SC51

iTrader: (3)

^ Ok its worth a shot, where does the other end of that wire go, to the ignitor?
How many volts should it be reading while cranking?

SpiderN9NE

iTrader: (8)

i was referring the the crank gear behind the pulley. if the star on it has become disconnected the crank sensor has nothing to read regardless if thats working or not. but i can understand not wanting to take all that apart until you check other things.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

it goes from the ignitor to the ecu. I'm not sure the proper way to check this with a voltmeter, it fires a pulse everytime a coil is fired, so it should be going from 0 to some voltage back and forth rapidly. IF the IGF is not returning this signal to the ecu (means your coils are not firing properly), the ecu will shut off the injectors so you do not flood the engine under a no spark condition.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Well said that's exactly what it does.

Just wiggle the wire back and forth it's a red with yellow.

SC51

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the help guys So I got a day off tomarrow I'll first

1, Check ohms of cam sensors
2, Try the wiggle wire technique
3, See if I can get a signal from IGF

If that doesn't work

4, Start taking apart timing assemble because obv somethings not right down there because of belt rubbing. Hopefully I'll find star detached. If all is good, replace ignitor?

And might as well re torque head and get new t-belt

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

If the car starts you should definitely remove the upper timing belt cover and look down there with a flashlight.

This does sound like it could be that the star has detached and is contacting the belt possibly.

If that is the case you can have the star tack welded back on, then you grind the welds down.

Good luck man!

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

100% Correct i did the same on my 1JZ. It's the crank signal pick up.

SC51

iTrader: (3)

So today I checked

Cam sensors 1- 1,181k ohms, 2- 1,190k ohms, so those were good. Then I tried the wiggling wires while starting and that didn't work. So I started taking timing covers etc off, noticed the belt was soo far back, stuck my finger down there and I can spin the star gear...it came loose

So I'm guessing thats the culprit time to order a greddy belt and maybe another new front seal.

Heres a couple pics

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Well at least you know for sure what the problem is now

good2go

iTrader: (6)

May I make the simple suggestion that you just buy the blue Gates racing belt instead of that overpriced, rebadged item and call it a day . . unless you are just looking for some bling for your car's spec sheet


btw, it's #T215RB and it's < $60

SC51

iTrader: (3)

^ Thanks ya thats actually what I'm going with just couldn't think of the name

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

This what distroyed mine. i used a puller to pull the gear off and replace the crank seal, i forgot to remove the little bracket will hex head on the driver side it's there to keep the gear from coming off the crank.
And the bracket just ring just snapped off the gear i just took it out and hit it with a hammer and i never had a problem with it for 2 years.
Just get it tack welded and should be fine.

The Gates belt will do great don't waste your money on Greddy or HKS belt because the belt is originally made by Gates they just put their label on it and sell it for $175.00

SC51

iTrader: (3)

Damn so yours destroyed the bracket? I'm not sure if mine is messed up yet, I mean once I weld it theres no need for the bracket rite?

Pipe

Okay so i pulled my motor out my car and took it apart so this is what ive found sorry for the blurry pics the Creamy look came from the water when i power washed it it actually more silverish brown shattered pieces of metal all over #4 had the "knock" the bearing was completely gone

SC51

iTrader: (3)

...sorry to hear about your issue. I'm not sure if you posted on the wrong thread or something. But you should address your issue on your own post.

Don't thread jack