na-t turbo set up
02-08-12, 02:19 PM
#16
I'd wait on the oil return until you have the turbo mocked up on the manifold in the car. I bought my fittings from Jegs online. Just realize that you can't mix brands on the fittings as some of the hose only fits the same brands fittings etc. I'd just go with Jegs and build your own.
You'll need a dremel to cut the braided -10 AN hose. Tape it with electrical tape and use a round cut off wheel. Then blow the hose out with air and then run a wet papertowell through the hose, pushing it with a long screwdriver. It doesn't get a lot of debris in the hose, but you might as well go overboard cleaning the hose out right.
wear glasses, and a mask cause it stinks once you cut through the rubber.
You'll need a dremel to cut the braided -10 AN hose. Tape it with electrical tape and use a round cut off wheel. Then blow the hose out with air and then run a wet papertowell through the hose, pushing it with a long screwdriver. It doesn't get a lot of debris in the hose, but you might as well go overboard cleaning the hose out right.
wear glasses, and a mask cause it stinks once you cut through the rubber.
02-09-12, 10:35 PM
#18
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use sharp chisel and a hammer. why are you guys using cutoff wheels for? itll just complicate things if debris get sucked up into a pump/sump or even worse the turbo journals
02-12-12, 10:11 AM
#20
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key points i want when done
-quick spool
-on pump gas
-400hp to 450hp
So 8.5:1 is most likely my CR(2.4mm) and that is over cautious of what is really capable on pump gas while achieving 400-450hp and i should go with a TT head gasket(1.8mm)?
so if the TT HG is what i should go with i can just change that whenever then? I still have motor stilling on stand. i have not started it.
-quick spool
-on pump gas
-400hp to 450hp
So 8.5:1 is most likely my CR(2.4mm) and that is over cautious of what is really capable on pump gas while achieving 400-450hp and i should go with a TT head gasket(1.8mm)?
so if the TT HG is what i should go with i can just change that whenever then? I still have motor stilling on stand. i have not started it.
it can be done
02-16-12, 10:50 AM
#21
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02-17-12, 08:34 AM
#22
And im sure all the race cars and fast things youve built over the years give you more expertise than me... Im a 3rd generation builder... My grandpa is still talked about in Motorcycle drags... so just stop..
Every person ive ever seen that does it CORRECTLY, does it with a saw or cutoff. There is an actual tool that you can use too, but a hammer and a chisel is hack.
Every person ive ever seen that does it CORRECTLY, does it with a saw or cutoff. There is an actual tool that you can use too, but a hammer and a chisel is hack.
02-17-12, 09:15 AM
#23
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And im sure all the race cars and fast things youve built over the years give you more expertise than me... Im a 3rd generation builder... My grandpa is still talked about in Motorcycle drags... so just stop..
Every person ive ever seen that does it CORRECTLY, does it with a saw or cutoff. There is an actual tool that you can use too, but a hammer and a chisel is hack.
Every person ive ever seen that does it CORRECTLY, does it with a saw or cutoff. There is an actual tool that you can use too, but a hammer and a chisel is hack.
just hear me out on my logic, the particles that come from grinding wheels consist of steal and many other things that makes it a cutting wheel. when hot it will wear out and bond to the rubber hose on the inside of the braided line along with the hot materials being cut. cleaning the hose with water and air pressure alone wont be enough to get rid of all that steel and crap. using cleaning solvents will soften/weaken the rubber hose under the braided line and will eventually affect the integrity of the hose. what ever is left in the hose will eventually fall out after heat, pressure and lubrication from oil/fuel/brake fluid and will end up in your calipers, turbos, oil sump, pump and cause damage to seals, bearings and many other things. i will keep on doing this my way and you can go by doing yours im just trying to save the op 800-1000 bux on buying a new turbo. from my experience i will never use a grinding wheel to cut ss hose again. im sure you have many more years of wrenching time under your belt than i but ive been able to work on my different things in my years of mechanic work and have learned from others and my mistakes. and finally everyone cutting hoses "correctly" like your are would forever exclude me and i guess it would also exclude the guys at Earlsfittings. the actual truly correct way to cut these hoses are to buy their shears but im not spending ~150 bux for some shears
02-21-12, 01:56 PM
#25
for right now the guy that is helping with the build is starting to get tired of helping and i just want to get the NA block into my car. it will have the v8 lex afm and 440cc and the 2.4mm hg everything else is the same. after break in and he gets a break from me then ill get to putting a turbo on. i lack the environment at home to work on a car. (apartments)
can this setup produce 350hp on that compression ratio? with 93 octane once turbod
can this setup produce 350hp on that compression ratio? with 93 octane once turbod
02-21-12, 02:23 PM
#26
getting rid of the 2.4mm is the first thing you should do unless you are looking over 600hp.
put a TT headgasket on there for your power goals. 400hp with a 2.4mm HG and a single turbo will be far from ideal.
I would take 350hp on the stock motor any day of the week over that, its really much better when you hit your powerband early and can enjoy it to redline.
put a TT headgasket on there for your power goals. 400hp with a 2.4mm HG and a single turbo will be far from ideal.
I would take 350hp on the stock motor any day of the week over that, its really much better when you hit your powerband early and can enjoy it to redline.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-21-12 at 02:27 PM.
02-26-12, 02:02 PM
#28
well ive been convinced that what i have setup is what ill keep just because of the limits are well within the limits of being safe, for example a bad tank of fuel wont kill it or it overboosts due to failure of a component. i just want to keep in mind the daily driver and reliability and cost to operate.
02-26-12, 07:17 PM
#29
Your car is gonna feel like **** IMO. You are literally gonna hate driving it out of boost and you wont make very much power down low. My car makes a nice amount of power down low and stays constant. Stock engine stock everything. 11 psi (I have a big turbo) aand my car moves like crazy.