How to: Trunk Lift Support w/ pics...
02-19-11, 10:10 AM
#271
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: CO
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Supports I bought, Mighty lift from autozone, same as Strong arm, didnt come with the ball joint bolt.
I had to position the OEM strut on cement and hit the ball joint bolt at the right angle to get it out of the old support(no damage to the bolt). The rest was easy.
I guess whatever works...
I had to position the OEM strut on cement and hit the ball joint bolt at the right angle to get it out of the old support(no damage to the bolt). The rest was easy.
I guess whatever works...
02-25-11, 08:25 PM
#272
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trunk Strut Ball Joints - Ugh
I just replaced my 1992 SC400 trunk struts. Ordered new ones online, about $36 for two. Unfortunately they did not come with new ball joint nuts, and the factory original ball joint nuts were manufactured into the strut (ie., not removeable). 
HOWEVER, instead of trying to figure out where I could buy new ball joint nuts (which I am sure would be a pain), I decided to try and cut the originals out with a hack saw. (I had not seent the above post regarding knocking them out with a hammer). Worked just fine (assuming you have a vice and a good hack saw blade). Cut diagonally across the ball (just deep enough to where you cut through the socket, but not too deep), then pry the socket apart with a chisel and hammer. Snapped right into the new struts.
NOTE: The inside of the ball joint has a very small retaining clip (noticed after removal). Not sure if you could remove that clip from the ball joint socket initially and simply pull them out. It's pretty darn small though...you would probably need a magnifying glass to see it in all the grease (at least my eyes probably wouldn't let me see it unaided).
HOWEVER, instead of trying to figure out where I could buy new ball joint nuts (which I am sure would be a pain), I decided to try and cut the originals out with a hack saw. (I had not seent the above post regarding knocking them out with a hammer). Worked just fine (assuming you have a vice and a good hack saw blade). Cut diagonally across the ball (just deep enough to where you cut through the socket, but not too deep), then pry the socket apart with a chisel and hammer. Snapped right into the new struts.
NOTE: The inside of the ball joint has a very small retaining clip (noticed after removal). Not sure if you could remove that clip from the ball joint socket initially and simply pull them out. It's pretty darn small though...you would probably need a magnifying glass to see it in all the grease (at least my eyes probably wouldn't let me see it unaided).
Last edited by DenverD; 02-25-11 at 08:30 PM.
03-12-11, 08:50 AM
#274
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
idk if it was covered. i did this today and i was a 1/4 inch short...
YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE BUMPERS ON THE TRUNK ARM!!! they are on the arm to keep the trunk frame from hitting the body, its a small rubber/plastic bumper. took me about 20 minutes till i saw it, i felt dumb.. but hey.. i have a WORKING trunk now!
YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE BUMPERS ON THE TRUNK ARM!!! they are on the arm to keep the trunk frame from hitting the body, its a small rubber/plastic bumper. took me about 20 minutes till i saw it, i felt dumb.. but hey.. i have a WORKING trunk now!
03-15-11, 05:43 PM
#275
idk if it was covered. i did this today and i was a 1/4 inch short...
YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE BUMPERS ON THE TRUNK ARM!!! they are on the arm to keep the trunk frame from hitting the body, its a small rubber/plastic bumper. took me about 20 minutes till i saw it, i felt dumb.. but hey.. i have a WORKING trunk now!
YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE BUMPERS ON THE TRUNK ARM!!! they are on the arm to keep the trunk frame from hitting the body, its a small rubber/plastic bumper. took me about 20 minutes till i saw it, i felt dumb.. but hey.. i have a WORKING trunk now!
And for the record, the trunk flew open with just the release button for the first few times but once the strut settled in, it no longer opened by itself.
03-15-11, 07:48 PM
#276
idk if it was covered. i did this today and i was a 1/4 inch short...
YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE BUMPERS ON THE TRUNK ARM!!! they are on the arm to keep the trunk frame from hitting the body, its a small rubber/plastic bumper. took me about 20 minutes till i saw it, i felt dumb.. but hey.. i have a WORKING trunk now!
YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE BUMPERS ON THE TRUNK ARM!!! they are on the arm to keep the trunk frame from hitting the body, its a small rubber/plastic bumper. took me about 20 minutes till i saw it, i felt dumb.. but hey.. i have a WORKING trunk now!
04-13-11, 11:18 AM
#277
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For those of you who need new trunk lift supports, I just installed one and I took some pictures. I'm using the instructions that PERRYinLA posted a while back. It would be nice to have a friend help you hold the trunk or just use a stick...I used a bat 
BTW, I bought mine at www.rockauto.com It came out to $23.25 including shipping for one.
BTW, I bought mine at www.rockauto.com It came out to $23.25 including shipping for one.
05-30-11, 05:50 PM
#278
Driver
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Alberta
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Like most things in life, it was definitely easier on the second strut.
Make sure 100% that you have a 12mm Wrench, I heated mine up with a lighter for a minute or so and the bolt came out very easily.
Finally, the trunk will no longer decapitate me! Except now, my trunk shoots up rather violently, hopefully it will relax a bit with time.
