GTE Swap vs NA-T for 600+whp
#1
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From: NJ
GTE Swap vs NA-T for 600+whp
Yes, I know this has been asked hundreds of times, but in the threads I've read I can't find exactly what I'm looking for.
My power goals would be somewhere around 600+rwhp on high boost, so I can drive it as a daily on low boost; because I don't want to drop thousands on a 6spd I'll be sticking with an r154 which will dictate how much power I make. Don't want to be replacing transmissions frequently.
I'm looking for which one will be more cost effective; a GTE swap or a NA-T conversion. I know a shop around here that will do the GTE swap for 4800 out the door with the engine and a r154 tranny included.
If I go NA-T I'll probably also be swapping the w58 for a r154.
No matter which route I go I'm going to most likely upgrade to a single PTE 6265 or a single 6765(Will a 6765 spool that much slower? Is it overkill for being limited by the r154?) Would hks 264 cams for the GTE work in the N/A engine? How much extra work is involved because of the NA's higher compression ratio?
Overall: In total what will be cheaper to build to 600+whp, NA-T or GTE? Will one be significantly more reliable?
Thanks in advance guys!
EDIT: I know theres another identical thread but it got messed up somehow and just links to a different thread. Not exactly sure why/what happened.
My power goals would be somewhere around 600+rwhp on high boost, so I can drive it as a daily on low boost; because I don't want to drop thousands on a 6spd I'll be sticking with an r154 which will dictate how much power I make. Don't want to be replacing transmissions frequently.
I'm looking for which one will be more cost effective; a GTE swap or a NA-T conversion. I know a shop around here that will do the GTE swap for 4800 out the door with the engine and a r154 tranny included.
If I go NA-T I'll probably also be swapping the w58 for a r154.
No matter which route I go I'm going to most likely upgrade to a single PTE 6265 or a single 6765(Will a 6765 spool that much slower? Is it overkill for being limited by the r154?) Would hks 264 cams for the GTE work in the N/A engine? How much extra work is involved because of the NA's higher compression ratio?
Overall: In total what will be cheaper to build to 600+whp, NA-T or GTE? Will one be significantly more reliable?
Thanks in advance guys!
EDIT: I know theres another identical thread but it got messed up somehow and just links to a different thread. Not exactly sure why/what happened.
Last edited by Moula; 11-25-11 at 10:25 PM.
#2
some ppl would say go gte some ppl would go na-t. you should sit down and write it all out to latter tally up the cost you want for your setup. but gte swapped for 4800 with motor and labor? with what trans? 67mm turbo would be ideal for 600whp but its been done on 6265 before. for na-t you would have to think about changing your head gasket, trans, arp head studs, and oil drain. for gte the stuff is there. for both things together you will have to incorporate injectors, fuel pump/pumps, regulator, rail, engine management, single t conversion, exhaust wrk, intercooler, piping, bov, wastegate, and many more. the list is never ending with both setups. just tally up what each one would cost you and i guarantee u will be over 10k either way will slight difference in cost. it will really depend if you can do the work yourself or shop is doing it. and not to be a **** but this subject has been covered a million times and ppl may not answer you bc they prob feel that you haven't searched hard enough. clubna-t and supraforums also has good info
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From: NJ
some ppl would say go gte some ppl would go na-t. you should sit down and write it all out to latter tally up the cost you want for your setup. but gte swapped for 4800 with motor and labor? with what trans? 67mm turbo would be ideal for 600whp but its been done on 6265 before. for na-t you would have to think about changing your head gasket, trans, arp head studs, and oil drain. for gte the stuff is there. for both things together you will have to incorporate injectors, fuel pump/pumps, regulator, rail, engine management, single t conversion, exhaust wrk, intercooler, piping, bov, wastegate, and many more. the list is never ending with both setups. just tally up what each one would cost you and i guarantee u will be over 10k either way will slight difference in cost. it will really depend if you can do the work yourself or shop is doing it. and not to be a **** but this subject has been covered a million times and ppl may not answer you bc they prob feel that you haven't searched hard enough. clubna-t and supraforums also has good info
Also, what did you mean by oil drain? Sorry if it's a dumb question, couldn't find anything about that after searching. Found a ton of info at club na-t, thanks alot!
Last edited by Moula; 11-26-11 at 01:14 AM.
