Low boost, low budget 1UZ single turbo setup
#16
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I like thought processes that don't usually fall in line with the basic ideas. This has, however, been kicked around a few times on a few different boards, and several times here on CL. If you don't mind, I would like to throw my hat into the ring and add my .02 and see if it helps out a bit. The deal with Saab is that both banks have turbos, so essentially they both have similar exhaust back pressures, whereas an NA and FI bank will have 2 totally different pressures causing very different operating conditions. The spark and fuel timing events will all vary greatly depending on the usage as well. The difference being that a healthy NA motor loves timing, and a fire breathing FI engine needs to retard the timing in order to prevent detonation as boost pressure starts to build. This is just school for thought, but basically you would need to have two different ignition setups or program a standalone to add timing for the NA bank and remove timing for the FI bank.
Like someone mentioned above, it's like putting on super side wheels on the rear, but running spares up front. Unless your drag racing and other rare instances, the setup is practically useless.
My thought is that if your going to the trouble to build a single manifold to feed into a small single, you may as well pipe the opposite side manifold into the same turbo and make a true single turbo. This way all cylinders are under the same amount of pressure, heat, and operating range. I really think you'll have a tough time feeding the 1UZ anywhere close to the 6,500 redline with a 2L turbo.
Edit: The early 1UZ engines have the strongest factory rods, which were forged from powder. It's no secret that they aren't super strong, but no reason why the shouldn't hold up to 12psi of boost with a good tune, in fact SteveChumo is running 12psi on stock rods as of last time I checked. If your running factory electronics, around 7psi is the limit, but with ample fuel and spark, and a good tune, this can easily be raised. I am doing a single 61mm T3, and I don't start to make boost until about 2,000 and at full boost above 3,500. Your going to need every bit of RPM range you can get if your only spinning a T3/4 with one bank.
Like someone mentioned above, it's like putting on super side wheels on the rear, but running spares up front. Unless your drag racing and other rare instances, the setup is practically useless.
My thought is that if your going to the trouble to build a single manifold to feed into a small single, you may as well pipe the opposite side manifold into the same turbo and make a true single turbo. This way all cylinders are under the same amount of pressure, heat, and operating range. I really think you'll have a tough time feeding the 1UZ anywhere close to the 6,500 redline with a 2L turbo.
Edit: The early 1UZ engines have the strongest factory rods, which were forged from powder. It's no secret that they aren't super strong, but no reason why the shouldn't hold up to 12psi of boost with a good tune, in fact SteveChumo is running 12psi on stock rods as of last time I checked. If your running factory electronics, around 7psi is the limit, but with ample fuel and spark, and a good tune, this can easily be raised. I am doing a single 61mm T3, and I don't start to make boost until about 2,000 and at full boost above 3,500. Your going to need every bit of RPM range you can get if your only spinning a T3/4 with one bank.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; 12-15-10 at 01:28 PM.
#17
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actually the timing necessary will be very close to the same because both banks will be forced induction, they are connected to the same intake manifold getting boost off of the single turbo. the only difference is the exhaust back pressure on the turbo header will be greater than on the non-turbo header.
the whole 1 n/a bank and 1 turbo bank thing i was suggesting a few posts ago i probably shouldn't have because it doesn't make any sense unless there were individual intake manifolds for each side of the motor. I think its safe to say that was a dumb idea, cause who would go out of their way to do something as silly as that.
Now what the OP is suggesting isn't a silly idea, its widely known you can trade off spool for max boost, so if we limit the max boost we want to run via choosing a smaller turbo we should get better spool. The question is will the increased spool from the smaller turbo outweigh the decrease in spool from using half the banks. even if it doesn't the question is how much slower will it spool in the real world.
Thats basically why I don't think the OP is going to be using a 61mm turbo, thats sort of huge for 2L of displacement looking for 10 psi. I have a 61mm on my 2JZ and you are right it takes a bit to spool it up, but that turbo is meant for much more than 10 psi.
the whole 1 n/a bank and 1 turbo bank thing i was suggesting a few posts ago i probably shouldn't have because it doesn't make any sense unless there were individual intake manifolds for each side of the motor. I think its safe to say that was a dumb idea, cause who would go out of their way to do something as silly as that.
Now what the OP is suggesting isn't a silly idea, its widely known you can trade off spool for max boost, so if we limit the max boost we want to run via choosing a smaller turbo we should get better spool. The question is will the increased spool from the smaller turbo outweigh the decrease in spool from using half the banks. even if it doesn't the question is how much slower will it spool in the real world.
