StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

Got this one right, all the other plugs on the engine harness aren't needed, same setup is on my car right now

How is the starter wired up right now? Is there any extra wiring done to activate the starter? Something tells me the former owner might have had the same problems i was having but wired in his own stuff just to get it going.

soaring72

iTrader: (4)

re-did the timing, installed another crank pos sensor, intalled 2 more cam angle sensors, tried a diff alternator off of a 2jz-ge since thats what was on it already. installed a couple more grounds, body to block, batt to body to block and head, and a ground from the head to firewall... nothing.......

2 wires coming from the clutch pedal button , 1 wire is just hanging there and the other wire goes to the clutch pedal button through the fire wall to a wire coming from the fuse box harness... i tried disconnecting that wire and starting it but there starter would not engage, hmmm, im still out here trying to figure this **** out. feel free to give me a call or text me with some advise lol seriously 2035600417

soaring72

iTrader: (4)

i forgot to mention, behind the radio and climate control is a ****ing electrical jungle, someone cut and soldered wires everywhere!!! climate control does not work btw, could this have anything to do with it?

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

Your revs revving up looked really slow up to 4k RPM, it almost seemed like it was only firing 4/6 cylinders imo (almost blowing out the spark).

Did you spec out the TPS to proper resistance - people go around adjusting these blindly on Club Lexus which I think is crazy. On the automatic it will adjust the firmness, shift points, and adjust the ability of the intake butterfly to open (earlier, later, etc). I set mine to spec and refuse to change it anymore.

The wire going to your pedal is probably for the clutch pedal sensor that will tell the cars ECU whether or not you can start the car (i.e. if you have the pedal held down, start, released not) and those sensors are usually 12V but are broken to 0V when the pedal is pushed or vice versa [sometimes a ground is used as well]. Again, this is assuming it has a sensor - I have an automatic so not sure (some people bypass these and ground them out in other cars when the switch goes bad, allowing you to start the car regardless of pedal position).

It really sounds to me like its struggling getting up but I'm used to seeing my 2JZGE rev and not 1JZGTE. Have you checked the timing (or I'm assuming it's dizzyless?).

soaring72

iTrader: (4)

timing is on point, re-did it twice and was on point. 1jz so no dizzy.

im concerned about the TPS, it came off of my other motor which has TRAC, and this motor does not. Would that have anything to do with it? how do i spec out the TPS? i head ppl talking about re-calibrating the TPS etc. what all do i need to do??? sry my ADD is getting to me at this point, today was literally a 14 hour day working on this POS,im fed-up...

tonight after going through everything, my and my buddy decided to take it for a ride and get some fresh gas in it. it was VERY sluggish and still wont go over 4k, took forever to get there, you can hear the turbo spooling but the car isnt going anywhere. once i got to the gas station down the street, the manifold was BRIGHT RED!!! and saw some residue that must have blown out of the turbo inlet, i figured it was compressor surge... but finally left the gas station to go home, i tried stepping on it in 3rd gear, 3k rpm's and the IC/charge pipe blew off of the turbo... but i felt NO BOOST!!!!! this is getting VERY frustrating. ive spent so much time trying to figure this crap out and i get nowhere. I ALSO FORGOT TO MENTION, the oil level light does come on about 10 secs after starting the car,and it doesnt go away. and its still throwing a code 12. why could that be????

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

Specing out a TPS is in the FSM - being TRAC shouldn't matter. All it is is a dial that when you rotate is at x voltage and thats how the comptuer knows your throttle (to operate other things, like turn the fuel pump from low voltage to high, etc).

That was going to be my next place to tell you to look. When I had an intercooler pipe coupler cracked on my Supercoupe it would act like that, it would go but just go really slow (supercharger was in essence over worked).