Make sure 100% that you have a 12mm Wrench, I heated mine up with a lighter for a minute or so and the bolt came out very easily.
Finally, the trunk will no longer decapitate me! Except now, my trunk shoots up rather violently, hopefully it will relax a bit with time.
05-30-11, 06:03 PM
#279
Like most things in life, it was definitely easier on the second strut.
Make sure 100% that you have a 12mm Wrench, I heated mine up with a lighter for a minute or so and the bolt came out very easily.
Finally, the trunk will no longer decapitate me! Except now, my trunk shoots up rather violently, hopefully it will relax a bit with time.
Make sure 100% that you have a 12mm Wrench, I heated mine up with a lighter for a minute or so and the bolt came out very easily.
Finally, the trunk will no longer decapitate me! Except now, my trunk shoots up rather violently, hopefully it will relax a bit with time.
07-27-11, 10:44 PM
#280
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My friend changed my trunk lift supports tonight. I got the strong arms for spoiler, even though I have NO spoiler on my 1993 sc300. It only took about 15 to 20 minutes total. I had read all 19 pages of this thread, so I knew how to do it, even though I had my friend do the work, since he has all the tools. He was able to get the ball joint with locktite thing off without heating it. It took a lot of strenght but it finally moved without heating it up. After doing the first one, he got the second one off instantly. My trunk now pops up with a lot of force and takes a lot of force to close it. JUST EXACTLY PERFECT. I have been dealing with broken trunk supports for years now. I am happy to have fixed this problem, and the information in this thread was amazing. Thanks to everyone, especially the photos and tips! AWESOME
09-15-11, 07:44 PM
#281
Pole Position
I am going to a local body shop tomorrow to have them install the ones I acquired. Even with this great thread I don't have the tools (or skills) to attempt it myself and I have used this shop before and they are quite experienced.
Will update after it it is complete....
Will update after it it is complete....
09-16-11, 09:56 PM
#282
Pole Position
Okay, best decision ever to go to the body shop to install the new struts on the trunk.
Getting the old trunk lifts off were not a huge problem. He had to cut through the ball to get the original ball joint bolts free so they could be re-installed (as the ones I got did not come with a new bolt).
The clips on the other end looked nothing like the pictures in the first several posts nor were they secured with the little cap; the original lifts only used the clip and the new clips were different; so, they improvised and used some "star" caps to keep the lift on the support pin. The ball joint end required the clip around the ball to be kept open as it was too tight to force onto the old ball joint bolt.
The tip about removing the bumpers is key; only one bumper was in place on the passenger side lift but the other was found in the tire well. After some effort both sides were finally in place, bumpers restored, and everything works!!!!
An hour total.
Image 1: Work in progress.
Image 2: Cutting the old struts to get the ball joint bolts.
Image 3: Hey, it works !!!!!
Image 4: Finally remove the stick that has been holding up the trunk for several years.
Getting the old trunk lifts off were not a huge problem. He had to cut through the ball to get the original ball joint bolts free so they could be re-installed (as the ones I got did not come with a new bolt).
The clips on the other end looked nothing like the pictures in the first several posts nor were they secured with the little cap; the original lifts only used the clip and the new clips were different; so, they improvised and used some "star" caps to keep the lift on the support pin. The ball joint end required the clip around the ball to be kept open as it was too tight to force onto the old ball joint bolt.
The tip about removing the bumpers is key; only one bumper was in place on the passenger side lift but the other was found in the tire well. After some effort both sides were finally in place, bumpers restored, and everything works!!!!
An hour total.
Image 1: Work in progress.
Image 2: Cutting the old struts to get the ball joint bolts.
Image 3: Hey, it works !!!!!
Image 4: Finally remove the stick that has been holding up the trunk for several years.
Last edited by Duck05; 09-16-11 at 10:08 PM.
01-04-12, 05:55 PM
#283
here are some pictures of step 4 if you dont understand
this is what the clip looks like on the lower turnk support (towards the seat)
this is what it should look like once u pry it open. i used a lond thin flat head to pry it open
this is what the clip looks like on the lower turnk support (towards the seat)
this is what it should look like once u pry it open. i used a lond thin flat head to pry it open
01-08-12, 11:06 AM
#284
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No more 5 Iron for Trunk Support
I just got my 92 sc400 back from my Dad who's had it for the last 7 years. After reading the step by step on the trunk support replacement I ordered the Strongarm for the SC with the spoiler off ebay. Paid about $30 for the pair. My neighbor and I took the old ones out and installed the new ones in about 20 minutes. Thanks to all who posted the instructions, especially the step by step guides. It really helped. Now I can toss the ancient 5 iron Dad was using for the trunk. It actually pops all teh way up on its own no problems
01-13-12, 12:01 PM
#285
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: ca
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
These instructions are WONDERFUL!! My daughter and I (both, able-bodied DIY women!) were able to get the driver's side one replaced, but we are having a hell of a time with the passenger side, due to the bolt being extra tough, and the wires & stuff in the way limiting the space in which to even turn the wrench. Plus we're starting to strip the bolt. I wonder if it would be better to just try and take the strut off of the ball joint somehow, and leave the bolt in place for the replacement strut. Any trick to this?