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gte swap

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Old 08-19-11, 02:32 PM
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lex92sc300
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yea was thinking about trying a utillity knife,,, guess thats next step i gotta get it off...and just a few pics of parts i have to go in











Old 08-19-11, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by stockhatch
Make sure you get the bolts towards the very rear of the pan on the outside. They kinda hide behind the raised ribs where it starts to flare out for the bell housing. I missed them the first time and couldn't figure out why the pan would not break loose. Once I found and removed them it popped right off.
yea i got those and still no go going try slipping utillity knife in there and see if i can slide it
Old 08-19-11, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by stockhatch
Make sure you get the bolts towards the very rear of the pan on the outside. They kinda hide behind the raised ribs where it starts to flare out for the bell housing. I missed them the first time and couldn't figure out why the pan would not break loose. Once I found and removed them it popped right off.
yea removed them allready going try utillity knife see if that will break it i hope the other pan is not this hard to remove,
Old 08-20-11, 09:58 AM
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I dont have bunch time work on so i get what i can done. As work permits so ill update. When i make more progress some of the progress is slowed down as i search for information on what can be deleted and what i need keep. On tthe new motor and where some sensors go and where i hook up gauges.
Old 08-20-11, 10:10 AM
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1JZPWRD
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I will be checking back often on this thread.
Old 08-28-11, 02:59 PM
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finally got it off had it hooked to tractor so was kinda scared get all way under it with out it being on a stand but today got it high enuff to see i missed two bolts came right off after that .. need drill and tap it now...
still looking for info on removing the pressure tank. and water lines to manifold and some other things .... have to get the oil pan off the gte . put ge on....replace timing belt and water pump ...install turbo and route the oil lines and put wiring harness on. drop motor in and finish up fuel lines ,fuel pumps and plug it all in to computer ...

Last edited by lex92sc300; 08-28-11 at 03:29 PM. Reason: add
Old 08-29-11, 08:32 PM
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oil pan drilled and taped
Old 08-29-11, 09:42 PM
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Ali SC3
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good build so far, biggest piece of advice i can give you is while you have the oil pan off get the fitting for the return welded on. I did the drill and tap method and even with a gasket the thing starts leaking eventually. I wish I had taken it off and gotten it welded.
Old 08-30-11, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
good build so far, biggest piece of advice i can give you is while you have the oil pan off get the fitting for the return welded on. I did the drill and tap method and even with a gasket the thing starts leaking eventually. I wish I had taken it off and gotten it welded.
What type fitting you did you use did it have the rubber o ring got any pics of your fitting for yor return.
Old 08-30-11, 08:00 AM
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I always weld the fitting to the pan to avoid oil leak, that's one thing i can't stand no matter where it's coming from .. here is my setup


Old 08-30-11, 11:34 AM
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i think i going try the bolt on with cork gasket first
Old 08-30-11, 12:21 PM
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Think going get it welded tomorrow yall convinced me i think lol
Old 08-30-11, 02:04 PM
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this what i have
Old 08-30-11, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by lex92sc300
What type fitting you did you use did it have the rubber o ring got any pics of your fitting for yor return.
its a similar fitting but it has a female 3/8" instead of the AN flare. I had to use a 3/8" to 8an fitting on it but the side to the block is the same, flat with the 3 holes. I have tried various gaskets from cork to the paper kind, but now im trying just RTV black tube which is the oil resistant kind, I am hoping that will do the trick.

welding is a good idea its one less thing you will ever have to worry about, especially if you like to take hard left turns.
Old 08-31-11, 12:24 AM
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this is looking great man, what turbo you running?


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