Sad morning.
12-02-10, 01:48 PM
#31
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Ive had ic pipes pop off and i was still able to drive the car with no problems other than boosting. Ive had vacuum lines come off but that would raise my idle.
12-02-10, 07:35 PM
#32
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I'm almost 100% sure it's one of the pipes from the intercooler. Just by inspecting or even trying to move the clamps won't justify the problem. Check the bottom pipes as well and i'd tighten every hose clamp again. It has to be. I think you are wasting too much time checking other things.
I don't get this post at all. How is an IC pipe gonna affect the timing belt. Were you thinking about the FAN belt maybe?
12-02-10, 08:54 PM
#33
good2go
Quote:
Originally Posted by scfou View Post
I'm almost 100% sure it's one of the pipes from the intercooler. Just by inspecting or even trying to move the clamps won't justify the problem. Check the bottom pipes as well and i'd tighten every hose clamp again. It has to be. I think you are wasting too much time checking other things.
I don't get this post at all. How is an IC pipe gonna affect the timing belt. Were you thinking about the FAN belt maybe?
Quote:
Originally Posted by scfou View Post
I'm almost 100% sure it's one of the pipes from the intercooler. Just by inspecting or even trying to move the clamps won't justify the problem. Check the bottom pipes as well and i'd tighten every hose clamp again. It has to be. I think you are wasting too much time checking other things.
I don't get this post at all. How is an IC pipe gonna affect the timing belt. Were you thinking about the FAN belt maybe?
once the wires and plugs come in and I get the starting issue solved I'll find the culprit to the timing belt
Same thing smell fuel, plugs wont spark at all. Time to go to the store and get a volt/ohm meter since mines broken.
12-12-10, 10:30 AM
#38
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maybe
just throwing this out there. but could it be the star thing on the gear behind the crank pulley. if it has came loose then the crank sensor isnt gonna be working correctly.
Last edited by SpiderN9NE; 12-13-10 at 02:15 AM.
12-12-10, 11:25 AM
#39
Just Fyi-
Be very careful of the ignition coils when the car is running, if they arc and hit you, you can be killed in an instant from the voltage they are putting out. Pulling the connectors while the car is running to test a difference in idle is quite dangerous.
Last edited by RyanV; 12-12-10 at 11:35 AM.
12-12-10, 12:31 PM
#41
I dont think its your coils man. For enough coils to go bad at once to make it not start at all would be very unlikely. I would be more inclined to suspect crank sensor as I mentioned before, especially since you suspect the timing belt is rubbing on something.
That would be the first thing I did, would be to pull the lower timing cover, and check out all of the timing mechanicals.
You may see the obvious cause of your no-start right then and there. If everything turns out to be fine timing-wise, then check the crank sensor. Also check both cam sensors, and then if all that checks out, look at igniter and ecu.
That would be the first thing I did, would be to pull the lower timing cover, and check out all of the timing mechanicals.
You may see the obvious cause of your no-start right then and there. If everything turns out to be fine timing-wise, then check the crank sensor. Also check both cam sensors, and then if all that checks out, look at igniter and ecu.
12-12-10, 01:47 PM
#42
RyanV
no thats not right, if there's no code stored it should constantly flash. you sure you had a wire well enough stuck into E1 & TE1 of the diag port?
Just Fyi-
Be very careful of the ignition coils when the car is running, if they arc and hit you, you can be killed in an instant from the voltage they are putting out. Pulling the connectors while the car is running to test a difference in idle is quite dangerous.
no thats not right, if there's no code stored it should constantly flash. you sure you had a wire well enough stuck into E1 & TE1 of the diag port?
Just Fyi-
Be very careful of the ignition coils when the car is running, if they arc and hit you, you can be killed in an instant from the voltage they are putting out. Pulling the connectors while the car is running to test a difference in idle is quite dangerous.
stockhatch I dont think its your coils man. For enough coils to go bad at once to make it not start at all would be very unlikely. I would be more inclined to suspect crank sensor as I mentioned before, especially since you suspect the timing belt is rubbing on something.
That would be the first thing I did, would be to pull the lower timing cover, and check out all of the timing mechanicals.
You may see the obvious cause of your no-start right then and there. If everything turns out to be fine timing-wise, then check the crank sensor. Also check both cam sensors, and then if all that checks out, look at igniter and ecu.
That would be the first thing I did, would be to pull the lower timing cover, and check out all of the timing mechanicals.
You may see the obvious cause of your no-start right then and there. If everything turns out to be fine timing-wise, then check the crank sensor. Also check both cam sensors, and then if all that checks out, look at igniter and ecu.
12-15-10, 01:25 PM
#44
So I ohmed out the crank sensor it was 1.86K so that checks out ok.
Do you mean like the wire was pulling out of the plug? I checked the pin and it looked to be there still.
quickGS300 Check the wire at pin 58B, It's IGF i had issue with that wire car won't start or will just shut off and won't start.