SC400 Twin Screw Supercharger Project In Development
#17
Yep. Its one of two that are made for roots and twin screw type chargers for the 1uz. The other company that makes a similar manifold is richwood aero. Mine is from Bullet cars.
Now why you'd want to waste time with a m90/112 is another matter.
Now why you'd want to waste time with a m90/112 is another matter.
#18
I really haven't looked into it all that much, as I've been preoccupied with getting the car running right and bodywork done, but what makes you say this?
The M90 is pretty undersized, but it seemed as if the M112 was a pretty decent option. Granted, Cobra and Lightning owners typically ditch them in favor of a KB/Whipple/etc, but those motors make 385-390hp in factory trim with that blower. I'm sure our little 4.0's would realize some solid gains. Why wouldn't one choose an Eaton, assuming as always that cost is an issue?
The M90 is pretty undersized, but it seemed as if the M112 was a pretty decent option. Granted, Cobra and Lightning owners typically ditch them in favor of a KB/Whipple/etc, but those motors make 385-390hp in factory trim with that blower. I'm sure our little 4.0's would realize some solid gains. Why wouldn't one choose an Eaton, assuming as always that cost is an issue?
#19
Eatons are crap. Roots blowers are way less efficient as compared to a twin screw. Look up the difference in articles online, the rotor design is much more advanced. Also, making a m112 fit under the hood on that manifold is a whole lot of custom work too!! Extra milling and welding is involved.
Its only like 10% more cost to go twin screw so why not
Its only like 10% more cost to go twin screw so why not
#22
Scott, I know i'm going to have a million questions for you along the way.
I just went back and re-read your first supercharger build.
First question: How did you couple the bypass valve with the the rear inlet? There's very little height clearance(spacer under the blower helps) and i would rather not weld the bypass solid to the inlet, but i can't come up with a better idea.
I just went back and re-read your first supercharger build.
First question: How did you couple the bypass valve with the the rear inlet? There's very little height clearance(spacer under the blower helps) and i would rather not weld the bypass solid to the inlet, but i can't come up with a better idea.
#23
Looking awesome UpInTheLex. Just got this running today.. still untune. Using a start up program. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNfNyYsWxMI
#24
Looks great David, I know you've been persistent on that project. Looks awesome. The aussie guys get you that front snout kit for the 112? I noticed the Yella Terra Logo... How long is the snout?
#25
I didnt measure but it is a completely different snout than the oem M112. Belt alignment is perfect.
#27
#28
That's great news. I may be able to get this 9" snout I have to work after all. It seems just a bit long, but it was of no cost to me, so I want to try to make it work as another snout is $350-400.
Thane and I will be making a separate pulley drive in front of the accessory drive belt with HTD teeth like timing belts use. Like this one from Kevin Deane.
Notice how he uses the old hydraulic cooling fan pump as a idler/tensioner mount.
Thane and I will be making a separate pulley drive in front of the accessory drive belt with HTD teeth like timing belts use. Like this one from Kevin Deane.
Notice how he uses the old hydraulic cooling fan pump as a idler/tensioner mount.
Last edited by UpInTheLex; 02-10-11 at 03:48 PM.
#29
Lexus Test Driver
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From: Sideways on the Yellow Brick Road! < Thats KS!
Scott, I know i'm going to have a million questions for you along the way.
I just went back and re-read your first supercharger build.
First question: How did you couple the bypass valve with the the rear inlet? There's very little height clearance(spacer under the blower helps) and i would rather not weld the bypass solid to the inlet, but i can't come up with a better idea.
I just went back and re-read your first supercharger build.
First question: How did you couple the bypass valve with the the rear inlet? There's very little height clearance(spacer under the blower helps) and i would rather not weld the bypass solid to the inlet, but i can't come up with a better idea.
Looking awesome UpInTheLex. Just got this running today.. still untune. Using a start up program. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNfNyYsWxMI
That's great news. I may be able to get this 9" snout I have to work after all. It seems just a bit long, but it was of no cost to me, so I want to try to make it work as another snout is $350-400.
Thane and I will be making a separate pulley drive in front of the accessory drive belt with HTD teeth like timing belts use. Like this one from Kevin Deane.
Notice how he uses the old hydraulic cooling fan pump as a idler/tensioner mount.
Thane and I will be making a separate pulley drive in front of the accessory drive belt with HTD teeth like timing belts use. Like this one from Kevin Deane.
Notice how he uses the old hydraulic cooling fan pump as a idler/tensioner mount.
#30
Thanks Scott much appreciated. You are correct about John Cribb going Cog, Gilmer, HTD 3 words for the same thing, HTD is the industry term for High Torque Drive. Except John did ALL his pulleys, SC, alternator, PS pump, Crank,etc in HTD style.
I went over to the shop today and mocked up the parts on my spare motor. It looks like the 9" snout I have will work, but I will have to offset the pulley back over the snout about an inch because it's too long.
I also got good news from Whipple today that I will be able to convert from direct drive to extended drive by way of a 129.00 kit.
Anyway here's two pics.
I went over to the shop today and mocked up the parts on my spare motor. It looks like the 9" snout I have will work, but I will have to offset the pulley back over the snout about an inch because it's too long.
I also got good news from Whipple today that I will be able to convert from direct drive to extended drive by way of a 129.00 kit.
Anyway here's two pics.