Rebuilding Engine. Part/Brands?
01-20-12, 05:30 AM
#18
Lot of info to go through. I'm on my phone and will have to read this again later.
I do have a new water pump. I will be running 93 octane. I'm doing this engine in class so I will be completely dissembling the engine. I have no background of how many miles are on the engine. also its been sitting in a barn for 6 months. My thoughts Have been, since I have it apart, why not do it new? Other than price? I plan to DD it in the summer so I was looking for a stand alone system I could user with a electric boost controller to tone down the power a bit for a rainy day out whatnot. As for the head, is there a way to tell what type of springs and valves it has? The head I have looks almost new. it has minor port and polish I was told.
I do have a new water pump. I will be running 93 octane. I'm doing this engine in class so I will be completely dissembling the engine. I have no background of how many miles are on the engine. also its been sitting in a barn for 6 months. My thoughts Have been, since I have it apart, why not do it new? Other than price? I plan to DD it in the summer so I was looking for a stand alone system I could user with a electric boost controller to tone down the power a bit for a rainy day out whatnot. As for the head, is there a way to tell what type of springs and valves it has? The head I have looks almost new. it has minor port and polish I was told.
01-20-12, 10:05 AM
#19
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hey ben, if you take the spring caps off and the retainers, the brand name should be laser etched into the type of spring it is. That would be the easiest way of telling, since those things are in the head pretty good and there's no other way to really tell.
01-20-12, 02:31 PM
#20
I found some possible camshafts some BC 272 lift. I'm going to see if the one's I have are good, but I may go with the high lift ones. I think I've decided to stick with the stock rods and pistons if they're still good. Would it be a good idea to buy new piston rings and such?
As for injectors, Do i need 1000cc? If I plan to DD, is that going to ruin mpg? ..... Now a bunch of you probably smacked your head as I mentioned mpg in building a performance engine, but I don't plan on going any higher than that 600hp mark. I would be fine with 450-500 in all honestly if it meant more reliable. So, do I need 1000cc injectors for that goal?
As for injectors, Do i need 1000cc? If I plan to DD, is that going to ruin mpg? ..... Now a bunch of you probably smacked your head as I mentioned mpg in building a performance engine, but I don't plan on going any higher than that 600hp mark. I would be fine with 450-500 in all honestly if it meant more reliable. So, do I need 1000cc injectors for that goal?
01-21-12, 07:04 PM
#21
You could go with ID 750's but since these injectors have such a small response time (half of older technology injectors), you can have 1000's and idle at a very stable 800 rpms if you want to, you will need a top feed fuel rail since you have a gte head.
Basically whatever size you want the latest tech is the Bosch EV14 injectors (thats what ID injector are basically).
They have a medium cone spray and can actually improve your mpg, but your turbo will make any small gains dissapear very quickly.
Basically whatever size you want the latest tech is the Bosch EV14 injectors (thats what ID injector are basically).
They have a medium cone spray and can actually improve your mpg, but your turbo will make any small gains dissapear very quickly.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-21-12 at 07:08 PM.
01-22-12, 05:12 AM
#22
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With my old setup 1600cc over 5XXrwhp at 17 psi MPG was perfect between 25-27 better than my 2002 GS300.
The combo was R154, 3.92rear end it was the perfect combo for "mE"
Its all in the Tune not the size of the injectors, the IDs idle like stock even the 2000cc which are the same as the FIC 2150cc.
So if you can do your fuel once and not have to worry about it , do it once specially the injectors because it will change your tune so you will have to go back for retune and that $$$$.
If you can afford the ID1000 don't settle for anything else.
You wnat 500-600hp so you don't need no 272s with high lift, you need some 264s they will get the job done. Hell even the stock cams will get it done if your not gonna push it to 800.
Throw some US cams in there and keep moving they will make 600 with no issue.
With the 272 you will have to replace your valvetrain , springs, reainers, etc..billet tensioner because with the high lift cams 9.9 to 10.2mm lift if the tensioner breaks your engine is trash.
The combo was R154, 3.92rear end it was the perfect combo for "mE"
Its all in the Tune not the size of the injectors, the IDs idle like stock even the 2000cc which are the same as the FIC 2150cc.
So if you can do your fuel once and not have to worry about it , do it once specially the injectors because it will change your tune so you will have to go back for retune and that $$$$.
If you can afford the ID1000 don't settle for anything else.
You wnat 500-600hp so you don't need no 272s with high lift, you need some 264s they will get the job done. Hell even the stock cams will get it done if your not gonna push it to 800.
