Car running Rich all of a sudden
07-03-11, 07:49 AM
#16
Driver School Candidate
Sorry that did not work out. IAT was working fine too or did you even fiddle with it at all? The only thing else I can suggest is to run the car on idle since you say it's idling bad and disconnect the IAT plug to see if the car's idling gets worse. If there is no change when the IAT is unplugged, you might want to try out a spare unit just to see if that will make a difference. I'm hoping this will be the problem because at this point, I can't think of anything else. Good luck.
07-03-11, 09:18 AM
#17
do you mean IAC? if so i haven't try it yet but will in a little bit. i do have an aftermarket IAT on the intercooler piping for the Map Ecu 2 but i've disabled it so right now all it's doing is reading the temperature of the engine bay.
Last edited by SC300_704; 07-03-11 at 09:23 AM.
07-03-11, 10:08 AM
#18
your symptoms sound exactly like having a non-recirculated BOV on the stock maf, and it shouldn't be happening with the map ecu. maybe double check your maps cause its still looking up the tables based on load and sending that value to the ecu. that value could be making it run too rich, which is what causes the car to stall/almost stall (usually the harder you get on it before you go to neutral, the more it will want to stall).
you can watch which cells it hits under those conditions on the map ecu and try decreasing the fuel in those load areas (probably the lowest load cells).
it could also have something to do with your map sensor or where its plumbed, like if something was causing it to react slowly for some reason.
you can watch which cells it hits under those conditions on the map ecu and try decreasing the fuel in those load areas (probably the lowest load cells).
it could also have something to do with your map sensor or where its plumbed, like if something was causing it to react slowly for some reason.
07-03-11, 10:31 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Maybe I should actually start a thread inquiring on the degree of difficulty of tuning the MAP ECU (original version) unit for my car and how it might compare with the SAFC2 with regards to the ease of operation, use, and tuning.
07-03-11, 02:09 PM
#20
your symptoms sound exactly like having a non-recirculated BOV on the stock maf, and it shouldn't be happening with the map ecu. maybe double check your maps cause its still looking up the tables based on load and sending that value to the ecu. that value could be making it run too rich, which is what causes the car to stall/almost stall (usually the harder you get on it before you go to neutral, the more it will want to stall).
you can watch which cells it hits under those conditions on the map ecu and try decreasing the fuel in those load areas (probably the lowest load cells).
it could also have something to do with your map sensor or where its plumbed, like if something was causing it to react slowly for some reason.
you can watch which cells it hits under those conditions on the map ecu and try decreasing the fuel in those load areas (probably the lowest load cells).
it could also have something to do with your map sensor or where its plumbed, like if something was causing it to react slowly for some reason.
Yes I meant IAC. Sorry about the typo. The issue with the unrecirculated BOV is a common occurrence with our NA-T's but I was of the assumption that the stalling problem was something that you are only now experiencing and as ALI SC3 said, this usually only happens after you've gone on boost and suddenly let off the gas pedal. It is a problem more prevalent with manual tranny sc's and happens a bit less often with the automatics. I don't know the exact reason why this is so.I can't help you on the MAP ECU because I actually have a brand new unit sitting in my garage that I chose not to install due to degree of difficulty tuning it for our particular vehicle (or so I am told). Maybe I just chickened out too soon. I have opted to try out the safc2 for now. I also don't think the MAP ECU will have something to do with your rough idle but I don't know if this unit alters the fuel trim even in closed loop. I wouldn't put much stock on my opinion re the MAP ECU though because all info I have on it is second hand.
Maybe I should actually start a thread inquiring on the degree of difficulty of tuning the MAP ECU (original version) unit for my car and how it might compare with the SAFC2 with regards to the ease of operation, use, and tuning.
Maybe I should actually start a thread inquiring on the degree of difficulty of tuning the MAP ECU (original version) unit for my car and how it might compare with the SAFC2 with regards to the ease of operation, use, and tuning.
now i have to wait till Tuesday to go to Toyota to order me that plug. i cranked the engine on w/o the harness being plugged in and now it's revving to 2k-1k back and forth so i guess the IAC is still good?
07-05-11, 02:37 PM
#21
Driver School Candidate
I found the problem to my car which was behaving like yours. Mine had a bad ecu. It's a good thing I checked the forum more thoroughly because we were already thinking it was a blown HG and what it was is a stuck injector (#5) that is flooding the cylinder. The injector is stuck open because some capacitors in the ecu are already leaking causing the injector to remain open. You just might want to check if your injector is doing the same. If it is, you know where your problem lies. I am going to attempt having the capacitors replaced and see if that will work because apparently our models (from 92-94) are the ones that have been suffering the most problems. Buying a used ecu out there will be a hit or miss unless you would rather get a new one which runs about $1500 from the dealership. I hope this isnt what your problem is but you might want to check
07-05-11, 09:36 PM
#22
I found the problem to my car which was behaving like yours. Mine had a bad ecu. It's a good thing I checked the forum more thoroughly because we were already thinking it was a blown HG and what it was is a stuck injector (#5) that is flooding the cylinder. The injector is stuck open because some capacitors in the ecu are already leaking causing the injector to remain open. You just might want to check if your injector is doing the same. If it is, you know where your problem lies. I am going to attempt having the capacitors replaced and see if that will work because apparently our models (from 92-94) are the ones that have been suffering the most problems. Buying a used ecu out there will be a hit or miss unless you would rather get a new one which runs about $1500 from the dealership. I hope this isnt what your problem is but you might want to check
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