Performance & Maintenance Engine, forced induction, intakes, exhausts, torque converters, transmissions, etc.

Part II: Engine Upgrades: 2JZGTE T61 R154

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Old 03-01-12 | 09:42 AM
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Ok the S366 doesn't come with the 90* so maybe it shares the same compressor housing with the S362 and they just swapped the compressor housing.
That compressor housing is S362 housing.

Where is the box? what's the part number on the box? Call kirk just to confirm it. No i didn't mean to scare you!!
Old 03-01-12 | 10:19 AM
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Part number on my box is 177284. Here is what I found searching online

Borg Warner Air Werks S300SX3-66 / S366 Turbo (Type B)
  • Model: 177284
  • Manufactured by: BorgWarner AirWerks
NOTE:: This turbo is the Type B (90 degree comp outlet) with the T4 divided turbine housing by default & 90 degree charge pipe outlet, as seen in the picture.
::Compressor:: (cold side)
- Wheel: 66mm Inducer / 91.4mm Exducer w/ Extended Tip Technology
- Housing: Large 4.00" ported anti-surge air inlet / 3.00" 90 degree charge pipe outlet

::Turbine:: (hot side)
- Wheel: 79.7mm Inducer / 73mm Exducer (Made of Inconel 713 for high-temperature operation)
- Housing: (T04) T4 divided or undivided / 3.00" V-band flange downpipe discharge (3.12" ID, 4.21" ID, use flange kit 3501 found on our site)
- A/R: .91 divided (default) Also Available with a undivided .88 A/R

::Center Section::
- Oil Cooled
- Severe-Duty Journal Bearing System (rebuildable platform with service kit found on our site)


This one is yours--->


Borg Warner Air Werks S300SX3-66 / S366 Turbo (Type A)
  • Model: 177275 , 177281
  • Manufactured by: BorgWarner AirWerks
NOTE:: This turbo is the Type A (straight comp outlet) with the T4 .91 A/R turbine housing by default & straight charge pipe outlet, as seen in the picture.
::Compressor:: (cold side) Over 78 lb/min.
- Wheel: 66mm Inducer / 91.4mm Exducer w/ Extended Tip Technology
- Housing: Large 4.00" ported anti-surge air inlet / 3.00" charge pipe outlet

::Turbine:: (hot side)
- Wheel: 80mm Inducer / 73mm Exducer (Made of Inconel 713 for high-temperature operation)
- Housing: T4 Divided twin scroll / 3.00" V-band flange downpipe discharge (3.12" ID, 4.21" ID, use flange kit 3501 found on our site)
- A/R: .91 Divided (default) Also Available in .88 Undivided A/R

::Center Section::
- Oil Cooled
- Severe-Duty Journal Bearing System (rebuildable platform with service kit found on our site)
Old 03-01-12 | 10:40 AM
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Very good!!!! you see i didn't know that one existed lol , learn something new everyday.
Thanks for the info.
Old 03-07-12 | 07:06 AM
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the IC piping is killing me!!!! I have taken a couple days (a couple hours each one) and worked on the piping. I am going to hopefully get in there and make the final cuts to one side and get one side done, maybe two.

It is looking like I will be doign 4" all the way through. I have looked at the mufflers and now just looking at how to run the piping from MP back.

Waiting on sensors and to finish IC piping. Buddy coming this weekend to work on the welding. Car is close...just need to finish off these damn IC pipes!!
Old 03-07-12 | 07:44 AM
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Very good , you are getting close!! Are you gonna be ready for TX2k12? not that am going ..
Old 03-14-12 | 08:39 AM
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been working on a couple items and trying to knock out the list. Finished the IC piping for the intake last night...that was fun I am picking up some parts today and will be back at work. Was reading a post about the fuel cover leaking unless welded and that has me concerned so I might be looking for a new fuel cover. I have put a plug in mine for the fuel pumps...is this not good? I do not want to ground the fuel pumps in the tank. I wanted to ground them outside the tank. Thoughts. I can't run a post for each on the cover
Old 03-14-12 | 08:57 AM
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the gray you see around the connector is the sealant that drys hard and you can drill and tap. I can not move that connector at all. I do not see it leaking but hey I have been wrong before.



this is the back side. I have a rubber washer and a regular washer for extra tight fitment. I just added more of the liquid material on the wires and it is covering up the hole as well.



the wires are 12 or 14 awg...more than enough for the voltage. The plug made it easy to connect and disconnect. I will most likely add an indicator light to verify pump is powered and on.
Old 03-14-12 | 12:17 PM
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This may sound stupid, but you are planning to plug those two open holes in the middle of your white connector right?
Old 03-14-12 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by cartmill
This may sound stupid, but you are planning to plug those two open holes in the middle of your white connector right?
I already plugged them with the liquid tape...and they will be plugged on the other side as well.
Old 03-20-12 | 03:17 PM
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just got more presents...I do not want to open the 4" debate or should I have gone 3" I did the research and made my decision

Dual 4" inlet/outlet vibrant mufflers with black tips. The car did not start off to be as subdued on the visual as it has become but that is the way it is going. The last item I will have to decide is the wheels. I will be getting 20" wheels but do not know if I will go black on black or if I will add a little bling to the car by having them polished.





now just need to get my piping in.
Old 03-21-12 | 05:58 AM
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I like the exhaust specially 4" do it once and be done with it! lol

did you check out the S366 thread? I love threads like that.
Old 03-21-12 | 12:49 PM
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so ran into a wiring issue...damn you MARK Lexus1992!!! LOL gave me bad mojo!!! Actually my issue is not as bad. I am having a live spark on the post that comes from the line that goes from the battery directly to the fuse box...what line am I missing? It is sparking/arcing on the empty post that you see in this picture (at the bend of the black wire)







here is the flange added...


I got room!!
Old 03-21-12 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ICONYQ
I am having a live spark on the post that comes from the line that goes from the battery directly to the fuse box...what line am I missing? It is sparking/arcing on the empty post that you see in this picture (at the bend of the black wire)
i don't understand. doesn't make sense to me. can you explain differently?
Old 03-21-12 | 02:54 PM
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here is an highly artistic pic to illustrate what I am saying. The screw where the spark is coming out is unallocated. Just looking at it on the pic the issue could be that it is not screwed all the way down but that should be the issue. What I am thinking of doing is moving white with blue line to this screw.

If anyone can look at how their fuse box is wired underneath that would answer it. All the wires I have kept the same colors. The line coming from the battery is the red wire - if it was not clear

Old 03-21-12 | 03:08 PM
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sometimes stepping back and looking at your wonderful art answers your own question...

the screw like I said above was not all the way in. I could tell from the pic. So I went over, screwed it in, put power back on and VOILA...not more spark.

Car has power folks. I repeat car has power. Have some welding being done over this week and then the final assembly of all the parts begins. I am putting together the inside of the car tonight as that is ready to be cleaned and assembled.



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