JZ Swap & Na to Turbo questions....
12-28-10, 10:54 AM
#16
I think its a wash.
With the 1JZ, swap the motor set in, get a piggyback, single kit, and fuel. You should get 400whp easy and it already has a tranny behind it that can hold. It is approaching the limit of an auto, but it should hold at 400 for a good while provided its healthy and you put a decent cooler on it. If its an R154 motor set, even better regarding power capability.
If you go NA-T, you have to spring for all of the single stuff, piggyback, fuel and tranny upgrades. The tranny upgrades will probably run you at least what you said you can get the 1J swap for, so again, you are at the same cost.
I wouldn't go 1.5 or GTE head on GE block because of the added (unnecessary)cost. The GE head will make the power, so unless you just want the FFIM, COP etc, its a money pit waiting to happen. (unless it's like gs300 says and you have a ton of parts just sitting around)
The JDM 2JZ is a PITA because of wiring, but will also need a single kit, or at least USDM twins, piggyback, and fuel to get 400whp. I think this is the most expensive option, but if you shop wisely, you may be able to swing it for about the same price.
Obvoiusly, USDM swap and JDM Supra swap will cost out the nose in comparison. At least 7-8k before its all said and done.
With the 1JZ, swap the motor set in, get a piggyback, single kit, and fuel. You should get 400whp easy and it already has a tranny behind it that can hold. It is approaching the limit of an auto, but it should hold at 400 for a good while provided its healthy and you put a decent cooler on it. If its an R154 motor set, even better regarding power capability.
If you go NA-T, you have to spring for all of the single stuff, piggyback, fuel and tranny upgrades. The tranny upgrades will probably run you at least what you said you can get the 1J swap for, so again, you are at the same cost.
I wouldn't go 1.5 or GTE head on GE block because of the added (unnecessary)cost. The GE head will make the power, so unless you just want the FFIM, COP etc, its a money pit waiting to happen. (unless it's like gs300 says and you have a ton of parts just sitting around)
The JDM 2JZ is a PITA because of wiring, but will also need a single kit, or at least USDM twins, piggyback, and fuel to get 400whp. I think this is the most expensive option, but if you shop wisely, you may be able to swing it for about the same price.
Obvoiusly, USDM swap and JDM Supra swap will cost out the nose in comparison. At least 7-8k before its all said and done.
12-28-10, 11:03 AM
#17
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You can do the head swap, that's what i was going to do at some point a couple of months ago.
Going with the 2JZGTE head will cost me less money than going FFIM yeah less money, it all depend on who you know! and how much spare parts you have!
The GTE head sells anywhere from $400 to $900, you still need the cams , intake manifold, IACV, TPS, TB, Fuel rail if you wanna stay with stock injectors.
I think the cheapest will be the 1.5JZ since you can buy the Head for almost to nothing really.
You can built a 1.5 for a really cheap price, seriously cheap.I just finished with my friend
MK4 Supra with the 1.6JZ lol it's 3.1L Block with 2.5L Head i am waiting to see what it does on the Dyno.
Going with the 2JZGTE head will cost me less money than going FFIM yeah less money, it all depend on who you know! and how much spare parts you have!
The GTE head sells anywhere from $400 to $900, you still need the cams , intake manifold, IACV, TPS, TB, Fuel rail if you wanna stay with stock injectors.
I think the cheapest will be the 1.5JZ since you can buy the Head for almost to nothing really.
You can built a 1.5 for a really cheap price, seriously cheap.I just finished with my friend
MK4 Supra with the 1.6JZ lol it's 3.1L Block with 2.5L Head i am waiting to see what it does on the Dyno.
12-28-10, 11:41 AM
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You are correct my friend, I forgot someone local was giving me a Fully complete 1JZ head for free lol with intake, TB, Fuel rail all i needed to find was the sensors. But i didn't wanna downgrade lol so i just let it go.
Yes the 2jz flow more and better, the 1JZ EXh and Int port are so small, the Valves are so small compare the 2JZ.
Yes i compared them side by side, we had installed 2JZGTE Ferrea 1MM Over into the 1JZ head lol.Yes 2jZ 1mm over ON both SIDE.
But if you're not looking for Hwy monster the 1JZ stock head,and valves will make plenty of power.
OP what is your power Goal anyway?
Yes the 2jz flow more and better, the 1JZ EXh and Int port are so small, the Valves are so small compare the 2JZ.