Thats basically why I don't think the OP is going to be using a 61mm turbo, thats sort of huge for 2L of displacement looking for 10 psi. I have a 61mm on my 2JZ and you are right it takes a bit to spool it up, but that turbo is meant for much more than 10 psi.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-15-10 at 02:49 PM.
#19
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Keep in mind that only one side of the exhaust is flowing into the turbo, so it won't pose much of a restriction at high rpm if the turbo is capible of flowing 300 hp....
That one side is only going to flow 150 hp worth of air tops...right???
I'm gonna talk to my man Bart Connelly and get a Ghetto donor car that i can fab this up on.
Who else is doing Mega Squirt right now Bartle Doo??? You get a ms3 yet, who'd you source it from?
Any one make a PnP MS for the sc400 yet?
That one side is only going to flow 150 hp worth of air tops...right???
I'm gonna talk to my man Bart Connelly and get a Ghetto donor car that i can fab this up on.
Who else is doing Mega Squirt right now Bartle Doo??? You get a ms3 yet, who'd you source it from?
Any one make a PnP MS for the sc400 yet?
Last edited by UpInTheLex; 12-15-10 at 05:31 PM.
#21
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A blurb about Saabs one bank turbo engine...
The new Saab 9-5 is the first car in the world to be equipped with an asymmetric turbocharging system. This new engine concept uses the Saab 3.0L V6 engine equipped with one turbocharger mounted on the front cylinder bank, driven by exhaust gases from only those three cylinders. The single highly-responsive Garrett GT17 turbocharger delivers compressed air to all six cylinders in both cylinder banks. Combined with a boost pressure which reaches only 3.6 psi (0.25 bar), this technology allows a patented boost control system via the throttle control which eliminates the need for a wastegate. The turbocharger housing is integrated into the exhaust manifold instead of being a separate casting, for even greater efficiencies
The advanced 24-valve 3.0L Turbo V6 engine uses a narrow angle of 54 degrees between the cylinder banks and has been specifically developed for the new 9-5. It uses a short fixed-length inlet pipe system instead of the variable inlet manifold (VIM) used without the turbo on the Saab 9000.
The asymmetric turbo system increases peak torque by 15 percent—to 229 lb.-ft. at only 2,100 rpm—improving the useful performance and reducing passing times. The higher torque also allows longer gearing, which improves fuel economy and reduces engine noise at speed. Maximum power is 200 hp at 5,000 rpm.
![](http://www.catturbo.cn/Images/CAR/SAAB/SAAB%20turbocharger%20TC-GT1549SAAB452194-000.jpg)
Compressors map for that turbo:
![](http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/attachments/140552-1.jpg)
Hey say what you want about Saabs, they've been doing the turbo thing a long time. The old two stroke V4, in the old time 96 is pretty wicked.
The new Saab 9-5 is the first car in the world to be equipped with an asymmetric turbocharging system. This new engine concept uses the Saab 3.0L V6 engine equipped with one turbocharger mounted on the front cylinder bank, driven by exhaust gases from only those three cylinders. The single highly-responsive Garrett GT17 turbocharger delivers compressed air to all six cylinders in both cylinder banks. Combined with a boost pressure which reaches only 3.6 psi (0.25 bar), this technology allows a patented boost control system via the throttle control which eliminates the need for a wastegate. The turbocharger housing is integrated into the exhaust manifold instead of being a separate casting, for even greater efficiencies
The advanced 24-valve 3.0L Turbo V6 engine uses a narrow angle of 54 degrees between the cylinder banks and has been specifically developed for the new 9-5. It uses a short fixed-length inlet pipe system instead of the variable inlet manifold (VIM) used without the turbo on the Saab 9000.
The asymmetric turbo system increases peak torque by 15 percent—to 229 lb.-ft. at only 2,100 rpm—improving the useful performance and reducing passing times. The higher torque also allows longer gearing, which improves fuel economy and reduces engine noise at speed. Maximum power is 200 hp at 5,000 rpm.
![](http://www.catturbo.cn/Images/CAR/SAAB/SAAB%20turbocharger%20TC-GT1549SAAB452194-000.jpg)
Compressors map for that turbo:
![](http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/attachments/140552-1.jpg)
Hey say what you want about Saabs, they've been doing the turbo thing a long time. The old two stroke V4, in the old time 96 is pretty wicked.
Last edited by UpInTheLex; 12-15-10 at 08:20 PM.
