. Did a quick search in google.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es3...ght-codes.html

SC51

iTrader: (3)

^^ Thank alot guys.

So I did the test and the CEL display just stays lit constant with ign on. And thats with or w/o the jumper wire in???

I'm pretty sure the CEL light is wired rite only one wire 6(W) Malfunction indicator light.

FireCode

iTrader: (1)

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-4...n-curious.html
http://www.troublecodes.net/Lexus/

SC51

iTrader: (3)

Opened up ECU and inspected, looked mint.

Also when I was tearing it apart I noticed my timing belt looked skinnier, then noticed all this debris under the cam gears looks like the belts been rubbing on something. Aso its pushed all the way towards the back of the gear. Anyone had this happen?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

I have heard of that happening before, and I think the guy ended up replacing the timing belt tensioner and crank gear to resolve it.

If there are issues with the crank gear, it is quite possible that all your troubles are related to it, the star, and the crank sensor.

If the belt is flapping around in there as its getting chewed, it could strike the crank sensor and trash it.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Oh, and if the star broke off, that would explain the belt moving and getting eaten along with no fire.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Do I also remember correctly that you had a hard time getting the crank gear back on and had to hammer on it a bit? I may be getting my threads mixed up though lol.

FireCode

iTrader: (1)

is the debris shavings of rubber? When my timing belt went, a bearing had seized up causing the belt to be drug across the seized bearing. Rubber shavings everywhere.

SC51

iTrader: (3)

Its no bearing my engines turns over nicely. The belt just rubs on the back side (facing engine) I'm not sure what its been rubbing on, eh just another thing i'll have to look at.

scfou

iTrader: (3)

I'm almost 100% sure it's one of the pipes from the intercooler. Just by inspecting or even trying to move the clamps won't justify the problem. Check the bottom pipes as well and i'd tighten every hose clamp again. It has to be. I think you are wasting too much time checking other things.

SC_coupe

My Soarer randomly died on me and wouldn't start, similar to what you described in your original post. Turned out to be a vacuum hose that was cracked. I was convinced nothing was cracked but my shop looked for about an hour and found it. Double check its nothing to do with vacuum lines, or the IC piping. Like scfou said, I wasted a bunch of time checking other things when it was really quite simple.

Good luck.

SC51

iTrader: (3)

Thanks , I checked them seal pretty well, I'll double check tho, as for vac lines there all new. Not much I can do tho waiting for new coil connectors to come in.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

The belt usually sits more back on the cam gears but shouldn't rub really under normal conditions