Looks like your useing 97 style fuel rails/tb/maf.. The 97 throttle body is nice as it doesnt have the trac flapper.

I removed the crank pulley today to begin solid modeling.

The distance from the crankshaft centerline to the top surface of the bullet top plate is 13 inches +/- .0625.

 

I havent checked out CL for a while, and here is another good supercharger project.
I am sorry I havent been back to you Michael about the post to me in my thread, but if need info and I can help I will.

I will answer these questions for you here.

Paul,

In terms of your setup now, I've got a bunch of questions.

Are you running the 8 rib belt?

What size water/meth nozzles? How many psi is your pump? How many nozzles are you running? and is the position before or after the whipple? Is it boost activated? What psi?

What else besides a fuel pressure regulator and the 255 walbro has been changed from stock in terms of fuel system?


Those are impressive results should be enough to keep up with the is-f.
__________________
Michael LeCompte


I am running a 6 rib belt

My W/M system is a devils own one from the states
250 adjustable PSI pump, mine is set to 200 PSI
I am currently running a 3 gallon nozzle, will be upgrading to a 7 gallon one for my next tune.
I am using the Devils electronic controller set to come on at 2lb and stay on to max boost.
The nozzle is fitted just before the throttle body.

The only other upgrade to fuel system is a set of 440cc injectors, you will need to get an after market ECU for tuning.

If you plan to run low boost you can use the standard 250cc injectors and the factory ecu.

I have some questions for you,

with your intake housing for your T/B. how do you plan to fit the by pass valve.

where do intend fitting the idle control valve.

Also with the long snout and large pulley you will have serious issues with hood clearance.

My original set up ran 10lbs with a 93mm top pulley and the crank pulley was machined down from 155mm to 145mm, my top pulley now is 86mm giving me 12.5lbs.

I have made some minor changes in the last month and will update my thread and not spam yours. good luck with it, I hit a lot of small problems with mine but am more than happy to help out.

Paul.

 

I'll answer your questions one by one.

with your intake housing for your T/B. how do you plan to fit the by pass valve.

The fin on the rear inlet will be ground off. I haven't fully decided, but I'm leaning towards welding a 90 degree elbow on and mate that to the bypass valve via a rubber/silicone coupler. The rear inlet already has an opening for bypass valve, but un fortunately its shifted to far to the side of the manifold. It will need to be blocked off. Or something to that effect. I'm open to suggestions.

where do intend fitting the idle control valve.
I will either incorporate this in with the bypass valve mods to the rear inlet, but more than likely i will make a 2-3" extention pipe from the rear inlet flange to the TB, and fit the iac there. This will also help point the TB in the right direction towards the MAF and stock airbox.

Also with the long snout and large pulley you will have serious issues with hood clearance.
we intend to run a seperate HTD crank pully off the front of the stock crank pulley for the blower drive and we are going to make the diameter much smaller to keep the blower pulley smaller. Scott sold me a set of solid motor mounts a while back, and while they'll rattle your fillings loose, it'll keep the motor movement under control. If worse comes to worse I'll have to breakdown and buy another snout, so be it. The plan is to mount the SC as far back as i can. kevin Deane runs a 3300 on a LS with the front drive with that big old blower pully, not sure if the ls has better clearance than an sc.

My original set up ran 10lbs with a 93mm top pulley and the crank pulley was machined down from 155mm to 145mm, my top pulley now is 86mm giving me 12.5lbs.

Thats good food for thought.

I have made some minor changes in the last month and will update my thread and not spam yours. good luck with it, I hit a lot of small problems with mine but am more than happy to help out.

Paul, please spam away in this thread. The purpose here is to provide others with information they can use (the keys to the kingdom), so that more projects like this will pop up. Yours, Scotts, Kevins, and Johns threads have been my guiding lights so far. I was super happy to see you show up here tonight

michael.

 

Ross tuffbond is also making these killer sfi approved balancers for the 1uz. Its fitted with a htd drive for a dry sump, but i maybe able to talk him in to making one with a few more teeth suited to drive the blower.

Heres a link to the balancer with htd drive.
http://www.v-eight.com/tech_forum/vi...4&p=9337#p9337

 

Nice! I may need to contact him. I like the look of that.

 

This project has legs again.

Since the last time I posted, Heather and I moved to Oregon, got a new jobs, bought a house and got married. Bit the bullet and shipped the SC400, a spare 1uz, and my speed parts and lots of tools here to the house.

I'm picking up my snout and harmonic balancer from Thane this weekend. It's hard to believe it's been sitting in a box in his garage for 2 years. Bringing a cherry picker home from work tomorrow. I'll be splitting the 1uz from the a340 and getting it mounted up on the engine stand and then start mocking everything up for reals and come up with a belt drive solution.

I'm a design engineer of packaging equipment for the beverage industry mostly and now have contacts with very capable vendors. 6 axis Laser tubing cutters, custom urethane castings or urethane bonded parts, cnc round tubing bender, plastic injection moulding, punch presse, sheetmetal fab and of course high speed cnc mills and lathes.

So if you have design ideas and manufacturing limitations hit me up, i love this stuff.

p.s. - Scott, check your PM... I'm trying to find softer replacement bushings for your design solid motor mounts.

 

Well I got almost everything I wanted to do this weekend on this project finished.