Yes i compared them side by side, we had installed 2JZGTE Ferrea 1MM Over into the 1JZ head lol.Yes 2jZ 1mm over ON both SIDE.
But if you're not looking for Hwy monster the 1JZ stock head,and valves will make plenty of power.
OP what is your power Goal anyway?
let me knowI think its a wash.
With the 1JZ, swap the motor set in, get a piggyback, single kit, and fuel. You should get 400whp easy and it already has a tranny behind it that can hold. It is approaching the limit of an auto, but it should hold at 400 for a good while provided its healthy and you put a decent cooler on it. If its an R154 motor set, even better regarding power capability.
If you go NA-T, you have to spring for all of the single stuff, piggyback, fuel and tranny upgrades. The tranny upgrades will probably run you at least what you said you can get the 1J swap for, so again, you are at the same cost.
I wouldn't go 1.5 or GTE head on GE block because of the added (unnecessary)cost. The GE head will make the power, so unless you just want the FFIM, COP etc, its a money pit waiting to happen. (unless it's like gs300 says and you have a ton of parts just sitting around)
The JDM 2JZ is a PITA because of wiring, but will also need a single kit, or at least USDM twins, piggyback, and fuel to get 400whp. I think this is the most expensive option, but if you shop wisely, you may be able to swing it for about the same price.
Obvoiusly, USDM swap and JDM Supra swap will cost out the nose in comparison. At least 7-8k before its all said and done.
With the 1JZ, swap the motor set in, get a piggyback, single kit, and fuel. You should get 400whp easy and it already has a tranny behind it that can hold. It is approaching the limit of an auto, but it should hold at 400 for a good while provided its healthy and you put a decent cooler on it. If its an R154 motor set, even better regarding power capability.
If you go NA-T, you have to spring for all of the single stuff, piggyback, fuel and tranny upgrades. The tranny upgrades will probably run you at least what you said you can get the 1J swap for, so again, you are at the same cost.
I wouldn't go 1.5 or GTE head on GE block because of the added (unnecessary)cost. The GE head will make the power, so unless you just want the FFIM, COP etc, its a money pit waiting to happen. (unless it's like gs300 says and you have a ton of parts just sitting around)
The JDM 2JZ is a PITA because of wiring, but will also need a single kit, or at least USDM twins, piggyback, and fuel to get 400whp. I think this is the most expensive option, but if you shop wisely, you may be able to swing it for about the same price.
Obvoiusly, USDM swap and JDM Supra swap will cost out the nose in comparison. At least 7-8k before its all said and done.
What I think its coming down to is Na-t vs 1.5jz...
12-28-10, 12:19 PM
#19
everyone just needs to get over the whole intake manifold thing... lol.
quickgs can take his intake manifold off in 10 minutes, ive seen it... just takes practice.
you cant have cheap and looking good and powerful all at the same time.
you can pick 2 but there is no solution to get all 3 really, if there was we would already have it.
just go na-t, and when you have extra funds down the road buy a FFIM. they are getting cheaper all the time. you can even have your own made for cheap if you are a little handy.
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-kinda-i...alysis-363346/
quickgs can take his intake manifold off in 10 minutes, ive seen it... just takes practice.
you cant have cheap and looking good and powerful all at the same time.
you can pick 2 but there is no solution to get all 3 really, if there was we would already have it.
just go na-t, and when you have extra funds down the road buy a FFIM. they are getting cheaper all the time. you can even have your own made for cheap if you are a little handy.
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-kinda-i...alysis-363346/
12-28-10, 01:04 PM
#20
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Ok let me break it dowm to you.
If you don't have these parts or know anybody that can hook you up, just go na-T and you will thank me later.
If you go na-T you can have 600rwhp Car for about 7k if you do all the work by yourself.
I should never brought up the 1.5JZ things into the thread because i know alot of people, some people OWE me so they hook me up when i need some from them, Worse case i buy it brand new if i need it asap.
I used to have all type GTE parts at the house sold some, put some in the trash.
To be honest there nothing wrong with the Na intake if you know how to ... i can remove my intake manifold in couple of minutes no BS.
You must know the tricks...
Again i wanted to know you power goal.. but you forgot to mention it.
This is what i did i sold my gte to go na-T, yes na-T and the first thing i bought was AEM before anything else.At first i hated the Na manifold after thinking about how much money i had in my Gte and was nowhere near 600rwhp i just couldn't do it.
I love my Na-T.
You did alot of research but you need to seat down an think about it.
