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Issues with SC300

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Old 03-27-12, 02:12 PM
  #31  
OneQwkV6
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I have a multimeter. The car is on stock 1jz ecu, no piggy back. Not sure what the harness looks like its completely electrical taped.

Last edited by OneQwkV6; 03-27-12 at 02:49 PM.
Old 03-27-12, 02:33 PM
  #32  
TechGreek
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Obviously our definition of details differ.
Old 03-27-12, 02:55 PM
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stockhatch
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So did you check the ecu for leaky caps? It sounds like you have a complete hack job wiring nightmare. It would not hurt to ohm out each and every pin at this point.
Old 03-27-12, 03:04 PM
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OneQwkV6
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Originally Posted by stockhatch
So did you check the ecu for leaky caps? It sounds like you have a complete hack job wiring nightmare. It would not hurt to ohm out each and every pin at this point.
I haven't checked for leaky caps but will now. I'm getting the feeling it is.
Old 03-27-12, 03:20 PM
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OneQwkV6
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No leaky caps. I just unpluged the crank sensor and plugged it back in and it reved out, so i get in the car to drive it right back to normal 2k rpm then shut off.
Old 03-27-12, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by OneQwkV6
No leaky caps. I just unpluged the crank sensor and plugged it back in and it reved out, so i get in the car to drive it right back to normal 2k rpm then shut off.
Like I said. Timing Issue. Your computer is hitting a limp mode that wont clear until you pull the fuse.
Old 03-27-12, 06:01 PM
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OneQwkV6
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Originally Posted by TechGreek
Like I said. Timing Issue. Your computer is hitting a limp mode that wont clear until you pull the fuse.
The timing is on and i pulled the fuses still does the same.
Old 03-27-12, 06:11 PM
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It doesn't matter what you see it's what the computer sees via the magnetic sensor on the end of the camshaft/crankshaft sensors. It compares the the two readings to calculate the current timing. If it loses sync at any point (ie a shoddy wiring job like I've seen on 80% of 1JZ swapped SCs). Your ECU will not magically start working again with the sensor that is cutting in and out possibly it'll just go right back into limp mode.

There was a 1JZ swapped SC locally that I fixed by bypassing the FIC since its tune got corrupted and screwed the timing up. The exact same symptoms which are both related to the signal.

Do your self a favor. Get an ohm meter/volt meter out and start comparing values to the FSM. Then wiggle the sensor connectors while monitoring those same values.
Old 03-27-12, 06:13 PM
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Can't edit on the phone. I meant the FIC lost the cam/crankshaft sensor type
Old 03-27-12, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TechGreek
(ie a shoddy wiring job like I've seen on 80% of 1JZ swapped SCs).
Just wondering... what type of shoddy wiring have you seen? These harnesses are pretty simple to do correctly. Just use a 18 gauge copper wiring and a decent quality USB cable for the O2 sensor wiring. Solder everything and heat shrink wrap. It's foolproof and, I would argue, EASIER than crimping or using stupid connectors if you make yourself a little 'assembly line' of wires to solder.


Oh and just as a hail mary suggestion, I had a similar bizarre issue a few weeks ago (but my car wouldn't idle properly in addition to what you have) and couldn't find a source to the problem. Wiring was fine. What was my fix? The lid to my ECU had somehow dented despite the plastic kickpanel covering it. The lid had pressed down on the underside of the circuit board and was contacting the lid through the protective plastic sheet that covers the circuit board. A bit of electrical tape and a few light taps from the hammer to straighten the ECU lid out, and the car was on its way.

Backtrack to the last mods you did and last items you touched on the car. The source of your problem is there. I would check your fuel system since you did not mention anything about fuel pressure but did touch it recently
Old 03-27-12, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by INTIMAZY
Just wondering... what type of shoddy wiring have you seen? These harnesses are pretty simple to do correctly. Just use a 18 gauge copper wiring and a decent quality USB cable for the O2 sensor wiring. Solder everything and heat shrink wrap. It's foolproof and, I would argue, EASIER than crimping or using stupid connectors if you make yourself a little 'assembly line' of wires to solder.
Some people don't understand HOW to solder, nor do they want to learn (the whole tinning the tip, flux, and heating the copper not dropping solder on the tip, keeping excess heat off the wire, not soldering too much to wick into the connection to make it stiff and crack later, etc, etc) Then they use cheap connectors that crimp on, and use a cheap crimp tool which actually doesn't compress the connection properly therefore you end up with wires that will wiggle/come loose with slight tension. Cheap electrical vinyl tape that melts in the engine bay always makes me laugh too.

I agree, I don't think it's hard - but then again, I can unsolder and drag solder components back faster than most people can solder a single wire together.

The last one I saw, the wires were twisted together by hand with electrical tape...most of the tape was gone. I was scared to touch it for fear of frying something. I got his car working for him, and said good luck - fix your wiring.
Old 03-28-12, 08:10 AM
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OneQwkV6
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Decided to just sell the car.

Thanks for the replies...
Old 03-28-12, 01:16 PM
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Just got back in town. I could bring my car over and swap ECU's with you for a test drive. see if that will help narrow some things down. Hit me up through PM if you haven't sold it yet.
Old 03-29-12, 08:24 PM
  #44  
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Thanks for the help.

I got bored today so i wired the o2 sensor.

The car has no cel codes but it still doesn't rev past 2k rpm lol
Old 04-03-12, 08:21 AM
  #45  
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Update:

I can't get a consistent cel read out before there were no codes yesterday it's reading 1,2 not 12...

I checked to see if the ecu has leaky caps but looks normal.


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