Throw some US cams in there and keep moving they will make 600 with no issue.
With the 272 you will have to replace your valvetrain , springs, reainers, etc..billet tensioner because with the high lift cams 9.9 to 10.2mm lift if the tensioner breaks your engine is trash.
01-25-12, 08:23 AM
#24
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Ok so if you goal is only gonna be 500-600rwhp i wouldn't even touch the bottom end if it's in good condition.
if you know you will push it to 900rwhp+, it will be a good idea to go with aftermarket rods, bearing, main cap and pistons.
For 800rwhp i wouldn't touch the block if it's in great condition, it's the head that make the power really so if you throw in some nice cams, spring and retainer you are golden.
If you gonna do HL cams i would recommend the billet timing tensioner.
stock USDM cams will make 800rwhp but it will be easier to make that power on aftermarket cams and at a lower PSI.
I wouldn't install aggressive cam on stock valvetrain.
What fuel are you gonna be running? just get a stock TT headgasket and please do not use 8.5.1 comp pistons if you decide you wanna build the engine.
On the right setup with a 67mm turbo with 81ar 264/272 cams will make 600rwhp on 93octane.
Seriously it's a nice that will make plenty of power just buy the right supporting mods.
Here is what i would get:
-TT headgasket
-GSC S1 cams
-GSC beehive Spring and retainers but Or can do BC if you want a cheaper route .
-Titan billet timing tensioner it's a must if you are going with HL cams
-New TT water pump
-New IS300 oil pump
-New TT headgasket kit
-Gates Timing belt
-ID1000cc injectors
-8 fuel rail
-Tial 44mm Wg
-Tial or HKS BOV
-4"DP/MP
-Ebay manifold or try to find drewgo there are very nice.
-Fuel pumps BOSCH 044/ Aeromotive stealth/deatschwerks pumps these are all very nice and reliable pumps.
-Standalone is a must for that kind of power whatever you tuner feels confortable with or Whatever you Like!
-Turbo is my domain I love nice turbos my favorite Turbo for 600-800rwhp is BW91-79 aka BW S366 with .91ar Divided on Divided manifold.
What trans are you going with ?
if you know you will push it to 900rwhp+, it will be a good idea to go with aftermarket rods, bearing, main cap and pistons.
For 800rwhp i wouldn't touch the block if it's in great condition, it's the head that make the power really so if you throw in some nice cams, spring and retainer you are golden.
If you gonna do HL cams i would recommend the billet timing tensioner.
stock USDM cams will make 800rwhp but it will be easier to make that power on aftermarket cams and at a lower PSI.
I wouldn't install aggressive cam on stock valvetrain.
What fuel are you gonna be running? just get a stock TT headgasket and please do not use 8.5.1 comp pistons if you decide you wanna build the engine.
On the right setup with a 67mm turbo with 81ar 264/272 cams will make 600rwhp on 93octane.
Seriously it's a nice that will make plenty of power just buy the right supporting mods.
Here is what i would get:
-TT headgasket
-GSC S1 cams
-GSC beehive Spring and retainers but Or can do BC if you want a cheaper route .
-Titan billet timing tensioner it's a must if you are going with HL cams
-New TT water pump
-New IS300 oil pump
-New TT headgasket kit
-Gates Timing belt
-ID1000cc injectors
-8 fuel rail
-Tial 44mm Wg
-Tial or HKS BOV
-4"DP/MP
-Ebay manifold or try to find drewgo there are very nice.
-Fuel pumps BOSCH 044/ Aeromotive stealth/deatschwerks pumps these are all very nice and reliable pumps.
-Standalone is a must for that kind of power whatever you tuner feels confortable with or Whatever you Like!
-Turbo is my domain I love nice turbos my favorite Turbo for 600-800rwhp is BW91-79 aka BW S366 with .91ar Divided on Divided manifold.
What trans are you going with ?
01-25-12, 09:16 AM
#25
He has to get an IS300 or TT oil pump because he is using a TT head, which means it has cam sensors instead of a distributor now, so he lost his crank signal from the distributor in the swap. So when you do the TT head swap you need to use the TT oil pump or an is300 oil pump that has a crank sensor built in and you also install the TT Crank Gear. That way you are getting the crank signal off the crank, and the cam signal off the head, like a TT.
You actually get a better crank signal using the oil pump vs distributor, cause the crank sensor is bigger, and produces a larger amplitude signal.
You actually get a better crank signal using the oil pump vs distributor, cause the crank sensor is bigger, and produces a larger amplitude signal.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-25-12 at 09:20 AM.
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