BoostedSC3

Is this limited to early 1j's? I went 13.40s the night after my swap with a home depot boost controller hitting fuel cut in 3rd gear.. stock open diff and auto.

With a blitz controller, dr's, and meth i've been 12.80's easy. And i'm putting a LSD in now.

This is all at 14ish lbs as i still have fuel cut. Were getting around that now and we'll try 18ish.

sikes

Guys, all I am pointing out is that persons have done 11 secs with stock turbo, it is not for everyone to do I understand, but at least you know it has been done, 15 to 20 yrs old hardware will fail at anytime as will your new bb turbo if it lives that long.There is no way we going from 8psi to 18psi without upgrading various components. However it is up to you to modify and tune your car the way you want, some persons tune to do the most with what is there and other do otherwise.
Fuel cut it is easily remove with an emanage or fuel cut defender, or other piggy back. For those lucky enough to lay their hand on a modified ecu, that and speed cut would most certainly have been removed.
If you gonna try 18psi I would recommend at the least an unrestricted exhaust from the turbo all the way back,4" fmic, both fuel and ignition management 3bar map sensor and cam gear should give some great results and note that the turbo would be well into their efficiency range and higher boost than that may not yield more power without additional work.

BoostedSC3

vvti motors are maf not map.. a fuel cut defender is worthless to me.. a 4" front mount is extremely overkill the factory outlet from the turbo is 2.5" and I run that to my IC. I do have exhaust. And i will do just fine with my AFC neo.

sikes

I concentrated more on the non vvti 1jz. The maf should hold out just fine, strangely both cars are none vvti. If you don't get what you aiming for with what you using now you can always try those. Very curious as to why persons shy away from ignition timing adjustment when that is where you really bring on the power.

MIKU*SC3

iTrader: (10)

I know that were all talking about soarers but this guys mk3 is pretty quick.

Theres also another vid of his engine bay and some of his mods.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0-xxn1-Nok

ExcessFC

I have grenaded 2 sets of stock twins with a mid car dump, no exhaust and an intake @ 15ish PSI.

Personally I believe spreading information like this is reckless, and probably coming from someone who has never had to change a set of those twins, as it really is one of the least fun things ever. Guessing by the way you talk about the cost of install in a previous post, I am pretty sure my observation is correct.

The awful design of the Y pipe is old news, and was often considered the primary reason the RB Skyline ceramic turbo's did not have the these issues like the 1J (because their Y pipe was a better design).

sikes

I wish you would give more meaning full data as to your set up. I have indicated that the Y pipe is a must to change therefore I don't understand your reckless angle. I would like if you gave further details of your setup that we could compare and see what could have really gone wrong instead of jumping to a conclusion.
If you don't mind please indicate the follow:
Intake mod
FMIC size and piping size
downpipe size
"No exhaust" means what exactly
service history
and cool down proceed.
I see turbos all day long and while I have never had to change them true, I know that any combination of ill can kill them besides boost pressure.

ExcessFC

Extrude hone intake manifold, ported lower intake manifold ARP head studs and a 2.0MM HKS head gasket

FMIC 4" thick HKS core dems off the top of my head are 26x16 with custom end tanks

3" IC piping

3" Down Pipe

It means I have a selectable exhaust dump about 30" down stream from the turbo's, otherwise 3" to a 5 Zigen 3" turbo Fireball.

service history? 2 imported engines from japan, both out of auto soarer's?

This car did 298 RWHP in 2004 on a fresh imported engine, all stock, including stock boost on one of the worst fuel tunes I have ever done (rushed). I never dynoed it on the previous engine running more boost.

I have a friend who used a custom Y pipe who's turbos met their demise at 17PSI, and I got to change those also, lucky me. I would love to see 23 PSI on stock ceramic wheels.

How long have you owned a Gen 1/Gen 2 non VVTI 1JZ?

sikes

There is info like cool down that you have left out and you have an unknown service history, but the videos speak for themselves, it won't work on every car true, but it does not mean it has not happened.
Own a 1992 PoV pack soarer TT (power seats, TEM suspension which have been replaced with coilovers) for just around a 1 1/2 to 2 years.
Original twins still going strong when they let go, will go with a single setup which I already have.

Here are some links:
http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...tml?1263537573
http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...85/316326.html

The Australians seem to have figured out how to make the power with these cars

http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...53/181501.html
No time slip was provided for the above.

Below the build for 23psi on a daily driven soarer
http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...54/306610.html

Car which engine died build
http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...75/336306.html

ExcessFC

I suppose in my opinion, these numbers make me scratch my head, because there are much easier ways to get a ton more power out of these engines than turning up the boost to those levels and doing all of that porting work.

The stock ECU's are very conservative when it comes to an ignition map (as mentioned in one of the links you posted) even compared to a 2JZ, and one of the reasons I was able to net around 50 more RWHP than people running more PSI than I do.

I just think there are too many variables to turn up the boost and assume that it will be safe for everybody.

After changing those twins even once, most people will go out of their way not to have to ever do it again, and I would hate for someone to figure out just how bad it sucks on bad information.

Cheers.

sikes

From what I understand Australian dyno are more conservative than the us ones. In many thing you are right, but remember with 14-20 yr old hardware with unknown service history you never know when something will go and I think I have stressed that quite a few times, all that I am saying it is possible.
As to pulling the twins off friends have done it and they hate the idea just as you do.
I have also found out off that site that wrx TDO4l can be mated to the stock manifold with an adapter plate.