With standalone you can run coil on Plugs, you can do alot of thing that the stock ECU won't let you do.
I had deleted so many stuff of my car and it ride like stock if i put an exhaust on it.
I know a couple Gte guys that said if that have to do it again they will go na-t + V160 from the begining.And if you look majority of the people that are 2JZGTE had 1JZ at some point lol.
Since you already have the engine, just install the 1.3mm HG and keep moving. I am the type that like to use what i have, not spend money on garbage.
If you don't have these parts or know anybody that can hook you up, just go na-T and you will thank me later.
If you go na-T you can have 600rwhp Car for about 7k if you do all the work by yourself.
I should never brought up the 1.5JZ things into the thread because i know alot of people, some people OWE me so they hook me up when i need some from them, Worse case i buy it brand new if i need it asap.
I used to have all type GTE parts at the house sold some, put some in the trash.
To be honest there nothing wrong with the Na intake if you know how to ... i can remove my intake manifold in couple of minutes no BS.
You must know the tricks...
Again i wanted to know you power goal.. but you forgot to mention it.
This is what i did i sold my gte to go na-T, yes na-T and the first thing i bought was AEM before anything else.At first i hated the Na manifold after thinking about how much money i had in my Gte and was nowhere near 600rwhp i just couldn't do it.
I love my Na-T.
You did alot of research but you need to seat down an think about it.
With standalone you can run coil on Plugs, you can do alot of thing that the stock ECU won't let you do.
I had deleted so many stuff of my car and it ride like stock if i put an exhaust on it.
I know a couple Gte guys that said if that have to do it again they will go na-t + V160 from the begining.And if you look majority of the people that are 2JZGTE had 1JZ at some point lol.
Since you already have the engine, just install the 1.3mm HG and keep moving. I am the type that like to use what i have, not spend money on garbage.
12-28-10, 02:09 PM
#22
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I'm in the Na-T boat. Like was posted above build an intake manifold cheap or buy a FFIM for like $650 or something close to that. You already have an engine you can turbo and it'll do just fine with a distributor and intake and you can always upgrade those later. Work with what you have because they are all about the same so why pay more money for something you already have. If you get a TT engine and those blow out you gotta go single anyways so why waste the money on an engine swap. I wouldn't even worry about a 5 speed to be honest just get a TT Supra trans and swap the valvebody and you have a trans for 400whp or so without being built
12-29-10, 03:35 AM
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everyone just needs to get over the whole intake manifold thing... lol.
quickgs can take his intake manifold off in 10 minutes, ive seen it... just takes practice.
you cant have cheap and looking good and powerful all at the same time.
you can pick 2 but there is no solution to get all 3 really, if there was we would already have it.
just go na-t, and when you have extra funds down the road buy a FFIM. they are getting cheaper all the time. you can even have your own made for cheap if you are a little handy.
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-kinda-i...alysis-363346/
quickgs can take his intake manifold off in 10 minutes, ive seen it... just takes practice.
you cant have cheap and looking good and powerful all at the same time.
you can pick 2 but there is no solution to get all 3 really, if there was we would already have it.
just go na-t, and when you have extra funds down the road buy a FFIM. they are getting cheaper all the time. you can even have your own made for cheap if you are a little handy.
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-kinda-i...alysis-363346/
As far as Cheap, Fast or reliable. I believe you can do all three, just depends on how long you willing to wait to meet all 3. I'll lurk the forsale section if need be, for new parts or low mileage parts.
Ok let me break it dowm to you.
If you don't have these parts or know anybody that can hook you up, just go na-T and you will thank me later.
If you go na-T you can have 600rwhp Car for about 7k if you do all the work by yourself.
I should never brought up the 1.5JZ things into the thread because i know alot of people, some people OWE me so they hook me up when i need some from them, Worse case i buy it brand new if i need it asap.
I used to have all type GTE parts at the house sold some, put some in the trash.
To be honest there nothing wrong with the Na intake if you know how to ... i can remove my intake manifold in couple of minutes no BS.
You must know the tricks...
Again i wanted to know you power goal.. but you forgot to mention it.
This is what i did i sold my gte to go na-T, yes na-T and the first thing i bought was AEM before anything else.At first i hated the Na manifold after thinking about how much money i had in my Gte and was nowhere near 600rwhp i just couldn't do it.
I love my Na-T.
You did alot of research but you need to seat down an think about it.
With standalone you can run coil on Plugs, you can do alot of thing that the stock ECU won't let you do.
