TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

While I wanted to do a full DIY yesterday, I ran out of time and patience to hold the camera and due to the fact some a-hole stole my light ("borrowed") I had to use my LED on my iPhone 4 as my primary source of lighting.

Valve Cover Gasket & EGR DIY TIPS
[in no particular order]

• You'll need at least a 12MM, 10MM, 8MM, 14MM deep and shallow sockets.
• I highly recommend a universal joint aka "Wobble Joint" and three different extension sizes.
• If you've got a 12MM ratcheting wrench you'll be able to take the side nuts on the Y-Pipe easier.
• Remove the braces from the head to the UIM. Your hands will thank you.
• Unbolt the wiring harness from the firewall. Your hands will thank you.
• Remove the brake booster vacuum line and remove the bracket that holds it on the firewall. I cut my self about 10 times yesterday on this and could have prevented it by removing one stupid bolt.
• Do not pull the spark plugs out from the dizzy cap, wait until you pull the Y piece then pull them all out at once from the head and keep them in their brackets so you can easily replace without having to reorganize and redo them all.
• CLEAN the spark plug galleys out, your spark plug wires will not ground out to the head anymore instead of the plug.
• Use a RUBBER mallet and a cloth to "bump" the valve covers loose once all the bolts have been removed. Also, use a screw driver flat blade and MF cloth and poke the galley where the old gasket was to scrape out the crud and dirt before putting a new gasket in.
• Make sure and use FIPG from Lexus/Toyota on the front where Lexus calls for it, NOT RTV. RTV won't hold up as long from my viewings on the two material and is easier to break the seal and cause a leak (i.e. my case and why I had to do it).
• Get a BATTERY terminal cleaner, it looks like a little mushroom but one end comes off and is the PERFECT size to clean out the EGR holes Stick her in there and twist away occasionally removing to let all the carbon fall out that you've debarred.
• Use a flat head screw driver, and brake cleaner after you've removed your Y-piece and TB to chisel all the carbon away. DO NOT SCRAPE THE TB BUTTERFLY. Your throttle response will more than likely be twice as good once you get it back together.
• Pull the spark plugs, and clean them with a MF cloth. Also clean the spark plug holes out, they have oil built up in them and will ground out.
• Use a volt meter and inspect your spark plug wires as it's easy to get to now.
• Have a torque wrench on hand, 75 IN/LB is a very specific measurement that I wouldn't recommend trying to go on with a FT/LB wrench.
• Flash lights. Two of them at least, you'll figure out why when you drop a bolt.
• Layer the area below your intake manifold with towels so when you drop a bolt or nut, you'll be able to find it (my hardest task of yesterday).
• Get some tape, so when you have to put on the y-piece nuts, you won't have to worry about dropping it or it falling out into the abyss.
• Clean ALL the ports out on the y-piece and throttle body. I had to use an entire can of brake cleaner and a very strong straw to decrud the EGR port on the y-piece and even then it still was coming out easily.
• Have vacuum hoses on hand for replacement, or if you're feeling spunky, this is the time to replace them all.
• Get a gasket kit with the spark plug cover gaskets in it. The one I had, you have to pull the little nub up through the hole but be careful as it will tear. I tore 25% of the nubs on accident so ended up super gluing it to the metal (oh well).
• Get TWO EGR gaskets, Fel-Pros look and work great.
• While the valve covers are off, clean up the camshafts and valve covers with a microfiber cloth.
• When you go to reseat the valve covers, I recommend pouring some oil on the lobes just to prelube them BEFORE using the FIPG.
• Pull the EFI fuse before starting the car to prevent it from starting fully until you've gotten about ten rotations in. This is to lubricate the top end without putting pressure on it. Replace the fuse and start her up.
• Torque to spec, Torque to Spec, Torque to spec, Torque to Spec!

People might be wondering why not just remove the EGR and save your self the hassle? It helps in keeping cylinder temperature down (I had to double check that fact, but it does indeed "balance" the temperature. Most people I've seen have a surging issue with idle once removed because the AF/R is balance on cold start for the aided exhaust gases. If you had a stand alone, it wouldn't be a big deal.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I'm doing this job now.

That's a boss vacuum diagram too, thanks for that.

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

Great write-up. Thanks.