Issues with SC300
#31
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I have a multimeter. The car is on stock 1jz ecu, no piggy back. Not sure what the harness looks like its completely electrical taped.
Last edited by OneQwkV6; 03-27-12 at 02:49 PM.
#34
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#35
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No leaky caps. I just unpluged the crank sensor and plugged it back in and it reved out, so i get in the car to drive it right back to normal 2k rpm then shut off.
#37
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#38
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It doesn't matter what you see it's what the computer sees via the magnetic sensor on the end of the camshaft/crankshaft sensors. It compares the the two readings to calculate the current timing. If it loses sync at any point (ie a shoddy wiring job like I've seen on 80% of 1JZ swapped SCs). Your ECU will not magically start working again with the sensor that is cutting in and out possibly it'll just go right back into limp mode.
There was a 1JZ swapped SC locally that I fixed by bypassing the FIC since its tune got corrupted and screwed the timing up. The exact same symptoms which are both related to the signal.
Do your self a favor. Get an ohm meter/volt meter out and start comparing values to the FSM. Then wiggle the sensor connectors while monitoring those same values.
There was a 1JZ swapped SC locally that I fixed by bypassing the FIC since its tune got corrupted and screwed the timing up. The exact same symptoms which are both related to the signal.
Do your self a favor. Get an ohm meter/volt meter out and start comparing values to the FSM. Then wiggle the sensor connectors while monitoring those same values.
#40
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Just wondering... what type of shoddy wiring have you seen? These harnesses are pretty simple to do correctly. Just use a 18 gauge copper wiring and a decent quality USB cable for the O2 sensor wiring. Solder everything and heat shrink wrap. It's foolproof and, I would argue, EASIER than crimping or using stupid connectors if you make yourself a little 'assembly line' of wires to solder.
Oh and just as a hail mary suggestion, I had a similar bizarre issue a few weeks ago (but my car wouldn't idle properly in addition to what you have) and couldn't find a source to the problem. Wiring was fine. What was my fix? The lid to my ECU had somehow dented despite the plastic kickpanel covering it. The lid had pressed down on the underside of the circuit board and was contacting the lid through the protective plastic sheet that covers the circuit board. A bit of electrical tape and a few light taps from the hammer to straighten the ECU lid out, and the car was on its way.
Backtrack to the last mods you did and last items you touched on the car. The source of your problem is there. I would check your fuel system since you did not mention anything about fuel pressure but did touch it recently
Oh and just as a hail mary suggestion, I had a similar bizarre issue a few weeks ago (but my car wouldn't idle properly in addition to what you have) and couldn't find a source to the problem. Wiring was fine. What was my fix? The lid to my ECU had somehow dented despite the plastic kickpanel covering it. The lid had pressed down on the underside of the circuit board and was contacting the lid through the protective plastic sheet that covers the circuit board. A bit of electrical tape and a few light taps from the hammer to straighten the ECU lid out, and the car was on its way.
Backtrack to the last mods you did and last items you touched on the car. The source of your problem is there. I would check your fuel system since you did not mention anything about fuel pressure but did touch it recently
#41
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Just wondering... what type of shoddy wiring have you seen? These harnesses are pretty simple to do correctly. Just use a 18 gauge copper wiring and a decent quality USB cable for the O2 sensor wiring. Solder everything and heat shrink wrap. It's foolproof and, I would argue, EASIER than crimping or using stupid connectors if you make yourself a little 'assembly line' of wires to solder.
I agree, I don't think it's hard - but then again, I can unsolder and drag solder components back faster than most people can solder a single wire together.
The last one I saw, the wires were twisted together by hand with electrical tape...most of the tape was gone. I was scared to touch it for fear of frying something. I got his car working for him, and said good luck - fix your wiring.
#43
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Just got back in town. I could bring my car over and swap ECU's with you for a test drive. see if that will help narrow some things down. Hit me up through PM if you haven't sold it yet.
#45
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Update:
I can't get a consistent cel read out before there were no codes yesterday it's reading 1,2 not 12...
I checked to see if the ecu has leaky caps but looks normal.
I can't get a consistent cel read out before there were no codes yesterday it's reading 1,2 not 12...
I checked to see if the ecu has leaky caps but looks normal.