Losaun

iTrader: (4)

I'll cut right to it..

95 sc3 m/t
When I turn the key to start the car I get nothing. Everything lights up as it should.
I used a jumper wire to the starter and it fired right up. Is my problem the ignition switch?
If so how do I prove it? Also does anyone have a wiring diagram?
Also I see 2 different connectors on the clutch pedal. I know 1 is acts like a park safety switch but what about the other one?

Thanks

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

I take it this just up and happened one day. On day t-1 everything was fine. You went out the morning of day t, turned the key and...nothing. No click. No clunk. Nada. Consider having a key made from the key code of the car. Sometimes the key wears and replacing it is cheaper than an ignition switch.

To answer another question, to prove it is the ignition switch you would remove the ignition switch and test continuity with the key in the on and off positions.

1995 did not have a chip in the key so that is not it.

It could be the safety lockout on the clutch.

Losaun

iTrader: (4)

Is the safety lock out the same as the park neutral switch?
I see there are 2 different switches on the clutch pedal. Also with the car running the the oil light, windshield wiper fluid and brake light come on some time when I push the clutch pedal in. No clue what's up with that. Also I was able to jumP the starter b removing the starter relay and jumping 12v directly to the starter. Car started a few times but will not start anymore when I try and jump it..

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

"...same as the park neutral switch?" No, I believe there is a switch that detects whether or not the clutch pedal is depressed. The car will not start if the clutch is out thereby making certain you do not try to start the car in gear.

It sounds like you have an intermittent electrical short in that switch / circuit based on the dash lights that come on when you depress the clutch pedal.

Losaun

iTrader: (4)

WadeLovell: here are the two switches on the clutch pedal that I am talking about.


and



I have the bottom one jumped to allow the car to start without needing to depress the clutch to start it. That circuit is working fine. The switch at the top of the clutch pedal I think is the cluprit. I put a test light to it and it lights up but is very dim and the test light will not sound off with it's normal audible sound. the voltage is well below 12v.

Anyone know that this secondary switch could be located on the top of the clutch? I think its the reason I am not able to start my car...

thanks

MooJohn

That should be the cruise control kill switch so the engine doesn't redline if you take the car out of gear before disengaging cruise. It shouldn't have any impact on starting though.

Losaun

iTrader: (4)

the only reason I was thinking it has something to do with my issue is because when I am driving the car and I push the clutch pedal in while sitting at a light the "brake, oil, and 1 other dash light come on and go off as soon as I release the pedal.... it has the same connector as the clutch start switch and both terminals have power. there is a black /w and a black wire. the black have 12v and the black /w have 8v.

MooJohn

Pull the ECU and check it for bad capacitors. What you described shouldn't happen by pushing the clutch in.

Losaun

iTrader: (4)

I found a work around for the issue. The issue was at the starter ecu. The Theft deterrent ecu was not ground once the clutch switch sent 12v to the other side of the coil. I just added a wire from the ground to the other side of the coil and then everything worked..... I am going to check my grounds, then replace the Theft deterrent ecu, and then the grounds in the passenger door.

thanks MooJohn, I'll let you know what I find. But I appreciate you my man!!!! if you ever need help please let me know man...