I wasn't able to find M12x1.25x120mm bolts and washers locally. So I couldn't get the engine mounted to the engine stand. I'll see if we have any in the machine shop on monday and if not I'll order them from McMaster-Carr.com.

The picture is the scene on Saturday. I got the engine and trans separated and unbolted the torque converter and put that on a pallet with the trans. You can see my car in the background with my pup leaning up against the front wheel.

It's so nice to have a spare engine to mock this up on... still able to enjoy driving my car during the project.

Pressure washed the engine today and have it sitting on a piece of plywood on the base of the engine stand. I'm leaving now to go pickup the snout and harmonic balancer from Thane. I need to get a direct drive kit from whipple to attach the snout. Funny the price of the adapter is more than double what it cost 2 years ago. It was 120 then it's over 300 now.

Has me thinking about the v160... It was $2500 in 2003. And they're 4500-5000 now in 2013. Are they doing to double again in price in 10 years??

Also here's a cool video I found of a e30 bmw drift car in Czech... it's running a centrifugal supercharger supercharger setup and is badass.

 

That damned 1UZ sounds badass!! Sweet! in for completion of yours!!

Keep her going Up!!

Ryan

 

Thank you for the kind words and encouragement Ryan.

I want to let the community know about Jon Bond Performance. He hooked me up and shipped same day the snout extension conversion parts I needed. At a great price too. He's a wealth of knowledge and a valuable resource. He's in this hobby for all the right reasons.
Jonbondperformance.com

 

After picking my extended drive snout from Thane we noticed that the 8mm steel pins where the coupler attaches were bent. Which means that that plastic coupler had failed and the PO kept running it and just beat everything to death. The snout was probably from a boat and the coupler broke while out at sea and they had to do what they had to do to get back to shore.

SOOO.... I'm rebuilding the snout. It is disassembled and I've ordered two new upgraded bearings and an upgraded seal and a new carbon fiber reinforced PEEK plastic coupler. I've also been instructed to use the bolt in the end of the snout that has a tiny hole edm-ed in for venting air out of the snout. I will also need to drill two small ~.125" holes in the side of the snout shaft that blow out inside of the remaining air space in the blind hole that the vented bolt is threaded into so that the internal cavity of the snout can breathe. This yeilds batter results that venting thru the top of the snout as that foams a little oil out often and you end up needing to check the blowers oil more often. The vented bolt trick saves you trouble in the long run.

Here's a pic of the snout all disassembled.

I've also decided that a serpentine belt setup is going to be more well suited to this application. Yes the belt can slip which isn't desireable, BUT it is a good thing that the belt can slightly slip when letting off the throttle at high rpm... After talking to Jon Bond, he informed me that every blower he's seen that runs a HTD belt drive gets the bearings and gears of the headunit destroyed. I'm going to run 6 rib for now with the best belt I can find and come up with a sweet design for tensioners/idlers.

follow up edit: I recieved the pins from McMaster carr and they are a perfect direct replacement. The pins are now pressed in and I'm waiting for the hub and the snout parts to show up.

 

Pulley Ratios and boost calculator..
For a 4.0 liter V8 @ 6750rpm

Theoretical Values (no efficiency losses factored in) for
1.14 = 6psi
1.25 = 8psi
1.36 = 10psi
1.47 = 12psi

Real World values from a toyota 4.0L v8 engine with a new style actual whipple 2.3(Pauls setup)
1.56 pulley ratio = 10psi
1.69 Pulley ratio= 12psi



So with efficiency losses factored in as compared to the real world values. My new pulley sizes are as follows.
3 inch blower pulley

1.333 ratio = 4" crank = 6psi
1.438 ratio = 4.3125" crank = 8psi
1.541 ratio = 4.625" crank = 10psi
1.666 ratio = 5" crank = 12psi
1.792 ratio = 5.375" crank = 14psi

So an increase in crank pulley diameter by .3125-.375 should yield about a 2psi increase through this range.

The m12 bolts came in yesterday and so I attached the engine to the stand and I also ordered two 90 degree 1.5" silicone pieces to hook up the bypass valve.

 

From left to right:
22mm thick Coupler, snout hub, extended drive hub, non vented bolt, vented bolt, direct drive hub.

In the picture you can see the incorrect coupler that whipple sent me.

I ordered a WP-PCHPLY which is a 17mm coupler for a lysholm supercharger.
I received a WP-PCHPWH which is a 22mm coupler for a whipple supercharger.

This is an upgraded carbonfiber reinforced PEEK plastic coupler for high horsepower applications.

FWIW, I've heard that If you have a whipple, you should get this coupler because the factory coupler will fail. It's not cheap however at $125.

Still waiting for parts...

 

Update 8/29/13

I got the right coupler from Whipple. I had to get shorter bolts for the extended drive hub. Got those in grade 12.9 and installed them . Ordered all new 12.9 grade bolts for the front cover of the lysholm. They'll be here tomorrow. So with any luck at all, the Blower will be fully assembled with the freshly rebuilt snout this weekend.

I received the Ross Tuffbond Metal Jacket race balancer today. It's a high quality piece. There are a few issues to sort out but Ross is taking care of everything. It's 1.5lbs heavier than the stock piece. The best part is there are two bolt patterns on the front to mount accessories to, in my case a blower pulley.

BTW: It's a good time to buy stuff from Australia right now as their dollar is down. You save 12%... which depending on what you buy is enough to offset the price of shipping.