luvmyaussy

Hey,

1993 SC400, 130k miles. Driving last week and steam from under hood. Engine low coolant light on first, then CEL came on. Was able to get back to parking lot. When I backed into space engine began to knock really bad and run rough. Raised hood to see steam coming from radiator. Turned off engine then tried to restart. Would not restart. Both lights still lit.

After about 30 minutes, I tried restarting. Car started fine and idled smooth. NO coolant light on or CEL. Turned off immediately and towed to mechanic.

Got car back today after new radiator replaced. No error lights. Drove on interstate up to 85 mph and car ran like normal. Went to car wash to wash off antifreeze from engine compartment. Left motor running and cleaned engine. Got back in car and it began running rough. Sounds almost like glasspacks through the exhust and rough idle. Got back on interstate, run back up to 80+. Stumbles a little when FOT but when RPMs come up it runs a little better.

Been searching forum and am seeing info about possible driver side coil pack, plug wire, plug, MAF. My questions:

Shouldn't the CEL stayed on once code was recorded?

Will CEL go out if problem goes away?

If coil pack is bad will the CEL light come on?

With anti-freeze being blown onto the engine from the leak in radiator and motor running rough, can I assume same problem after cleaning with pressure wash?

Can a coil pack be chaecked with a digital volt meter? (Ohms)

Coil packs look like they are only around $40 each. With the mileage should I just go ahead and replace?

Thanks for the advice.

LMA

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Sounds like you got water where it doesn't belong. I would pull the distributor caps and blow them out really well with compressed air to make sure they're dry. Also blow out the housing and around the rotor to make sure its all dry. Also make sure the igniter plug and other electrical connections are dry.

Sullen0313

you should never wash your engine... that's a stupid thing to do. you can blow headgaskets, break pistons, bend rods, crack blocks, etc. don't forget about all those electrical things under your hood that shouldn't get wet that you probably soaked. last time i checked, you don't wanna throw your cell phone in the pool. the car is pretty much the same way. that probably wasn't the brightest idea...

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

I don't know about blowing head gaskets but you definitely have water in the spark plug galley now. Pull the plug wires and get some compressed air or distributor cap de-water stuff (makes the water dry up quickly) and blow them out. You'll have to pull the throttle body like you're changing plugs to get to the middle ones.

luvmyaussy

If moisture, should problem correct once moisture evaporates? Is there a way to check a coil?

Will take off dist cover and check for cracks and such.

Thank you

Lma

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

You definitely need to take the cover off but you also need to pull the spark plug wire off the top of the spark plugs.

The valley gets water in it and the spark takes the path of best ground (your engine block with water versus the spark plug)

luvmyaussy

Thank you. Will do.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

if you sprayed the top of the engine, your coil wires are probably submerged in water. I wouldn't even try to start it. soak up all the water, take out and dry all the coil boots, or air compressor most of it off, and hopefully the engine will fire and burn off any water that may have wet the plugs.

luvmyaussy

Ali- that's what I can't figure. I drove the car home and set in garage overnight. Wife drove to work this morn and said car was still "missing". She said it was at all speeds she said it felt like she was driving into a headwind. Gonna pull dizzy this eve and take a peek. Gonna pull plug boots too.

If a code was issued cause of the coolant problem, might the ecu still be trying to compensate? Don't think mechanic reset compooter after he put in new rad.

Lma

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

No, you've got water in the spark plug galley - there is nothing else wrong.

I did it and many others have done it cleaning the motor off. I had the same issue when mine had water in it, I had to take the top off to get to the plugs and spent an hour cleaning and spraying out any water.

luvmyaussy

Might have it whipped but need help with what "it" is and where it attaches.

Was doing what you all suggested this evening and came across some type of sensor dangling from the harness on the driver side. If you are looking at the coil on the driver side there are three wires that branch off the main harness. This sensor has one wire out of the top. The other end is metal and looks like it should attach somewhere with a bolt or screw which I assume is a grounding point. I jumped the metal end to ground and started the car. Seems to idle better but would really like to know what this sensor is and where the heck it attaches cause I can't see where.

Thanks for the help.

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

Take a picture and post it on here

There are two main grounding points that bolt to the bottom side of the Lower Intake Manifold.

luvmyaussy

Hello all,

Just a note of thanks for the ideas and suggestions. You all were right. Just had moisture in the wiring. Car is back to running like a scalded dog and wife is again crawling all over me since she got her "precious" back (not me, the car.)

I also found shop manual online. According to manual, the sensor is a noise filter for the driver side coil.

You all are the greatest!

LMA