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A JDM 2jzgte + a r154 swap and labor for 4800 thats pretty damn good if you ask me.. But why not just build your NA and go NA-T and buy supporting mods since you already have the NA I'm sure you can get away with it for less than 4800. If you go do the TT swap then thats 4800 already + buying a single turbo kit
#5
A JDM 2jzgte + a r154 swap and labor for 4800 thats pretty damn good if you ask me.. But why not just build your NA and go NA-T and buy supporting mods since you already have the NA I'm sure you can get away with it for less than 4800. If you go do the TT swap then thats 4800 already + buying a single turbo kit
#6
As long as your GE is healthy I'd say stick with that and add the turbo setup....Just add a TT head gasket and ARP head studs...then throw the single turbo setup with supporting mods and have fun!
#7
exactly what ^ he said...
a quick break down..both setups will need a full single setup to net 600whp, both should go full stand alone imo and both will need a good clutch.
the difference..
gte = 4800 installed with r154
ge= tt headgasket 150 arp head studs 100 r154 700 labor to install ~1000 = 1950
obviously this is a small breakdown but you can clearly see to get each motor ready for those goals you'll save a few thousand with the ge setup that can go toward full stand alone and a nice single setup..
i believe the rest of the parts needed will also be needed for both setups so didnt mention things of that nature.
a quick break down..both setups will need a full single setup to net 600whp, both should go full stand alone imo and both will need a good clutch.
the difference..
gte = 4800 installed with r154
ge= tt headgasket 150 arp head studs 100 r154 700 labor to install ~1000 = 1950
obviously this is a small breakdown but you can clearly see to get each motor ready for those goals you'll save a few thousand with the ge setup that can go toward full stand alone and a nice single setup..
i believe the rest of the parts needed will also be needed for both setups so didnt mention things of that nature.
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#8
it is common knowledge if you are going single turbo, it is cheaper to just use your GE motor, and you will gain more power because with a TT headgasket on a ge your compression ratio will be a little higher than a gte, which is a good thing especially with a standalone, which you can afford right away compared to a swap.
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Thanks for the input guys. Confirmed my research I did last night, going with NA-T.
As for the head gasket, I believe someone said a stock TT headgasket would be good, they're 1.3mm correct? which would give me a compression of about 9.2:1. would 9.2:1 be better than 8.5:1 with a 2.5mm boost logic head gasket?
As for the head gasket, I believe someone said a stock TT headgasket would be good, they're 1.3mm correct? which would give me a compression of about 9.2:1. would 9.2:1 be better than 8.5:1 with a 2.5mm boost logic head gasket?
#12
I think a further question to ask is: will a stock 2jz (ge or gte) bottom end support 600+HP?
I am pretty sure the answer is "not reliably."
So, to obtain that power, I wouldn't focus on GE vs. GTE, but rather what it'll take INSIDE either motor to survive that (arp rod and main bolts, rods, etc.)
I am pretty sure the answer is "not reliably."
So, to obtain that power, I wouldn't focus on GE vs. GTE, but rather what it'll take INSIDE either motor to survive that (arp rod and main bolts, rods, etc.)
#13
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From: NJ
I think a further question to ask is: will a stock 2jz (ge or gte) bottom end support 600+HP?
I am pretty sure the answer is "not reliably."
So, to obtain that power, I wouldn't focus on GE vs. GTE, but rather what it'll take INSIDE either motor to survive that (arp rod and main bolts, rods, etc.)
I am pretty sure the answer is "not reliably."
So, to obtain that power, I wouldn't focus on GE vs. GTE, but rather what it'll take INSIDE either motor to survive that (arp rod and main bolts, rods, etc.)
#14
I think a further question to ask is: will a stock 2jz (ge or gte) bottom end support 600+HP?
I am pretty sure the answer is "not reliably."
So, to obtain that power, I wouldn't focus on GE vs. GTE, but rather what it'll take INSIDE either motor to survive that (arp rod and main bolts, rods, etc.)
I am pretty sure the answer is "not reliably."
So, to obtain that power, I wouldn't focus on GE vs. GTE, but rather what it'll take INSIDE either motor to survive that (arp rod and main bolts, rods, etc.)
Just luck of the draw whether your stock motor will hold up or not...if its healthy then it will hold it, but theres also other things to understand to make the motor reliable...tuning etc
#15
I think a further question to ask is: will a stock 2jz (ge or gte) bottom end support 600+HP?
I am pretty sure the answer is "not reliably."
So, to obtain that power, I wouldn't focus on GE vs. GTE, but rather what it'll take INSIDE either motor to survive that (arp rod and main bolts, rods, etc.)
I am pretty sure the answer is "not reliably."
So, to obtain that power, I wouldn't focus on GE vs. GTE, but rather what it'll take INSIDE either motor to survive that (arp rod and main bolts, rods, etc.)