I had deleted so many stuff of my car and it ride like stock if i put an exhaust on it.
I know a couple Gte guys that said if that have to do it again they will go na-t + V160 from the begining.And if you look majority of the people that are 2JZGTE had 1JZ at some point lol.
Since you already have the engine, just install the 1.3mm HG and keep moving. I am the type that like to use what i have, not spend money on garbage.
If you don't have these parts or know anybody that can hook you up, just go na-T and you will thank me later.
If you go na-T you can have 600rwhp Car for about 7k if you do all the work by yourself.
I should never brought up the 1.5JZ things into the thread because i know alot of people, some people OWE me so they hook me up when i need some from them, Worse case i buy it brand new if i need it asap.
I used to have all type GTE parts at the house sold some, put some in the trash.
To be honest there nothing wrong with the Na intake if you know how to ... i can remove my intake manifold in couple of minutes no BS.
You must know the tricks...
Again i wanted to know you power goal.. but you forgot to mention it.
This is what i did i sold my gte to go na-T, yes na-T and the first thing i bought was AEM before anything else.At first i hated the Na manifold after thinking about how much money i had in my Gte and was nowhere near 600rwhp i just couldn't do it.
I love my Na-T.
You did alot of research but you need to seat down an think about it.
With standalone you can run coil on Plugs, you can do alot of thing that the stock ECU won't let you do.
I had deleted so many stuff of my car and it ride like stock if i put an exhaust on it.
I know a couple Gte guys that said if that have to do it again they will go na-t + V160 from the begining.And if you look majority of the people that are 2JZGTE had 1JZ at some point lol.
Since you already have the engine, just install the 1.3mm HG and keep moving. I am the type that like to use what i have, not spend money on garbage.
I didn't forget... I thought it was in the first post... lol
As far as power goals, 400rwhp seemed like I would suit the SC as I see them as a sleeper for the most part. People seem to forget Lexus is just a sub of Toyota and that most of the lexus's came with 2j's... one of the most desirable and respected powerplants out there.
But since the idea is to go Na-t now, why not break 500rwhp and see how I feel about it when i get there. What I know I do want in a na-t setup is responce and reliablity but the mileage on the GE is around 175k. But after I get another DD, I could be alright if the GE went down for some odd reason.
Also I seen the GS in your avater, I was wondering if you'd show a couple pictures? I got a huge thing for GS's lol
I'm in the Na-T boat. Like was posted above build an intake manifold cheap or buy a FFIM for like $650 or something close to that. You already have an engine you can turbo and it'll do just fine with a distributor and intake and you can always upgrade those later. Work with what you have because they are all about the same so why pay more money for something you already have. If you get a TT engine and those blow out you gotta go single anyways so why waste the money on an engine swap. I wouldn't even worry about a 5 speed to be honest just get a TT Supra trans and swap the valvebody and you have a trans for 400whp or so without being built
I'm coming from a MK3 Turbo to a SC, the R154 is a good trans and will support the power in stock form even at 500rwhp. 600hp-700hp is where i'd start worrying about it, but for the price R154 vs v160, r154 wins hands down and a local told me he know someone that had a Merlin rebuild R154 for $200 without bellhousing.
Last edited by VIPcarter; 12-29-10 at 03:40 AM.
12-29-10, 04:10 AM
#24
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Get a DD and then start shopping for parts.Make sure you don't build your car right at the edge of you power goal.
If you are looking for 500rwhp buy a 750rwhp turbo same goes to the injectors
750-880cc so you have some room to grow if you decide to turn up the boost, this will save you from buying parts and upgrading parts whenever you wanna go up 5-10 psi.
I was chasing 500rwhp i bought an 800rwhp Turbo,1600cc injectors in case i decided to do E85 since i couldn't make anymore power on 93 octane due to my C.R.
Boost that 175k miles block you will be fine just do some leak down test and then go from there.
As for the V160 i feel like you will be getting one soon lol just J/k. It's the best Tranny ever and i just can't see myself driving my car with an R154.
Don't waste your time on trying to swap a TT valve body in your Na tranny it's a complete waste of time to be honest with you. I would just get a built Na Trans and be done with it.
If you can get an R154 for $200 then i will say just get it, but what clutch are you gonna use for 700rwhp because that's where all the problems starts.
If you are looking for 500rwhp buy a 750rwhp turbo same goes to the injectors
750-880cc so you have some room to grow if you decide to turn up the boost, this will save you from buying parts and upgrading parts whenever you wanna go up 5-10 psi.
