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N/A power gains from tuning

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Old 05-09-11 | 03:03 PM
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Default N/A power gains from tuning

Now I know this isnt the route that many people take, but since many of us daily drive our 2JZGE cars, especially automatic ones, are there any ways to optimize the ECU in terms of adjustment such as with an SAFC or similar to improve the car a bit both in terms of power and fuel economy?

I know older Nissans ran pretty rich from the factory and by playing with fuel and timing you were able to gain power and increase MPGs.

What do you guys think / know in regards to the 2JZGE? I mean yes its essentially a N/A MKIV so I should be snooping around the Supra forums, but has anyone on here tried to mess with the N/A tune much ?
Old 05-09-11 | 03:13 PM
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safc2, safc neo - fuel only

expect to pickup some throttle response and some reduction in fuel consumption.

haltech, e-manage blue/ultimate piggyback - fuel and timing

looking at around 10% and tuned to around 12.5afr under full throttle
"with full exhaust with extractors, cai"
Old 05-09-11 | 03:56 PM
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a typical 2JZGE with intake exhaust and SAFC will put down close to ~200rwhp

thats up from ~175rwhp for a stock motor
Old 05-10-11 | 10:54 AM
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you can bump the distributor a little advanced if you are n/a to advance timing, but i wouldn't go too far with it.
if you do go to far you will notice it when its really hot outside, then back it off some.
Old 05-10-11 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by v8soarer91
safc2, safc neo - fuel only

expect to pickup some throttle response and some reduction in fuel consumption.

haltech, e-manage blue/ultimate piggyback - fuel and timing

looking at around 10% and tuned to around 12.5afr under full throttle
"with full exhaust with extractors, cai"
the perfect n/a afr for any engine is 12.8-13.1..just saying 12.5 is a little on a rich side at wide open throttle, you can also lean it out some on part throttle to around 13.9-14.3 under 50% throttle.
Old 05-11-11 | 08:57 AM
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That guy is from Austrailia, so I'm pretty sure automatically he's an engineer or something. This means he knows what he's talking about.

You want it "Rich" so you can keep the damn thing cool when you are beating it for 10 minutes at a time under full load.

13.1 Might be good for a blast or 2 with your 9 second motorcycle, but there is much more load to deal with in a car. What if he lives in Colorado?

Many things are factored into tuning, not just a hard set of numbers.

And you can't always tune to the edge of detonation, especially when you don't have race gas to play with all the time. I mean, if you do big ups, get that paper.

Why nitpick for three to six tenths of an AFR point? He said "Around".

I always shoot for an even 12.5 N/A AFR, but W/E.
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