Should I Buy a New Engine
#77
Lexus Champion
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i think its IAC and i told you long time ago thats what i thought it was from the sounds of it.....i would recommend Elite...Unless omar wants to mess with it. i would love to figure it out for you but we usually dont mess with problems that arent always there as i dont have the personal to drive the car to duplicate the issue.
#79
My issue came back with a vengeance last night.
Just an update on what I've replaced in the last three months on my bone stock 2JZGE... Replaced MAF, IACV, ECU, cleaned throttle body, new timing belt, water pump, air filter, spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap, new distributor, clutch fan, new radiator, and a new battery.
I have a brand new starter and used (but in great condition) power steering pump that I haven't installed yet.
The car fights to stay at idle after driving it for more than 10 minutes. My commute is roughly 45-50 minutes in each direction. Sometimes the stop and go can get tricky. I keep the car at idle by turning the A/C on when I come to a stop light. If I keep the A/C on after a light turns green, by the next light the RPM's will drop and I can quickly turn off, then turn back on the A/C. That usually saves the car from stalling. But it's a PIA as you can imagine. It's about to be the winter months so why the hell would I want my A/C on all the time. Not to mention it's pretty dangerous to drive a car that shuts off 5-10 times during a normal commute.
The only few items that I haven't replaced in my car is the alternator, igniter, fuel pump ecu, starter, P/S pump, and TPS.
Codes have come back as MAF and Speed Sensor (IACV?), so I replaced both which obviously hasn't fixed the issue.
I hate going to the mechanic because I have to get a rental car for several days which costs me even more $$$, but I'm afraid I have no choice again. Do you think it's time that the car hits a dealer?
Just an update on what I've replaced in the last three months on my bone stock 2JZGE... Replaced MAF, IACV, ECU, cleaned throttle body, new timing belt, water pump, air filter, spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap, new distributor, clutch fan, new radiator, and a new battery.
I have a brand new starter and used (but in great condition) power steering pump that I haven't installed yet.
The car fights to stay at idle after driving it for more than 10 minutes. My commute is roughly 45-50 minutes in each direction. Sometimes the stop and go can get tricky. I keep the car at idle by turning the A/C on when I come to a stop light. If I keep the A/C on after a light turns green, by the next light the RPM's will drop and I can quickly turn off, then turn back on the A/C. That usually saves the car from stalling. But it's a PIA as you can imagine. It's about to be the winter months so why the hell would I want my A/C on all the time. Not to mention it's pretty dangerous to drive a car that shuts off 5-10 times during a normal commute.
The only few items that I haven't replaced in my car is the alternator, igniter, fuel pump ecu, starter, P/S pump, and TPS.
Codes have come back as MAF and Speed Sensor (IACV?), so I replaced both which obviously hasn't fixed the issue.
I hate going to the mechanic because I have to get a rental car for several days which costs me even more $$$, but I'm afraid I have no choice again. Do you think it's time that the car hits a dealer?
#80
Lexus Test Driver
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Shane This is the last time i will say this You need a real mechanic stop spending throwing parts at your car ..someone that knows what they are doing it's something real simple !
#83
Lexus Champion
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if you are having those sort of problems, despite what the problem actually is I would crack the throttle plate open some more (there is an adjustment screw). If It Is too closed the IAC and ECU must do all the work. If It is cracked open some, the ecu can get away with making smaller adjustments, which means you may stall alot less.
#84
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Did you check your timing like I told you to? When the car is cold, the timing doesn't have a big effect on idle due to the bump up in RPM, however, when warm if your timing is too far retarded, it will not idle.
The throttle stop screw on the back side of the throttle body shouldn't ever be touched but you do need to check it and it might save you a hassle right now.
Do your self a favor, save your time and sanity, take it to Lexus and pay $95 for the diagnostic then fix the issue your self.
The throttle stop screw on the back side of the throttle body shouldn't ever be touched but you do need to check it and it might save you a hassle right now.
Do your self a favor, save your time and sanity, take it to Lexus and pay $95 for the diagnostic then fix the issue your self.
#85
The new mechanic called, says the code is for the MAF (same thing again). Obviously he suggests that I buy a new one vs used one that I bought last month. Says he'll give me a warranty for the part if I buy it through him of course. I believe new MAF units are $450+ correct? This is the third mechanic that has told me it's the MAF. I'm just going to do it unless someone else has any better ideas.
#86
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
maybe check all the wires on the maf make sure the connector isnt cracked; give it the wiggle test.
500+ for a new maf is alot when you are unsure of the problem.
you could get an VPC unit which runs off a map sensor (way better than maf) and works with the stock ecu for $3-400
you could run a JDM Gte ecu with map sensor and optionally vvti coils for close to the same amount (more wiring but very end result is good).
You could also get a used aem for 1k which would rid you of the maf and stock ecus forever.
500+ for a new maf is alot when you are unsure of the problem.
you could get an VPC unit which runs off a map sensor (way better than maf) and works with the stock ecu for $3-400
you could run a JDM Gte ecu with map sensor and optionally vvti coils for close to the same amount (more wiring but very end result is good).
You could also get a used aem for 1k which would rid you of the maf and stock ecus forever.
#87
Do you think this HKS VPC is worth $350?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...aptors-ac.html
Doesn't look too difficult to install: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/vpc/vpc.htm
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...aptors-ac.html
Doesn't look too difficult to install: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/vpc/vpc.htm
Last edited by Tabaka; 10-06-11 at 06:47 PM.
#88
Okay, here's the shot out of the cannon: Oprah, Barbara Walters, your wife. You gotta ***** one, marry one, kill one, go![/QUOTE]
lol step brothers ............. kill your current engine and marry the 1jz-gte
lol step brothers ............. kill your current engine and marry the 1jz-gte
#90
Can't man, already spent near $4,000 on this GE engine and it's a daily. I don't need the headache right now. This car is stock, and probably always will be since I don't have the mechanic skill or time. I can change parts, but troubleshooting and electrical glitches have never been my thing. Plus the mechanics that I've chosen obviously can't troubleshoot a simple problem...how can I trust anyone to work on a JDM engine? I had $3,500 to buy a 1JZ a few months ago, but everyone on this forum convinced me to keep my GE and get the 90k service.
The car is still at the mechanic. I begged someone for a ride into work today. I can probably pick up the car tomorrow, if I can get a ride there and see if I can test it the way you've requested. The problem with these mechanics is that they run a simple OBD1 scan, find out it's a MAF code and want to replace the part vs crimping the wires, check signals, and checking if there's a different issue.