1997 SC300 2JZ-GTE current swap step by step
08-15-11, 10:51 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
1997 SC300 2JZ-GTE current swap step by step
I am in Charleston, SC and doing the Aristo 2jzgte Auto tranny swap into my 97 SC300 Auto. The car is black with 2008 gs wheels powdercoated black. Lowered with tanabe springs and front badge shaved, black rear emblems, and front bumper resprayed. I have a 6500 dollar budget and will update and list every part that has been purchased and where I got it. I am using my buddies car so I have a deadline of a month before he gets off his ship(merchant marine) and then I will not have a car. So it has to be finished by sep 16 no matter what. Here is the parts list to start with which will most likely increase. I am pulling the stock motor out tom night, or starting it once I get off work. My plan is to run on the twins and have around 400-450 wheel while keeping daily driver status. I will upgrade turbos, fuel system, etc. down the road. I am just looking to keep it reliable as possible.
Parts to order
1. Supra water pump-ordered
2. Supra thermostat
3. Supra power steering resevoir
4. Supra p/s hoses
5. Supra throttle cable-ordered
6. Supra front mount with stock twins specific piping-ordered
7. Downpipe for jdm twins...Not sure which fit the jdm twins. Suggestions?
8. Supra oem radiator hoses-ordered
9. Aftermarket radiator(koyo or mizu)
10. Tranny cooler
11. Twin electric fans with shroud or supra fan with stock sc300 shroud, not sure yet
12. I live about 18 miles from Dr. tweak so I will be purchasing a new custom wiring harness(plug and play) for Aristo into an SC300) $1400 for new harness so hopefully sell Aristo and SC harness for some money.
13. I have to contact Dr. tweak to find out if new harness will support A/C, fuel pump, and tach. if not I will tackle them seperately.
14. Supra denso fuel pump- ordered
15. New Vacuum hoses
16. Supra oem heater hoses
17. I am using my SC oil pan (rear sump). Should I get a new oil pump while I'm there?
18. SC400 driveshaft.... I read on another build that this is a direct fit for Aristo. Suggestions?
19. Oil drain kit for jdm twins if needed
20. Coolant overflow kit from suprastore-ordered
If I'm leaving something out let me know
Parts ordered
1. JDM Aristo 2JZGTE non-vvti W/ Auto tranny, all accessories, wiring harness, ecu. Price $2307 shipped to SC. Purchased with www.jdmenginedepot.com
2. Supra front mount intercooler kit with radiator overflow kit from suprastore.com $480 shipped
3. Supra water pump full housing suprastore.com $130 shipped
4. Supra radiator hose kit suprastore.com black $75 shipped
5. New plug and play wire harness for 2jzgte into sc300 from tweakedperformance.com (dr. tweak) $1700, now I really need to sell the stock harnesses to make some money back. Will take 400 for both of them, includes full aristo harness and full SC300 harness with ecu.
6. Supra tt denso fuel pump $245 shipped suprastore.com
7. Supra tt oem throttle cable $75 horsepowerfreaks.com
8. HKS SSQv4 with flange $318 shipped from titanmotorsports.com
Last edited by scthreegte; 08-18-11 at 08:52 PM.
08-15-11, 10:53 PM
#2
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Motor has arrived!!
It arrived and after a quick lookover it definately got some road rash on the way to SC. Not sure if it looked like this leaving jdmenginedepot or if got bumped around on the 18 wheeler. Either way I will be sending these pics over to them. First picture is the igniter which took a pretty nasty hit.
This second picture is the chipped crank pulley
This sensor on the turbo inlet was also damaged
Another broken connector/sensor coming from valve cover
This fitting for 2 vacuum hoses coming off power steering was snapped off, the plastic piece remains in the vacuu hose.
This is a bracket broken off on tranny
Yesterday I ripped out the pass seat, rear seat, pass door trim, trunk coverings, spare tire, jack, tire changing tools, old school 12 disc cd changer which went straight to trash, and hood.
Today was a productive day. Started off with removing valve cover & upper timing belt cover
Then came the awesome task of taking off the crank pulley bolt, pulley, and balancer. I sourced a couple of different ways to do this and the first didn't work out. Trying to thread bolts into the crank pulley ended up snapping grade 8 bolts, one inside the crank pulley. 1 point 2jz, 0 me. So I called supra store and asked if they had any good info. I tried putting an extension through the window in the tranny to hold flexplate still. This just wedged the extension in between the two with the amount of torque when turned over. I just needed something that wouldn't shift but still fit behind flexplate. I had a double sided ratchet with 3/8 on one side and 1/4 on the other. The 1/4 side was just enough to sit behind flexplate
Now all you need is a friend that weighs over 200 to hold the motor down, 8 miller lights, a 6 foot extended breaker bar, and some anti-***** elbow grease.
