fazy_uk

Hi everyone,

I recently purchased a 22Amp (Max) High Output Alternator for my '93 Soarer (1UZFE)

I don't want to fry my car so some advice on cabling would be appreciated :-)

As for cabling I am looking at some 'Welding Cable' on that auction site ( 350183286975 ) which is rated at a max of 290A... Am I heading in the right direction? Or is there a better type of cable/rating I should be looking at?

Also, I'd like to put a Breaker switch in there somewhere, would this do the trick? (Item 290447795958 )

I'm just looking at the '220 Amp' output of the alternator and going above that for cable/fuse rating.. Is that a good idea?

Also, when it connects up to the alternator fuse, wont that be too low spec? I'd guess the OEM fuse is about 120Amps, so will this be a problem?


Thanks in advance for any help given, I really want to do this the right way

Andy

scENFORCER

I'm interested in the reponses to this, I want to add a high output alternator to my car as well (200amps).
The alternator I was looking at suggested a 4 gauge fused wire to connect it, which was just what I was going to do..

fazy_uk

Yeah that's whats recommended for my 220A, however I see that most 4Guage wires aren't rated that high, so maybe 2Guage would be safer (Wires melting = not good for my future)

It looks like I'll have to just go solo on this one and report back with my success, or pics of a burnt Soarer shell

Andy

Shadowen

iTrader: (6)

In for results. With wanting to run a car pc and maybe multiple batteries, this may be an option to look into for me.

scENFORCER

My list of upgrades is HID's, bushings (all types), THEN the high output alternator. But I'm starting to think I should bring the alternator to the front of the list lol..

I have a carPC & aftermarket amp all on stock alternator and 1 battery. I had problems at first with the battery dying after a few days of not driving, and the alternator dying on me half way through a drive. All seem to have gone away since I installed a new top of the line Interstate battery. I've only had the battery for about 2 months though, and havent checked how its doing since. It could be dying on me quickley as well, but we'll see I guess. I got a 2 year warranty with it so I'm not worried (also why the high output alternator is at the back of the list). But if it dies on me again I'll put more of an effort into getting that alternator..

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

I recall running dual 145 amp alternators on my boat. I used "0" gauge welding cable. You have to appropriately size the entire system.

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

I guess I need to be clearer about appropriately sizing the entire system. You can't just plug a larger fuse into the 120 amp holder. The holder is not rated high enough. What is on the backside of the holder is not rated high enough, etc. If you are going straight to a battery bank, great. You only have to replace everything between the alternator and the battery bank.

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

You calculate the required wire gauge from the acceptable voltage drop calculated for the length of cable you have to run. If you are putting the battery bank in the trunk, you need some massive wires. If the batteries fit in the engine compartment then the wire gauge # will be higher (i.e. smaller wire).

fazy_uk

Yeah I was worried about the holder and all that gear.

I was wondering, is it okay to totally bypass the OEM alternator fuse and hardwire to the battery with the 250Amp breaker inline? Or is there some other circuitry that I'm missing?

I will have a single 900Ah battery in the OEM location.

Any thoughts? Do you think my original choice of wires/breaker will suffice?

Many thanks

Andy