I did hear your BOV flutter at idle when revving - I was always told flutter = bad, it needs to either release fully or stay shut. What BOV are you running? If it's staying open or closed when it's supposed to be the opposite it could release all boost.

soardrft

iTrader: (8)

The stuttering I would check
coil packs small cracks makes a difference
12v mod
Air hose on intake and throttle body
Sensors below the throttle body
Idle control valve spring
Bov
And pull plugs again to see what they look like
If you have trac throttle body make sure it is opening and closing properly

If those are in order then I would
Compression check
See if anything is in intercooler pipes or intercooler
Check turbo shaft play or thrust bearing
Check your cat for any blockage. With your manifold heating up that's odd to me.
Verify your wastegate is opening

You stated you changed ecu please confirm because if all of those things check out it could be a bad ecu.

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

"-The engine will no rev past 3,000rpm....will update this too
These two were fixed by clipping the black wire on the white body plug next to the orange one (keep in mind, this is for a 95’ car, I believe its different on older ones), but you may have starter issues with this, I wired mine directly to the battery with a flip switch.
…During my swap, I coulnt rev over 3-4k rpms, I got a code 12 signal, bought the replacement cam position sensors, and didn’t need them once I clipped the black wire on the white body plug next to the orange one.

I sent my ECU to JestR tuning in Orlando and had Edrick change some bad caps on the Ecu to see if this would solve any issues , it didn’t solve them but I feel better knowing that the ECU is in better shape, and for $50, it was well worth it.
"

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ventually.html

edit: nevermind, someone already said that..

idk if this would help but try the 12v mod
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...tures-faq.html

and fix your temp gauge buy taking your cluster out and jumping R109 with a small wire and solder. it might not be exactly where it is in this picture but just look on the board and youll find it somewhere!

look here for your error code: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...cps-issue.html

i had the same error code, it was because i had squashed my crank sensor wire between the alternator and the block. because they go right behind each other, id loosen up your alt, and see if its crushed.

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

This isn't for the temp gauge fix, this is to fix you tachometer which he has already shown works in his vid. The temp gauge fix involves grounding a wire off one of the body plugs, do a search and you'll find it

Check out my write up in my sig about the revving problem during a 1JZ swap. This is sounding more and more like what i went though, although i am very concerned about the extra wiring the previous owner attempted/did. if you have any questions shoot me a PM and i'll try to walk you through it

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

Almost, the sound you are hearing is called "Compressor surge".

It's the air escaping the compressor cover when the BOV can't bypass the air quickly enough when the throttle plate shuts.

I know it has a "Flutter" sound, but it is a commonly mis-used term to call Compressor Surge, "BOV Flutter".

The manifold glowing suggests that your timing is retarded.

Since the code you are throwing is the CAS, and the CAS is responsible for telling the ECU cam timing in regards to Ignition timing, your issue must be timing.

This is why I hate picking up other people's "Projects". They usually turn to nightmares.

Vwpride12

I would check the ignitor wiring. If someone mixed up those wires the coils could be firing out of order. That might also explain the red hot manifold. We had a car that someone did that and it idled semi-fine but misfired when under load. It should be pretty easy to do. Just a thought...

TechGreek

iTrader: (4)

I didn't know the specific behind compressor surge on that front - I didn't realize it came out the cover I assumed the BOV didn't have enough pressure to stay open basically pulsing the valve instead of staying fully open.

I didn't see the manifold issue, fuel and timing are a huge factor in that. Do you have any cats left as well?

I refuse to take on anothers project as well.

VC455

It looks like way too many things are going on. It's time to stop and start from the basics. It is quite possible that you have more than one problem. Double check the engine mechanicals like valve timing and spark timing to TDC. Pull the turbo to ensure that it is free to move with the proper amount of play and that the oil drain is working. Then work on determining where all the loose wires are coming from, terminate them correctly, and verify that any wiring that has been messed with is correct. You may be at risk of catching your car on fire with the description you have given. I would do all of this prior to driving it again. It looks like you have some long days ahead.

soaring72

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Vwpride, that was probly the most helpful info, havent tried it yet because the weathers been ****ty, but makes the most sence
ive done it all....