Should I Buy a New Engine
05-31-11, 09:19 AM
#62
The part arrived on Friday afternoon, but I left for vacation over the long weekend. We used our Honda Fit as we can fill that car from top to bottom and it gets good gas mileage. I'm dropping by another members house tonight for the install. I'll let you know if this cures the RPM and stalling issue.
06-28-11, 06:10 AM
#65
My last post on this subject was May 31st, so that was approximately 4 weeks ago. The car was running great...until yesterday.
The issue came right back. Car loses RPM's and drops to a stalling point. I turn on the AC to keep the RPM's up at stop lights. It was pretty scary when it completely shut off on me while driving 35mph this morning.
Here is what I've replaced so far:
Timing belt, waterpump, thermostat, every gasket including valve covers, complete 100,000 Lexus/Toyota service, new distributor, distributor cap, wires, & plugs. I bought and replaced the AFM (MAF) with a used unit. The code reader showed that the AFM was the issue the first time so that's why I replaced it. What's the likely hood of this second AFM going bad? I'm thinking about buying another used one to see if that's the issue.
The issue came right back. Car loses RPM's and drops to a stalling point. I turn on the AC to keep the RPM's up at stop lights. It was pretty scary when it completely shut off on me while driving 35mph this morning.
Here is what I've replaced so far:
Timing belt, waterpump, thermostat, every gasket including valve covers, complete 100,000 Lexus/Toyota service, new distributor, distributor cap, wires, & plugs. I bought and replaced the AFM (MAF) with a used unit. The code reader showed that the AFM was the issue the first time so that's why I replaced it. What's the likely hood of this second AFM going bad? I'm thinking about buying another used one to see if that's the issue.
Last edited by Tabaka; 06-28-11 at 06:21 AM.
06-28-11, 06:28 AM
#67
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If it work for 4 weeks, maybe the maf went bad. Buy a brand new one from the dealer, I know you shelling out money, but that is the risk the factor. If you buy another used maf, and goes bad again, you probably could have brought a brand new one from the start.
06-28-11, 06:31 AM
#68
Brand new AFM/MAF from the dealer is $600 including a discount. Used ones go for $50-80. If I buy a new one from the dealer and it doesn't fix the issue...man, I'll be in some major trouble at home if you know what I mean.
So, anyone out there have a good working used AFM for a '95 GE?
Also thinking about replacing my alternator for the hell of it. I'm at 138k now so it's only a matter of time. That I will buy new though.
So, anyone out there have a good working used AFM for a '95 GE?
Also thinking about replacing my alternator for the hell of it. I'm at 138k now so it's only a matter of time. That I will buy new though.
Last edited by Tabaka; 06-28-11 at 06:34 AM.
06-28-11, 08:08 AM
#70
Brand new AFM/MAF from the dealer is $600 including a discount. Used ones go for $50-80. If I buy a new one from the dealer and it doesn't fix the issue...man, I'll be in some major trouble at home if you know what I mean.
So, anyone out there have a good working used AFM for a '95 GE?
Also thinking about replacing my alternator for the hell of it. I'm at 138k now so it's only a matter of time. That I will buy new though.
So, anyone out there have a good working used AFM for a '95 GE?
Also thinking about replacing my alternator for the hell of it. I'm at 138k now so it's only a matter of time. That I will buy new though.
my altenator has 237k miles on it and i'm running 2 compressors for my air susp.
06-28-11, 08:13 AM
#72
Good info to know...that's a long lasting alternator! So what shop does anyone recommend in our little Mid-Atlantic area that can actually diagnose and fix a toyota properly? I need to get a rental car again FML. Money isn't the issue, it's the time and patience of my woman at home. I seriously believe she's going to set my car on fire some day.
06-28-11, 08:14 AM
#73
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My last post on this subject was May 31st, so that was approximately 4 weeks ago. The car was running great...until yesterday.
The issue came right back. Car loses RPM's and drops to a stalling point. I turn on the AC to keep the RPM's up at stop lights. It was pretty scary when it completely shut off on me while driving 35mph this morning.
Here is what I've replaced so far:
Timing belt, waterpump, thermostat, every gasket including valve covers, complete 100,000 Lexus/Toyota service, new distributor, distributor cap, wires, & plugs. I bought and replaced the AFM (MAF) with a used unit. The code reader showed that the AFM was the issue the first time so that's why I replaced it. What's the likely hood of this second AFM going bad? I'm thinking about buying another used one to see if that's the issue.
The issue came right back. Car loses RPM's and drops to a stalling point. I turn on the AC to keep the RPM's up at stop lights. It was pretty scary when it completely shut off on me while driving 35mph this morning.
Here is what I've replaced so far:
Timing belt, waterpump, thermostat, every gasket including valve covers, complete 100,000 Lexus/Toyota service, new distributor, distributor cap, wires, & plugs. I bought and replaced the AFM (MAF) with a used unit. The code reader showed that the AFM was the issue the first time so that's why I replaced it. What's the likely hood of this second AFM going bad? I'm thinking about buying another used one to see if that's the issue.
What you're failing to realize that is the AFM sees little to no air coming in, the ECU will flag it thinking it's reading wrong (if another sensor is not lining up / reporting right such as TPS, IAC, etc). One of the first things I learned about "codes" from my dad was that they are never 100% accurate as to what your issue could be (example: O2 Sensors causing a bad catalytic converter code, vice versa).
The car actually shut off while driving down the road at 35 MPH? Were you coming off a sprinted run, just putting it up to 35, etc?
I've got a spare IAC and TPS - send me a UPS label for a 4x4 box and I'll send them out. I'll also send you my spare ignitor and coil (two things I see you did not check with a volt meter). If they fix your issue then great [you can pay at that point], if not you can send them back.
I have a feeling the IAC or TPS is the culprit personally, because your car has to know what your throttle is at to adjust the IAC properly BUT if the ignition has an issue it will do that (weather can affect a coil pack).
Did you check the grounds?
06-28-11, 08:42 AM
#74
I've never driven this car on a "sprinted or spirited run", it's too heavy. I was coming around a bend and noticed traffic was at a stop. I pushed the clutch & brake in and I guess the RPM's dropped to a stalling point shutting off the car. It use to shut off off on me just like that before I replaced your AFM. I pull the e-brake up and press on the gas at stop lights to keep the revs high enough not to stall. I found with the A/C engaged, that the car has no choice but to keep the revs a little bit higher than 250-500. It's just weird how it ran perfect...and I mean perfect for four weeks after replacing the AFM.
06-28-11, 08:52 AM
#75
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Because you more than likely reset the ECU (I hope so anyway).
There could be carbon on the tip of the IAC causing it to stick open or closed.
Whenever you clutch in and brake you're taking a huge amount of vacuum away from the engine for a second so it has to rebuild it (i.e. why the idle will drop if you sit there and beat on your brakes like michael jackson in a beat it music video at idle).
The A/C tells the IAC to open up a little more than normal.
Have you sprayed with carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks? It definitely could be a vacuum leak...
There could be carbon on the tip of the IAC causing it to stick open or closed.
Whenever you clutch in and brake you're taking a huge amount of vacuum away from the engine for a second so it has to rebuild it (i.e. why the idle will drop if you sit there and beat on your brakes like michael jackson in a beat it music video at idle).
The A/C tells the IAC to open up a little more than normal.
Have you sprayed with carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks? It definitely could be a vacuum leak...