It arrived and after a quick lookover it definately got some road rash on the way to SC. Not sure if it looked like this leaving jdmenginedepot or if got bumped around on the 18 wheeler. Either way I will be sending these pics over to them. First picture is the igniter which took a pretty nasty hit.
This second picture is the chipped crank pulley
This sensor on the turbo inlet was also damaged
Another broken connector/sensor coming from valve cover
This fitting for 2 vacuum hoses coming off power steering was snapped off, the plastic piece remains in the vacuu hose.
This is a bracket broken off on tranny
Yesterday I ripped out the pass seat, rear seat, pass door trim, trunk coverings, spare tire, jack, tire changing tools, old school 12 disc cd changer which went straight to trash, and hood.
Today was a productive day. Started off with removing valve cover & upper timing belt cover
Then came the awesome task of taking off the crank pulley bolt, pulley, and balancer. I sourced a couple of different ways to do this and the first didn't work out. Trying to thread bolts into the crank pulley ended up snapping grade 8 bolts, one inside the crank pulley. 1 point 2jz, 0 me. So I called supra store and asked if they had any good info. I tried putting an extension through the window in the tranny to hold flexplate still. This just wedged the extension in between the two with the amount of torque when turned over. I just needed something that wouldn't shift but still fit behind flexplate. I had a double sided ratchet with 3/8 on one side and 1/4 on the other. The 1/4 side was just enough to sit behind flexplate
Now all you need is a friend that weighs over 200 to hold the motor down, 8 miller lights, a 6 foot extended breaker bar, and some anti-***** elbow grease.
08-15-11, 10:54 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
And success!
Now to set timing, so I used one of the non broken grade 8 bolts m8-1.25 40mm threaded into crank pulley and used a wrench as leverage and easily turned crank over to set the timing.
I then removed the A/C pump and P/S pump with brackets
With a quick trip to Park's auto parts open till midnight, grabbed a 8" pulley puller and removed the harmonic balancer and crank pulley.
With those out of the way I was finally able to get to last two lower timing belt cover bolts, timing belt tensioner bolts, and water pump outer housing.
and calling it a night.
So yesterday I removed the fenderwell plastic, undercarriage, front bumper, intake and maf plumbing, throttle control, and coil. I also drained engine oil and coolant.
I had to work till 10:30pm tonight so I got a late start. I needed to tackle the fuel pump because I have a Supra tt denso pump coming. I am including the step by step process of removing the stock sc300 fuel pump which is easy but with pictures and directions even easier. so here
Unclip these two wires
the fuel pump access panel is behind the rear seat, remove it with a scraper comes right off . Then take the bolts off, these are 10mm.
Once you get that undone there should be three nuts you have to take off
Undo those and fuel pump and plumbing should come right out after disconnecting rubber lines.
The last thing to do is remove filter bag on bottom of filter, there was a circular clip on the bottom which was not fun to take off and it definately shot off into the garage somewhere so It looks like i'll be having to buy a new one. This is the bottom of the fuel pump after everything is taken off.
I contacted the carrier who delivered the motor, and filed a claim about the damaged items in shipping. They are supposed to let me know tomorrow if they are going to replace the broken parts, pay me what I paid for the engine, or I'm **** out of luck. Lets hope for one of the first two.
Now to set timing, so I used one of the non broken grade 8 bolts m8-1.25 40mm threaded into crank pulley and used a wrench as leverage and easily turned crank over to set the timing.
I then removed the A/C pump and P/S pump with brackets
With a quick trip to Park's auto parts open till midnight, grabbed a 8" pulley puller and removed the harmonic balancer and crank pulley.
With those out of the way I was finally able to get to last two lower timing belt cover bolts, timing belt tensioner bolts, and water pump outer housing.
and calling it a night.
So yesterday I removed the fenderwell plastic, undercarriage, front bumper, intake and maf plumbing, throttle control, and coil. I also drained engine oil and coolant.
I had to work till 10:30pm tonight so I got a late start. I needed to tackle the fuel pump because I have a Supra tt denso pump coming. I am including the step by step process of removing the stock sc300 fuel pump which is easy but with pictures and directions even easier. so here
Unclip these two wires
the fuel pump access panel is behind the rear seat, remove it with a scraper comes right off . Then take the bolts off, these are 10mm.
Once you get that undone there should be three nuts you have to take off
Undo those and fuel pump and plumbing should come right out after disconnecting rubber lines.
The last thing to do is remove filter bag on bottom of filter, there was a circular clip on the bottom which was not fun to take off and it definately shot off into the garage somewhere so It looks like i'll be having to buy a new one. This is the bottom of the fuel pump after everything is taken off.
I contacted the carrier who delivered the motor, and filed a claim about the damaged items in shipping. They are supposed to let me know tomorrow if they are going to replace the broken parts, pay me what I paid for the engine, or I'm **** out of luck. Lets hope for one of the first two.
