Best Synthetic Oil for 1JZ/2JZ ?
02-25-12, 05:14 PM
#1
1JZ Single SC400
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Best Synthetic Oil for 1JZ/2JZ ?
I have read countless hours on the internet about who has the best synthetic oil and why? Honestly, I dont what some of the info means. In the end, I want to know what people are using on here, when they change, color or smell of it when they do, how hard they drive their motor, rev it hard all the time, size turbo, and so on. Please only contribute to this thread by people who can honestly contribute, not ideas or suggestions.
The reason for this thread, is due to the oil I have chosen. I have used Castrol GTX full synthetic in my BMW for over five years, but have used Castrol in all of my cars since I was sixteen. I am really leaning toward the use of the new Castrol Edge Full synthetic with Titanium. Its more than Royal Purple, but I cant seem to find Amsoil locally.
If you have been following my build thread, you know why I need this answered.
The reason for this thread, is due to the oil I have chosen. I have used Castrol GTX full synthetic in my BMW for over five years, but have used Castrol in all of my cars since I was sixteen. I am really leaning toward the use of the new Castrol Edge Full synthetic with Titanium. Its more than Royal Purple, but I cant seem to find Amsoil locally.
If you have been following my build thread, you know why I need this answered.
02-25-12, 07:04 PM
#2
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ive read a ton on this too i been using Mobil 1 but it seems that it just USE to be good but in the recent years has gone down hill in quality... (time to switch)
ive heard alot of great things about german castrol i believe castrol edge is what the call it now correct? cant find that stuff anywhere in this area
i think the 3 top synthetic contenders(that are readily available) are Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple. from what ive read it would seem that for all around protection Amsoil is top, and for best power Redline is king, then RP is somewhere in middle
as far as When to change your oil (sooner then recommended) its too hard to tell by what it looks like or maybe smell like except for the obvious signs of something fishy going on. the most accurate way to do this is pick your oil then drive it for say... 3k-5k (on synthetic on normal pump gas) and have it sent in for an oil analysis to test for wear and break down it only takes about a week and then you can know for sure for your self with your setup and driving style instead of guessing. the more broken down the oil is you should probably change it sooner and if its still fine you know you can take it a bit further
ive heard alot of great things about german castrol i believe castrol edge is what the call it now correct? cant find that stuff anywhere in this area
i think the 3 top synthetic contenders(that are readily available) are Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple. from what ive read it would seem that for all around protection Amsoil is top, and for best power Redline is king, then RP is somewhere in middle
as far as When to change your oil (sooner then recommended) its too hard to tell by what it looks like or maybe smell like except for the obvious signs of something fishy going on. the most accurate way to do this is pick your oil then drive it for say... 3k-5k (on synthetic on normal pump gas) and have it sent in for an oil analysis to test for wear and break down it only takes about a week and then you can know for sure for your self with your setup and driving style instead of guessing. the more broken down the oil is you should probably change it sooner and if its still fine you know you can take it a bit further
Last edited by broda805; 02-25-12 at 07:26 PM.
02-25-12, 10:01 PM
#4
Castrol German 0W-30. You can find it at most Autozones.
The reason being: it is one of the only true Group IV PAO base oils that you can buy off the shelves besides Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Redline. Redline is a Group V Ester base oil and more expensive. All other synthetics that you can buy off the shelves are Group III hydrocracked oils, not true synthetics.
I do not have a car with a 2JZ, but I do have a car with a 7M, so I feel that I can still contribute to this. German Castrol 0W-30 flows excellently and provides excellent pressure (about 43 PSI at 3000 RPM in my 7M). I live in the mountains of Colorado, and in the middle of Winter, having an oil that flows well on start up is crucial. Even on cold starts, the car starts and runs very smoothly. A 0W-30 oil will ALWAYS flow better on cold starts than a 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil, and when warm, Castrol German is closer to a 40 weight oil.
It's priced the same as the hydro-cracked oil, so I see no reason not to buy it.
Note: there is also an American made 0W-30 Castrol Synthetic oil which is NOT the same as the German Synthetic. The American stuff is simply another overpriced hydrocracked oil. The German oil is, as I said before, a Group IV PAO base oil.
It will say on the front of the bottle 'European Formula'. If not, look on the back under the 'API Service SF, SJ, CF' text. It should say 'Made in Germany'.
The reason being: it is one of the only true Group IV PAO base oils that you can buy off the shelves besides Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Redline. Redline is a Group V Ester base oil and more expensive. All other synthetics that you can buy off the shelves are Group III hydrocracked oils, not true synthetics.
I do not have a car with a 2JZ, but I do have a car with a 7M, so I feel that I can still contribute to this. German Castrol 0W-30 flows excellently and provides excellent pressure (about 43 PSI at 3000 RPM in my 7M). I live in the mountains of Colorado, and in the middle of Winter, having an oil that flows well on start up is crucial. Even on cold starts, the car starts and runs very smoothly. A 0W-30 oil will ALWAYS flow better on cold starts than a 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil, and when warm, Castrol German is closer to a 40 weight oil.
It's priced the same as the hydro-cracked oil, so I see no reason not to buy it.
