Should I Buy a New Engine
10-07-11, 08:30 AM
#91
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There shouldn't be any issues crimping, etc. If all they are doing is scanning for a code and replacing a part, they need to quit working there and go work at Auto Zone. That's NOT even close to the proper way to diagnose a car.
All you need is a volt meter with ohm resistance on it.
All you need is a volt meter with ohm resistance on it.
10-07-11, 01:23 PM
#92
unfortunately that is what 95% of shops out there do, that is why we have to take our cars to Supra/SC shops for the best results. Its probably not the maf to be honest, they mostly work or dont work, not so much 2 mafs both giving you intermittent issues, doesnt sound right. you should take your car back and find someone who can really diagnose it and not read codes.
I would lean towards something being wrong in closed loop. maybe reset the ecu and disconnect the plugs for the front 2 o2 sensors and see what it does. if it works well after that it will narrow it down.
Also it would be nice to know the number of the code that pops up, Maf is code 31 i believe.
I would lean towards something being wrong in closed loop. maybe reset the ecu and disconnect the plugs for the front 2 o2 sensors and see what it does. if it works well after that it will narrow it down.
Also it would be nice to know the number of the code that pops up, Maf is code 31 i believe.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-07-11 at 01:28 PM.
10-08-11, 03:22 PM
#93
Had a new starter and power steering pump installed yesterday. I drove the car home and parked it out front of my house. I was about to move it in the garage a few minutes ago but the car won't start lol. The dome light is flickering and the door ajar light on the instrument panel is barely lit. The auto door locks won't work as well. I just installed a new battery last weekend. I'm assuming it's the alternator?
10-08-11, 04:59 PM
#94
Wow man your really in deep here.
Ive been there and it is no fun, sorry I have no advice other then what I learned from my experiance.
Take it to one good mechanic and let them deal with it.
If he recomends you get an MAF and it doesnt resolve the problem they are 'supposed' to cut you a break since it was a faulty diagnosis..
Im shocked you got 4 grand into this engine, that is a serious chunk of change.
Good luck!!
Ive been there and it is no fun, sorry I have no advice other then what I learned from my experiance.
Take it to one good mechanic and let them deal with it.
If he recomends you get an MAF and it doesnt resolve the problem they are 'supposed' to cut you a break since it was a faulty diagnosis..
Im shocked you got 4 grand into this engine, that is a serious chunk of change.
Good luck!!
10-08-11, 05:21 PM
#95
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Tell that ***** that you can have whatever hobby you want.
Buy a civic and use it as a daily. Save up for a gte swap.
edit: I guess I'm too late. Sucks you blew so much money on it.
Buy a civic and use it as a daily. Save up for a gte swap.
edit: I guess I'm too late. Sucks you blew so much money on it.
10-08-11, 05:34 PM
#96
Buy a brand new Power Steering Pump and Starter? Man you're never supposed to replace Toyota starters. Even when they are bad it's a few buck copper contact replacement fix. Power Steering pump. I've seen them go double that mileage without needing replacement.
Last edited by account2x; 10-08-11 at 05:39 PM.
10-08-11, 07:59 PM
#97
What can I say, it's a 20 year old vehicle with problems. Believe me, $4,000 grand wasn't spent on the engine alone. Mods, tires, shocks, brakes are a good chunk of that. I always take your guys advice when I can and I really appreciate the input. Unfortunately I came across an issue where my car would completely shut off at every stop light. I couldn't diagnose it so I brought it to a mechanic. I fixed the so-called problem with a newer/used MAF and then it happened again. Now the car won't start lol.
10-09-11, 04:09 PM
#98
Had a new starter and power steering pump installed yesterday. I drove the car home and parked it out front of my house. I was about to move it in the garage a few minutes ago but the car won't start lol. The dome light is flickering and the door ajar light on the instrument panel is barely lit. The auto door locks won't work as well. I just installed a new battery last weekend. I'm assuming it's the alternator?
10-09-11, 06:09 PM
#99
I disconnected the battery, lightly tapped the starter with a hammer, connected the battery again and it starts. It sounds TERRIBLE when I start it though. It's very "winey". I'll try it in the morning and see if it starts. Thanks for the help MDSC.
10-10-11, 06:20 AM
#101
Car started fine this morning. It was a little less whiny this time around. I did however notice a pitchy sound coming from the A/C condenser. Gonna fill it up with Freon and see if it helps. Also, the car didn't shut off 10 times on the way to work. In fact, the idle was around 1000 at every stop.
10-10-11, 09:29 AM
#103
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Car started fine this morning. It was a little less whiny this time around. I did however notice a pitchy sound coming from the A/C condenser. Gonna fill it up with Freon and see if it helps. Also, the car didn't shut off 10 times on the way to work. In fact, the idle was around 1000 at every stop.
10-10-11, 09:39 AM
#104
Car started fine this morning. It was a little less whiny this time around. I did however notice a pitchy sound coming from the A/C condenser. Gonna fill it up with Freon and see if it helps. Also, the car didn't shut off 10 times on the way to work. In fact, the idle was around 1000 at every stop.
10-10-11, 12:10 PM
#105
I get that feeling too Ali. I have my original ECU and never had any problems with it. The only reason why I swapped it was because I had light smoke at start up and after searching I found that people did a quick ECU swap which fixed the issue. And of course the funny thing is that the smoke still remains plus I have the idle issue now. Think I might just swap back to the original ECU and drive it for a few weeks.