1UZ-FE swap complete. S366, Haltech, E85
06-15-15, 08:38 AM
#91
Just for future reference, if someone were using a VVTi 1UZ, they can easily swap to the 3UZ bottom end.
Anyway, I don't recommend bothering with the 2UZ, as Ali stated, they are known for throwing rods, plus the cost of custom pistons would really offset everything.
The biggest problem with nitrous is really the end user, people run way too much nitrous than a motor can handle. The 1UZ also runs pretty rich from the factory, so you really end up using a smaller fuel jet, than normal.
So what ends up happening is people will run the recommended jetting, and as they increase nitrous, they increase the fuel jets.
So what really happens is that the fuel ends up puddling in the intake manifold, and it rushes in an KABOOOM. The videos you see online with guys losing intake manifolds, is from nitrous backfires.
Truthfully, in my honest opinion, I think a 1UZ with full bolt on's, no cats, and direct port should easily exceed a 200 shot, back then I was on a single fogger, and I knew that I was fuel puddling issues (I would get backfires that would pop off the intake) which is why I never exceeded that.
Anyway, I don't recommend bothering with the 2UZ, as Ali stated, they are known for throwing rods, plus the cost of custom pistons would really offset everything.
The biggest problem with nitrous is really the end user, people run way too much nitrous than a motor can handle. The 1UZ also runs pretty rich from the factory, so you really end up using a smaller fuel jet, than normal.
So what ends up happening is people will run the recommended jetting, and as they increase nitrous, they increase the fuel jets.
So what really happens is that the fuel ends up puddling in the intake manifold, and it rushes in an KABOOOM. The videos you see online with guys losing intake manifolds, is from nitrous backfires.
Truthfully, in my honest opinion, I think a 1UZ with full bolt on's, no cats, and direct port should easily exceed a 200 shot, back then I was on a single fogger, and I knew that I was fuel puddling issues (I would get backfires that would pop off the intake) which is why I never exceeded that.
06-15-15, 10:05 AM
#92
Gerrb, I know that car , I know the owner im friends with him.
Jeff is very wealthy person,he gets tired of cars and setup really quick so he goes through setups..
Engine was in perfect shape when he decided to build something new, he gets tired of setup really quick..From bikes, to Supras, truck, Benzs, you name it he goes through them like that.
He just the type that don't keep stuff for too long lol, that's one thing him an I have in common.
He is selling the GS to start another project, its actually in the classifieds since last week.
The car was bad bish, when it was TT V8, was more fun to drive on the 6speed for what I understood..
The V8 setup was working when he decided to pull it out and go 2JZ, Money is no issue with him!!
Jeff is very wealthy person,he gets tired of cars and setup really quick so he goes through setups..
Engine was in perfect shape when he decided to build something new, he gets tired of setup really quick..From bikes, to Supras, truck, Benzs, you name it he goes through them like that.
He just the type that don't keep stuff for too long lol, that's one thing him an I have in common.
He is selling the GS to start another project, its actually in the classifieds since last week.
The car was bad bish, when it was TT V8, was more fun to drive on the 6speed for what I understood..
The V8 setup was working when he decided to pull it out and go 2JZ, Money is no issue with him!!
. We got to pay attention to what we spend. These toys are not cheap to play with .Ok..I just read about his V8 part out, you are right ... damn, parted it out for no reason and now is selling the car with 2jzgte/v160. It sure looks like it is just out of boredom that he lets go of a toy.
Just for future reference, if someone were using a VVTi 1UZ, they can easily swap to the 3UZ bottom end.
Anyway, I don't recommend bothering with the 2UZ, as Ali stated, they are known for throwing rods, plus the cost of custom pistons would really offset everything.
The biggest problem with nitrous is really the end user, people run way too much nitrous than a motor can handle. The 1UZ also runs pretty rich from the factory, so you really end up using a smaller fuel jet, than normal.
So what ends up happening is people will run the recommended jetting, and as they increase nitrous, they increase the fuel jets.
So what really happens is that the fuel ends up puddling in the intake manifold, and it rushes in an KABOOOM. The videos you see online with guys losing intake manifolds, is from nitrous backfires.
Truthfully, in my honest opinion, I think a 1UZ with full bolt on's, no cats, and direct port should easily exceed a 200 shot, back then I was on a single fogger, and I knew that I was fuel puddling issues (I would get backfires that would pop off the intake) which is why I never exceeded that.
Anyway, I don't recommend bothering with the 2UZ, as Ali stated, they are known for throwing rods, plus the cost of custom pistons would really offset everything.
The biggest problem with nitrous is really the end user, people run way too much nitrous than a motor can handle. The 1UZ also runs pretty rich from the factory, so you really end up using a smaller fuel jet, than normal.
So what ends up happening is people will run the recommended jetting, and as they increase nitrous, they increase the fuel jets.
So what really happens is that the fuel ends up puddling in the intake manifold, and it rushes in an KABOOOM. The videos you see online with guys losing intake manifolds, is from nitrous backfires.
