i have a 95 sc300 automatic with the stock 2jz-ge motor, t.70 turbo kit installed, 650cc injectors, walbro 255lph fuel pump, adjustable fpr set to 20 lph, turbo set to 12 lbs, no tuning device, running rich as hell, if i hit the gas too hard it will start to stall around 3000-5000rpm, black smoke from exhaust..if i use the v8 MAF will it help my it lean itself out a little so it can run better?
also have 3" downpipe bolted onto stock resonator and stock duals which are 2.5" i believe..can that cause any problems, cause my turbo has problems spooling also...

 

get an afc bro or better yet an aem....that stock computer is confused as all hell...

 

dnt those run about 1000$? or is there any one that i can get cheaper..i kno da afc isnt dat expensive..n i just want da car 2 run a lil betta 4 now cuz im doin a 2jz-gte swap later on..but im throwing away all my fuel ryt now..it gets terrrrrrrible gas mileage..lol

 

afc, ,map ecu1/2 run like 200-300 max, pay someone to do some tuning on your car and not only will you get better gas mileage but more power. It can also save your turbo from dying too early.

 

Wow! Im surprised your EMS hasnt shut the car down yet.....Where to start with your issues .....You absolutely need something to control your fuel!......What are you using to control boost?
Even with a well tuned AFC and 12 lbs of boost you're pushing it if you are driving at stock compression, big injectors and a stock A/T....all these things need to be addressed among other things, I'm not trying to be a **** but I wouldn't start your car at this point let alone drive it in its current state.

 

+1
need to research on what your doing a little more
that high compression isnt going to like running that much boost on pump gas
i would turn the boost down and pick up a piggyback or fuel controller of some kind to tune your car
there's actually someone selling an safc2 in the classifieds right now and they are not too difficult to tune

 

You have a stock ECU and 600cc injectors and want to control with a SAFC?

I explain why you can't do this, in this thread:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...gle-turbo.html

You have a 255 Walbro and 650's on a ECU that controls 330cc injectors.

To even idle you are asking the ECU to decrease fuel pulse by 35% or better.

This will result in a dangerous timing bump, because you are tricking the ECU to "Think" there is 35% less air coming in to dial in the injectors.

If the ECU thinks there is less air coming in, it will compensate by increasing the timing, which results in detonation, which leaves you with a broken 2JZ.

Cliff's notes:

-Re-install your stock injectors (Just do it.)
-Turn the boost down to 8-10psi (You have no tuning, so you can't be picky about this)
-Turn the FPR back to the industry standard of 40psi at idle with the hose OFF. This is the only "Tuning" you have.

Drive it this way until you install your GTE swap.

Have a nice day!

 

Like stated above, install back your stock injectors and turn down the boost to 8psi and maybe install a v8maf till you swap out to gte

 

thanx everyone yall were a big help..btw i dnt drive it at all, i work on it everyday, and i already blew 1 2jzge, im on my second one and im tryna get everything ryt b4 i hit da road wit it..dnt think ima do a gte swap anytime soon so im changing head gasket, wats a gud size head gasket 2 lower compression ratio enough 2 run 10-15 psi?

 

If you gonna do na-t You Must run a Standalone or the stock tt or Aristo ECU the safc stuff is a waste of time.

replace the hG with the tt headgasket and you should be fine till 17 psi on 93 octane.

gl

 

thnx bro..is da stock tt or aristo ecu tuneable or would i still need piggybak 4 it? or do i just plug it in and go?

 

I think you are still a little too hung up on "How much Boost can I get" ,and not enough "What's the safest, most reliable way to tune my NA-T?"

They are not EPROM chippable, that's why the MAP ECU/FIC are the best options for running the Stock ECU.

The GTE ECU will control larger injectors then the GE ones, run on Speed-Density (MAP), and have coil-on plug ignitions.

I think you would have fun with a good MLS Headgasket, your 650's, a FIC, and a GTE ECU and Harness.

It'll run so good, you'll probably forget about the TT swap!

 

I think the problem is that the OP doesn't want to spend the money on a piggyback and doesn't understand how to tune. 12lbs of boost isn't too difficult to tune. Just throw in some MKIII turbo 440s and set your FPR to around 36 PSI. Or Buy a wideband, piggyback and replace the headgasket.

 

Read this.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-odb1-sc3.html

The last thing he needs, is bigger fuel injectors. Taking the pressure back a few psi won't compensate enough.

 

the GTE ecu will run well for what you want to do and you can run it on the stock harness, It will be tons better than the stock ecu and you can run 20 psi on it with the right map sensor. You just need to add wires for the ignition and the MAP+IAT sensors to your harness, its not rocket science and there are diagrams.
If you get like a 2.5-3 bar map sensor to match your injectors and you wont need a piggyback.
larger map sensors (or an afc) does advance the timing, but the gte ecu is very conservative in boost stock so you could get away with 50% more than stock size (JDM 440cc) which gives 660cc and you are pretty much there.
Best part is you can upgrade to coilpacks, but if you want to still use the stock distributor you can also, and that means running less wires also.