jgdynamics

iTrader: (16)

good thread.. just ordered my thermal circuit breaker per this thread. good stuff!

edit: btw, cartmill, where did you get that battery tie down?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Mine is still working fine no issues.
I think I may add in that distribution block like in that diagram because it will look alot cleaner than what I have now.
Just double check whatever aftermarket wire you use it is actually the same size or larger than stock.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

I made it.

Its just square stock aluminum from Lowe's with some generic threaded hooks from Autozone from one of their cheap battery tie down kits. It was very sturdy.

I just drilled 2 small holes in the spare tire well there (big enough for the hooks to grab, but not too big) and squirted a little RTV in there to fill in what was left of the little holes. Little generic grommets would work for this as well, but my way worked fine.

eblick99

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the info, im sticking my batt in the trunk for ffim space.

sc300bigtx

iTrader: (13)

Revived
Just want to clarify
I'm relocating battery I to trunk
And I just need to run the positive wires of the alternator, starter, and main fuse box wire straight to positive post on battery?
I will end most likely end up using the distribution block idea and circuit breaker for sure

oldManTan

the simplest way is to just run a positive wire from the trunk to the original positive wire, nothing more. adding a circuit breaker is a great idea as well.

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

Open your fuse box and run one single cable from the circled area to the trunk. Remove the lug under the cover, this is your factory positive battery terminal, and simply extend it to the trunk.

Hope that makes sense.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

interesting , please explain alittle further .. so you are saying that just running a 2 gauge wire from that point will feed starter and alternator to battery , and of course power fusebox , and put say a 150 amp breaker down in trunk by the battery

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

Exactly. You are simply replacing and extending the stock positive terminal that feeds power to the entire fuse box and the rest of the car. You need to add wires for the starter and alternator, but that is where the front distribution block comes in.

Open your fuse box, remove that lug and pull the positive cable from the box and you will see how easy it actually is. IF you have the positive terminal that has the 2 plugs on it, trace those plugs and you will see what requires the hot connection.

I would take pictures of my relocation, but my fuse box is behind the drivers seat now, and 90% of it eliminated.

sc300bigtx

iTrader: (13)

ok cool
so run main power from battery in trunk to distribution block, then branch to fuse box lug and starter
and can I just reuse factory alternator wire? or would it be more efficient to replace with new bigger gauge wire ?

and one last question, where exactly is the stock ground cable coming off the battery connected to, just straight to the frame? I cant remember lol

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

Ill be in my garage tonight, I will draw up a crude diagram of what I have just to be sure that Im using the right wordings, but it seems you have the idea on the right track. I have used 2awg cable ever where a hot 12v connection is needed.

The stock ground cable, IIRC is going to the frame, but also connects somewhere else..but havent looked at a "stock" SC engine bay in a while, but it should connect to the block.

EDIT
Here is what I have in my car currently and had with the 2JZ still in place. Where the starter and Alt meet, I have the cables spliced together and one single cable going to the fuse box with its own eyelet/terminal lug. I then ran a separate 2awg cable from the fuse box to the trunk that connected to the battery. This way cuts down having 3 separate cables running to the battery (2awg cable isnt cheap) and still gives a dedicated cable to the fuse box, starter and alt. I have a secondary distribution block inside my car (optional) that has given me room to hook a separate 12v signal for my headunit, and an inline battery disconnect. I can take the disconnection key out, and nothing gets power except my headunit, just provides good security.

This picture is just the basic layout I have. If you want one with the distro block and a kill switch let me know.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

I moved my fusebox and battery to the trunk. I didn't use a fuse since the only long wire is to the starter. but I can add it anytime since I have a special battery terminal connector. but i'll post a wiring diagram in a few mins.

sc300bigtx

iTrader: (13)

If you wouldn't mind sharing the one with the killswitch as well that would be awesome

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

I currently have mine behind the driver seat, but will be moving it to the trunk in the next couple of weeks.

Here you go. The radio 12v aux cable I have there can go to anything that has memory or that you would like to use without the kill switch in. I also included a pic of the same kill switch I have, I can remove the key and keep it with me if the car is going to stay outside or sit in a parking lot. I also have it hidden inside the car so its difficult to find, and going to add a disconnect for the fuel pump for track use and another security measure.