Truthfully, in my honest opinion, I think a 1UZ with full bolt on's, no cats, and direct port should easily exceed a 200 shot, back then I was on a single fogger, and I knew that I was fuel puddling issues (I would get backfires that would pop off the intake) which is why I never exceeded that.
Oh... so there is a VVTi 1UZ... let me look into it. The reason why I was looking at a 2UZ is because of the bigger displacement. IF I am really building a car with a UZ, it will definitely have aftermarket forge rods and pistons so I have nothing to worry about stock internals. The 3UZ I believe have only 4.3l displacements .
06-15-15, 12:56 PM
#93
wouldn't it wiser that if you are going all out on a UZFE, that is, building your short block and head with aftermarket parts for power, you might as well use the VVTi head of the 2UZFE. You have a bigger displacement from the block and you get better torque on the lower end from the VVTi. I don't see the point of matching the head of the older UZFE into a 2UZFE if you are going all out and wanted to make real power.
Aftermarket pistons, you can get CP Pistons, Ross, Stock pistons by Enginetech. Rods , the only thing I have seen so far are Eagle Rods and branded by Lextreme and TTC. I will call Carillo and Crower. I know they don't have shelf rods for the UZFE not unless I just missed them in my search.
Aftermarket pistons, you can get CP Pistons, Ross, Stock pistons by Enginetech. Rods , the only thing I have seen so far are Eagle Rods and branded by Lextreme and TTC. I will call Carillo and Crower. I know they don't have shelf rods for the UZFE not unless I just missed them in my search.
the reason they ditch the 2uz head is because it came on a truck motor the head is more of a low revving type setup with the cam and everything, it takes it a while to get spinning up there in the higher rpm's with my GX its almost like it looses its steam, but if you could get cam's for it then yeah I can't see why not. I just looked up TTC performance makes cams for the 2uz, so yeah if cams and springs etc.. would do the trick then no reason not to use it but for a budget build most will probably just slap on a 1uz head and keep it simple with no vvti. just depends.
It is interesting that there are non vvti and vvti 1uz, and same non vvti and vvti 2uz, so there are a bunch of combinations you could pull off or if an all out build was performed then a 2uz.
The 1uz came with a head designed to be more rev friendly since it was in the sports cars, so everything is a little bit better for that. If vvti is what you seek then there is a 1uz vvti head which also has the front facing dual length intake. that would be ideal if you wanted to have vvti and tune it, but I do worry about tuning vvti on such an untested setup. non vvti would be much easier to setup and not have anything move under extreme boost.
to have the aem ems plug in or other supra standalone, you would want to use the 1uz sc400 harness though but you are very experienced in wiring I am sure you have some ideas on that side as well.
06-16-15, 07:19 AM
#94
Good info right there. Yeah , if I am going ahead, it will be built top to bottom so it will have cams / springs & retainers.
Will do a lot of reading for the head, I was told there where 1UZ vvti so that could be the best of both worlds... rev friendly 1UZ head and vvti if ever... but that would be in the air for now, we will see.
for now the 2UZ 4.7l block .. fully built with aftermarket pistons and rods is the way to go for me. Higher displacement always has an advantage. Started searching...a complete swap delivered is $1400.. will see if I can find just a good block / crank locally.. might be cheaper. I will collect parts slowly if ever so the expense won't hurt the pocket all at once and get me discouraged & abandoning the project. Got the shell after all to start with...
I believe I would be able to do all the wiring work and majority of the mechanical work after I got the whole rotating assembly balanced. It is the actual welding / fabrication that I would get someone to do things for me. But I am thinking I would fabricate, do tach welding just to see where things should be ,then get things welded by the professionals. That would save me tons .
this is getting me really excited , rekindling my dreams 7 or 8 years ago.. a high hp boosted SC400. That time , I never worked on cars so it was far fetched for me with all the costs I came up with for a fully built setup. I couldn't stomach the costs then. But now, since I can work on cars ... I think it is more feasible for me and hopefully it is gonna happen this time around.
Just like you said, you pretty much have to be a DIY to make this thing happen or you are spending tons of money which I really don't have.
Will do a lot of reading for the head, I was told there where 1UZ vvti so that could be the best of both worlds... rev friendly 1UZ head and vvti if ever... but that would be in the air for now, we will see.
for now the 2UZ 4.7l block .. fully built with aftermarket pistons and rods is the way to go for me. Higher displacement always has an advantage. Started searching...a complete swap delivered is $1400.. will see if I can find just a good block / crank locally.. might be cheaper. I will collect parts slowly if ever so the expense won't hurt the pocket all at once and get me discouraged & abandoning the project. Got the shell after all to start with...