#22
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most any engine can run even when complete cylinders are not firing at all, because everything is timed off of the cam/crank sensor, the motor will always fire at the right time, regardless of any power variance from cylinder to cylinder. obviously if the cylinder cannot maintain/increase the momentum of the engine it will feel all rough and jerky, but putting a turbo on isnt gonna cause anything near that.
oh and that saab info is pretty interesting, I take back what i said earlier.
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#23
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I just finished mine. I bought mine from DIYAutotune as well. I built my own with the v3.0 & MS3x cards so I can run sequential spark and fuel. My setup is going to be using the speed density, running the factory 12 tooth wheel, LS1 CNPs, 36# injectors, E85 w/ switchable MAPs using the Flex fuel sensor. I was originally going to use the Ford EDIS8 setup, but I like this setup a bit better. My goal is to push 350rwhp on a factory 92' 1UZFE NA-T.
If you want to check out my build, here it is.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ght-it-21.html
#24
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I just finished mine. I bought mine from DIYAutotune as well. I built my own with the v3.0 & MS3x cards so I can run sequential spark and fuel. My setup is going to be using the speed density, running the factory 12 tooth wheel, LS1 CNPs, 36# injectors, E85 w/ switchable MAPs using the Flex fuel sensor. I was originally going to use the Ford EDIS8 setup, but I like this setup a bit better. My goal is to push 350rwhp on a factory 92' 1UZFE NA-T.
If you want to check out my build, here it is.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ght-it-21.html
Edit: Just realized you probably haven't installed it yet. lol
Last edited by BartleDoo; 12-16-10 at 05:23 PM.
#25
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wow looks good with the MS units. so you just wire those into a connector that plugs into the factory harness, or do you actually cut the ecu plug off and go one by one?
If you are using E85 I suspect you could run alot more than 350rwhp, alot less detonation to worry about. I like your setup, I am not a fan of the EDIS either.
If you are using E85 I suspect you could run alot more than 350rwhp, alot less detonation to worry about. I like your setup, I am not a fan of the EDIS either.
#26
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Please tell me how you wired the factory IAC valve (if you used it) from MS3 notation to the factory notation (1A-ISC?,1B-ISC?,etc). I got tired of messing with it and have a ghetto idle setup for the time being. I thought I had two different wiring schemes and one would work but I was wrong.
Edit: Just realized you probably haven't installed it yet. lol
Edit: Just realized you probably haven't installed it yet. lol
wow looks good with the MS units. so you just wire those into a connector that plugs into the factory harness, or do you actually cut the ecu plug off and go one by one?
If you are using E85 I suspect you could run alot more than 350rwhp, alot less detonation to worry about. I like your setup, I am not a fan of the EDIS either.
If you are using E85 I suspect you could run alot more than 350rwhp, alot less detonation to worry about. I like your setup, I am not a fan of the EDIS either.
Last edited by 3UZFTE; 12-17-10 at 12:44 PM.
#27
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Haha, so I'm not alone... I was going to set it up at a 4 wire IAC, but found that there are 6 wires instead. I searched and found that some people are able to have success wiring up a 6 wire IAC, I hadn't seen the 1UZ being done. With that being said, I am for the time (in my head) just going to not run one, and crack the throttle plate open a bit until I can get my hands on a remote IAC setup to allow some ease of installation. Some dude sells a pretty sweet CNC'd block that allows the use of a Jeep IAC and some rubber hose. I think that if you are keeping the OE ecu, you should basically keep it to run the IAC, which is my back up plan if adjusting the screw doesn't work. Thoughts?
EDIT: No I won't lol. It wont work without RPM input and other sensor inputs...I don't think.
#28
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thats a nice way to do it, sounds like it should work pretty reliably.
different engine, same problem.
If I turn the boost up more ill risk breaking my w58.
hopefully i will get rid of that problem soon and upgrade, maybe when it gets warmer outside.
on my aem options for the idle valve it has 4 steppers for idle. i think our cars use a similar valve.
different engine, same problem.
If I turn the boost up more ill risk breaking my w58.
hopefully i will get rid of that problem soon and upgrade, maybe when it gets warmer outside.
on my aem options for the idle valve it has 4 steppers for idle. i think our cars use a similar valve.
#29
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How about just running a remote setup back where the resonators would be? There is a huge recess in the floorpan where the resonators were on my car. You could fit small twins in the cavities very easily. Then just wire up a sump pump for oil return, run the col piping and rock out. Super sleeper too, who would look under the back seat for turbos?
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#30
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^^^ you mean doing something like this, except an SC instead of a 2uz Landcruiser.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/100_trubo_avo.htm
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/100_trubo_avo.htm