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sc300 triple pump in-tank installation

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Old 01-07-12, 08:45 PM
  #16  
1JZPWRD
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These are the threads that makes CL proud to be a member of. Thanks for the insight and the incredible pictures. Looks great man
Old 01-11-12, 05:03 PM
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alexna-t
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nice write up.
I got one question. how did you make connections for the wires to go through the cap??

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/j...ccessplate.jpg
Old 01-17-12, 01:44 PM
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motorheaddown
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Originally Posted by cartmill
i'm curious as to why you didn't use a 3-way "Y" in the tank, instead of running one pump separately and Y'ing it in up in the engine bay...
i understand the concept of over-running the rail so your fuel pressure isn't controllable at low load, but you could still run one pump 99% of the time (and the other two as a PWM output) and have it feed all through the same -8 line, correct? it seems to me like you're just adding extra fuel line and an additional "Y" when it's not necessary.
(i'm not hating here, just curious -- maybe i'm missing something)
All very good observations and questions...

Simply, the hassle of adding a -10 line out of the tank and trying to cram a triple Y-block (with fittings and lines) through the access hole just wasn't worth it, IMO. You're correct, though; had it worked, I could've easily staged the second and third pumps with one running all the time.

Unfortunately, I just didn't feel like deleting the existing line, and I already had a 2-to-1 Y-block with fittings I knew would fit through the tank access hole. So, I decided to use what was there and limit the re-work as much as possible.

Thanks,
-scott

Last edited by motorheaddown; 01-17-12 at 01:52 PM.
Old 01-17-12, 01:50 PM
  #19  
motorheaddown
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Originally Posted by alexna-t
nice write up.
I got one question. how did you make connections for the wires to go through the cap??

First, I drilled two holes in the access plate and welded NPT plugs into the plate where the holes were. I then drilled through the plugs creating a pass-through for the in-tank conductor. Next, I filled the plugs with JB Weld and then drilled out the center large enough to screw in a long 10/32 or 8/32 screw. Once the screw was through with ample threads on both sides of the plate, I simply cut off the head of the screw. You'll notice I also use a nylon nut to keep the metal retaining nuts from conducting with the plate which is grounded.

Thanks,
-scott

Last edited by motorheaddown; 01-17-12 at 01:53 PM.
Old 05-12-12, 09:42 AM
  #20  
HiPSI
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I already have one aeromotive stealth 340 intank pump to install for my fuel setup but I'm considering just going ahead and doing a twin intank setup with a 2nd aeromotive 340. How much power do you think twin 340's will support power wise? Also what would be the easiest way to plumb the fuel lines for twin intanks? Could I just feed them both through the stock feed and then do a Y adapter in the engine bay to feed both sides of the rail? Or would I need to do a -8 an feed from the tank to the rail. Or 2 -6an lines feeding each side of the rail independent of each other?
Old 05-14-12, 06:16 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by HiPSI
I already have one aeromotive stealth 340 intank pump to install for my fuel setup but I'm considering just going ahead and doing a twin intank setup with a 2nd aeromotive 340. How much power do you think twin 340's will support power wise? Also what would be the easiest way to plumb the fuel lines for twin intanks? Could I just feed them both through the stock feed and then do a Y adapter in the engine bay to feed both sides of the rail? Or would I need to do a -8 an feed from the tank to the rail. Or 2 -6an lines feeding each side of the rail independent of each other?
You might be able to eek out 1000whp on two assuming you have a good flowing power plant (i.e. head, turbo, IC piping, and exhaust), but that'll be pushing it. Your fuel system would have to work perfectly to ensure any margin.

As far as plumbing goes, I'd either add another 6AN line and use it with the stock feed line. Or, plug the stock line and install an 8AN.

The stock return will work just fine.

-scott
Old 05-14-12, 07:40 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by motorheaddown
You might be able to eek out 1000whp on two assuming you have a good flowing power plant (i.e. head, turbo, IC piping, and exhaust), but that'll be pushing it. Your fuel system would have to work perfectly to ensure any margin.

As far as plumbing goes, I'd either add another 6AN line and use it with the stock feed line. Or, plug the stock line and install an 8AN.

The stock return will work just fine.

-scott
Am about to work on my e85 fuel system .. having the -8 or is it -10an on that cover holding the pumps inside the cabin, does it not produce the odd fuel smell ? and where did your line go from there ? back to the trunk and down the car ?
Old 05-14-12, 08:21 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by motorheaddown
You might be able to eek out 1000whp on two assuming you have a good flowing power plant (i.e. head, turbo, IC piping, and exhaust), but that'll be pushing it. Your fuel system would have to work perfectly to ensure any margin.

As far as plumbing goes, I'd either add another 6AN line and use it with the stock feed line. Or, plug the stock line and install an 8AN.

The stock return will work just fine.

-scott
So add one 6an line next to the stock feed, one pump per line, fed to each side of the rail? I'll probably keep the oem filter and run a 6an filter on the second line. I'm going to delete the fuel dampener as well. Supporting 700-800whp is plenty let alone trying to make 1k on this setup.
Old 05-19-12, 11:08 PM
  #24  
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If I understand correctly, both fuel pumps in your setup are grounded to this fuel cap ("plate") and get separate 12+v power wires?
Old 05-20-12, 06:57 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by dejacky
If I understand correctly, both fuel pumps in your setup are grounded to this fuel cap ("plate") and get separate 12+v power wires?
Yes. It's hard to tell in the pic, but I welded a bolt just above the 12V pass-throughs that sticks out the tank-side of the plate. The pumps are grounded there. Then, I run an 8 gauge wire from the outside of the plate to the ground point on the chassis near the trunk latch.

FWIW, I use JB Weld as an insulator for the 12V pass-throughs. Just create a hole with a stand-off through the tank lid, fill it with JB Weld, and then drill/tap a 1 1/2" or 2" bolt through it. Obviously, the bolt heads have been cut off to allow nuts on both sides of the post to attach the wires.

-scott
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