Note: there is also an American made 0W-30 Castrol Synthetic oil which is NOT the same as the German Synthetic. The American stuff is simply another overpriced hydrocracked oil. The German oil is, as I said before, a Group IV PAO base oil.
It will say on the front of the bottle 'European Formula'. If not, look on the back under the 'API Service SF, SJ, CF' text. It should say 'Made in Germany'.
02-25-12, 10:26 PM
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Ive always used mobil-1 10-30 in my 2jzgte. 640 whp, 28psi boost, t04z. i take it to redline everytime I drive and change the oil every 3 months cause i dont put 5000 miles on it within that period.
02-26-12, 07:06 AM
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Castrol German 0W-30. You can find it at most Autozones.
The reason being: it is one of the only true Group IV PAO base oils that you can buy off the shelves besides Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Redline. Redline is a Group V Ester base oil and more expensive. All other synthetics that you can buy off the shelves are Group III hydrocracked oils, not true synthetics.
I do not have a car with a 2JZ, but I do have a car with a 7M, so I feel that I can still contribute to this. German Castrol 0W-30 flows excellently and provides excellent pressure (about 43 PSI at 3000 RPM in my 7M). I live in the mountains of Colorado, and in the middle of Winter, having an oil that flows well on start up is crucial. Even on cold starts, the car starts and runs very smoothly. A 0W-30 oil will ALWAYS flow better on cold starts than a 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil, and when warm, Castrol German is closer to a 40 weight oil.
It's priced the same as the hydro-cracked oil, so I see no reason not to buy it.
Note: there is also an American made 0W-30 Castrol Synthetic oil which is NOT the same as the German Synthetic. The American stuff is simply another overpriced hydrocracked oil. The German oil is, as I said before, a Group IV PAO base oil.
It will say on the front of the bottle 'European Formula'. If not, look on the back under the 'API Service SF, SJ, CF' text. It should say 'Made in Germany'.
The reason being: it is one of the only true Group IV PAO base oils that you can buy off the shelves besides Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Redline. Redline is a Group V Ester base oil and more expensive. All other synthetics that you can buy off the shelves are Group III hydrocracked oils, not true synthetics.
I do not have a car with a 2JZ, but I do have a car with a 7M, so I feel that I can still contribute to this. German Castrol 0W-30 flows excellently and provides excellent pressure (about 43 PSI at 3000 RPM in my 7M). I live in the mountains of Colorado, and in the middle of Winter, having an oil that flows well on start up is crucial. Even on cold starts, the car starts and runs very smoothly. A 0W-30 oil will ALWAYS flow better on cold starts than a 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil, and when warm, Castrol German is closer to a 40 weight oil.
It's priced the same as the hydro-cracked oil, so I see no reason not to buy it.
Note: there is also an American made 0W-30 Castrol Synthetic oil which is NOT the same as the German Synthetic. The American stuff is simply another overpriced hydrocracked oil. The German oil is, as I said before, a Group IV PAO base oil.
It will say on the front of the bottle 'European Formula'. If not, look on the back under the 'API Service SF, SJ, CF' text. It should say 'Made in Germany'.
02-26-12, 07:42 AM
#7
ive used mobil 1 for the last 10 years and havent had any problems. i usually go with a thicker weight for my cars,(used to be 20-50) now i rock 15-30. royal purple breaks down quicker than mobil 1. i will check autozone for that german oil though.
and don't forget the filter you use mark. i use wix on all my turbo cars.its good quality.
and don't forget the filter you use mark. i use wix on all my turbo cars.its good quality.
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02-26-12, 10:20 AM
#9
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I don't trust Royal Purple after having a strange coincidence of low compression in my RX7 - but that's on a rotary. I know many say stay away from it on boosted motors in general. It does look neat going in though?
Personally, I run Mobil 1 just because I don't feel like ordering oil. I know on Bob Is The Oil Guy forums they were talking about that Mobil 1 had gone down in quality and actually I believe Penzoil Ultra was getting some good marks.
I haven't fully researched this in a while though.
Personally, I run Mobil 1 just because I don't feel like ordering oil. I know on Bob Is The Oil Guy forums they were talking about that Mobil 1 had gone down in quality and actually I believe Penzoil Ultra was getting some good marks.
I haven't fully researched this in a while though.
02-26-12, 11:56 AM
#11
If you mean Castrol Edge with Titanium in the gold bottle, I'm pretty sure that's a Group III. However, in America, oil companies are not required to disclose what base their oil comes from, so I can't be 100% sure. Also, some oils have small amounts of PAO/Ester enhancers.
Just make sure you know what you're paying for.
02-26-12, 12:30 PM
#12
1JZ Single SC400
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I believe you are right about Castrol Titanium. It does say III on it. After more reading about this stuff, it is indeed better than the Castrol syntec brand even tho it is full synthetic also. I have also read that Mobil 1 has gone down in quality through the years. I dont know anything further on why. I have always heard good things until when I recently researched it. Based on the facts Penzoil is listed as one of the tops for the OTC based oils. With all this being said, Amsoil is hard to find here, I have always used Castrol products for years and love it. The verdi t is in, I will be using Castrol Titanium for awhile until otherwise find evidence that leads me elsewhere. Royal Purple is also hard to get in the weight that I wouod like to use. THANKS FOR ALL THE INPUTS!!!!!!