I was chasing 500rwhp i bought an 800rwhp Turbo,1600cc injectors in case i decided to do E85 since i couldn't make anymore power on 93 octane due to my C.R.
Boost that 175k miles block you will be fine just do some leak down test and then go from there.
As for the V160 i feel like you will be getting one soon lol just J/k. It's the best Tranny ever and i just can't see myself driving my car with an R154.
Don't waste your time on trying to swap a TT valve body in your Na tranny it's a complete waste of time to be honest with you. I would just get a built Na Trans and be done with it.
If you can get an R154 for $200 then i will say just get it, but what clutch are you gonna use for 700rwhp because that's where all the problems starts.
12-29-10, 07:31 AM
#25
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As far as a clutch would go, I'd think a Twin Disc would take care of it. But I haven't spend much time looking into 700Rwhp+ I wouldn't know for sure.
If you wanna send me a v160 i have no problems taking it, I'll even swap it with a smile on my face
As far as turbo's go, I'm thinking MP T70 .68a/r (or .70), I'm interested in quick spool but I'm not all that fimilar with A/r to be truthful.
If you wanna send me a v160 i have no problems taking it, I'll even swap it with a smile on my face
As far as turbo's go, I'm thinking MP T70 .68a/r (or .70), I'm interested in quick spool but I'm not all that fimilar with A/r to be truthful.
12-29-10, 08:13 AM
#27
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I wish i had spare one because i would gave it to you haha.
Since your goal is not 700rwhp just get a 700rwhp turbo and go from there.
All these turbo will make 700rwhp in case on day you decide you want more.
Get a better Turbo Precision, Garrett or BW.
I am not a Garrett guy i don't like garrett that's just me. At GT35, PT6265 or PT6262, or BW S300 series will do it ,But i wouldn't buy anything lower than .81AR.
Manifold you can just get an Ebay one there work fine, I had an ebay one at some point.
Since your goal is not 700rwhp just get a 700rwhp turbo and go from there.
All these turbo will make 700rwhp in case on day you decide you want more.
Get a better Turbo Precision, Garrett or BW.
I am not a Garrett guy i don't like garrett that's just me. At GT35, PT6265 or PT6262, or BW S300 series will do it ,But i wouldn't buy anything lower than .81AR.
Manifold you can just get an Ebay one there work fine, I had an ebay one at some point.
12-29-10, 08:59 AM
#28
im in ohio and there are more boosed SC's then you could think of im sure. they just dont get out much.
also be careful with that $750 one, let me see some pics before you buy it because i know of one thats going around thats not as good as its supposed to be.
also be careful with that $750 one, let me see some pics before you buy it because i know of one thats going around thats not as good as its supposed to be.
12-29-10, 10:45 AM
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I wish i had spare one because i would gave it to you haha.
Since your goal is not 700rwhp just get a 700rwhp turbo and go from there.
All these turbo will make 700rwhp in case on day you decide you want more.
Get a better Turbo Precision, Garrett or BW.
I am not a Garrett guy i don't like garrett that's just me. At GT35, PT6265 or PT6262, or BW S300 series will do it ,But i wouldn't buy anything lower than .81AR.
Manifold you can just get an Ebay one there work fine, I had an ebay one at some point.
Since your goal is not 700rwhp just get a 700rwhp turbo and go from there.
All these turbo will make 700rwhp in case on day you decide you want more.
Get a better Turbo Precision, Garrett or BW.
I am not a Garrett guy i don't like garrett that's just me. At GT35, PT6265 or PT6262, or BW S300 series will do it ,But i wouldn't buy anything lower than .81AR.
Manifold you can just get an Ebay one there work fine, I had an ebay one at some point.
That would be pretty nice but if ya happen to think of anything, I'll pay shipping
I like everything I see with a BW turbo on it, like garretts and heard good things about precision but draws back to price. For $450 + shipping I could have a BNIB MP T72 (w/ .96a/r) or T76 (w/ 1.15a/r), and these turbo's have held up. Half tempted to try a ebay turbo it, just to see how long it'd hold up, there's be a couple locals put down good numbers. Think it was 370rwhp with a fake T88, in a MK3 @ under 15psi.
IDK, I'm leaning toward the MP turbo's because of the price. But we'll see what happens when I actually start picking up parts.
Oh and by the way... your not gonna show me pictures are you...
How's are your SC coming along?