I believe I would be able to do all the wiring work and majority of the mechanical work after I got the whole rotating assembly balanced. It is the actual welding / fabrication that I would get someone to do things for me. But I am thinking I would fabricate, do tach welding just to see where things should be ,then get things welded by the professionals. That would save me tons .
this is getting me really excited , rekindling my dreams 7 or 8 years ago.. a high hp boosted SC400. That time , I never worked on cars so it was far fetched for me with all the costs I came up with for a fully built setup. I couldn't stomach the costs then. But now, since I can work on cars ... I think it is more feasible for me and hopefully it is gonna happen this time around.
Just like you said, you pretty much have to be a DIY to make this thing happen or you are spending tons of money which I really don't have.
06-16-15, 09:52 AM
#95
Yup that is the winning attitude sir. you should be able to find one locally they came in so many vehicles. you can be surprised what you can turn metal into once you pull out the grinder and of course the most important is the sawzall (unless you have a shop with a band saw). use prefabricated mandrel bends etc.. alot of shops even do it that same way if you were to sit there and watch them do their work. if you can tack weld that is half the battle its better than marking the pieces but a little more tricky. you may have to make a few drives to the welding shop, but you can just think about all the money you saved on the ride over there and the v8 goodness.
I can't even imagine how much it would have been for me to get my FFIM's made from scratch by someone. I just got all the hardware and started measuring and marking, and dropped it off at the machine/welder told him what I wanted removed and what I wanted to stay and where to weld it, and usually costs no more than an hour or 2 of labor. In my experience I find many machinists to be ex-gear heads or motorcycle guys and they enjoy doing that stuff. There are some shops that will refuse to touch your parts when you say its going on a car for liability reasons, so tell them its a track car. you will want to find the shop that is too old to care about that sort of thing. I usually end up tipping my aluminum shop here cause their rate is so good and the welds are just so much better than I could do in like 10 years of welding. for me its the best also cause I don't have to go off someone else's design, my fav parts are the design stages, there might be thousands of FFIM's out there for the 2jz-ge, but mine is a custom length and I got to handpick where every vacuum bung comes out of. I mean the guy at the shop wont know I am so picky I want my map sensor plumbed inbetween runner 3 and 4 so its right in the center of the FFIM, nope they wouldn't know that stuff at all (they should), but usually they will follow directions to a Tee, I never had anything come back that didn't fit or wasn't welded properly.
I never knew until I tried it then I got used to the process. every time I go there its actually fun they are always working on something new last time I went there they were welding together a whole aluminum food truck enclosure from scratch I could have sat there for hours watching them do their craft it is truly an art, but design most people can do on a sheet of paper, in their head, or even on a computer these days.
I can't even imagine how much it would have been for me to get my FFIM's made from scratch by someone. I just got all the hardware and started measuring and marking, and dropped it off at the machine/welder told him what I wanted removed and what I wanted to stay and where to weld it, and usually costs no more than an hour or 2 of labor. In my experience I find many machinists to be ex-gear heads or motorcycle guys and they enjoy doing that stuff. There are some shops that will refuse to touch your parts when you say its going on a car for liability reasons, so tell them its a track car. you will want to find the shop that is too old to care about that sort of thing. I usually end up tipping my aluminum shop here cause their rate is so good and the welds are just so much better than I could do in like 10 years of welding. for me its the best also cause I don't have to go off someone else's design, my fav parts are the design stages, there might be thousands of FFIM's out there for the 2jz-ge, but mine is a custom length and I got to handpick where every vacuum bung comes out of. I mean the guy at the shop wont know I am so picky I want my map sensor plumbed inbetween runner 3 and 4 so its right in the center of the FFIM, nope they wouldn't know that stuff at all (they should), but usually they will follow directions to a Tee, I never had anything come back that didn't fit or wasn't welded properly.
I never knew until I tried it then I got used to the process. every time I go there its actually fun they are always working on something new last time I went there they were welding together a whole aluminum food truck enclosure from scratch I could have sat there for hours watching them do their craft it is truly an art, but design most people can do on a sheet of paper, in their head, or even on a computer these days.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-16-15 at 09:59 AM.
06-16-15, 02:12 PM
#98
Megasquirt is alright but for the plug and play stuff they ask too much in my opinion, and I usually have better things to do then sit down and solder for hours what should have been done at a factory in the first place. The DIY stuff is not bad if you have the time for all that stuff, and you can keep adding features etc..
yeah the vvti blocks have weaker internals from the factory, but the general blocks should be the same. not sure if anyone has tried to slap a 1uz vvti head on a 2uz though or a non vvti 1uz, but definitely people have put non vvti 1uz heads on 2uz blocks before with custom pistons. as long as there is nothing in the way of the vvti actuator it should fit on there.
yeah the vvti blocks have weaker internals from the factory, but the general blocks should be the same. not sure if anyone has tried to slap a 1uz vvti head on a 2uz though or a non vvti 1uz, but definitely people have put non vvti 1uz heads on 2uz blocks before with custom pistons. as long as there is nothing in the way of the vvti actuator it should fit on there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KahnBB6
Performance & Maintenance
8
04-16-13 11:17 AM
