Bad Engine Skip
#16
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Here's a link that will help with an spark plug change, it has the pictures and info on removing the intake hardware. I propped the trottle open and sprayed directly into the throttle body. I would have used a tooth brush but the Havoline cleaner melted all of the goop without any manual effort on my part. The areosol pressure was sufficient to blow off carbon.
I've tried the tranny fluid change (2 times)and admit it helped a little. I'm going to try the EGR Gasket change this weekend,,, I've heard from other post that it works like a charm. Any comments about would be much appreciated. Thanks
I've tried the tranny fluid change (2 times)and admit it helped a little. I'm going to try the EGR Gasket change this weekend,,, I've heard from other post that it works like a charm. Any comments about would be much appreciated. Thanks
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I've been having the same problem with my LS for a long time now.
Even after new air filter/plugs(double check on gapping even)/wires/caps/rotors/fuel filter/ I still have the vibrating engine at certain RPM and a stuttering/skipping engine if I hold the gas at certail points below 1100RPM. I can watch the tachometer skip and what 'seems' to be the engine mis-firing. My 0-60 times are below what they should be, running an average of 9 seconds 0-60.
The suggestions I have so far to fix the problem are the motor mounts (ok condition, not broken nor excellent) the fuel injectors, fuel pump, throttle body cleaning, and MAF meter.
I have not done any of the above suggested things yet, those are costly things to fix (mnus the throttle body cleaning). I have a friend at a shop who is going to order a new MAF and let me test it for a few days to see if it helps.
Also just a warning, the throttle body cleaners you use may damage the throttle position sensor (TPS) it's recommended to spray cleaner on a rag then wipe out the inside of the throttle body.
Even after new air filter/plugs(double check on gapping even)/wires/caps/rotors/fuel filter/ I still have the vibrating engine at certain RPM and a stuttering/skipping engine if I hold the gas at certail points below 1100RPM. I can watch the tachometer skip and what 'seems' to be the engine mis-firing. My 0-60 times are below what they should be, running an average of 9 seconds 0-60.
The suggestions I have so far to fix the problem are the motor mounts (ok condition, not broken nor excellent) the fuel injectors, fuel pump, throttle body cleaning, and MAF meter.
I have not done any of the above suggested things yet, those are costly things to fix (mnus the throttle body cleaning). I have a friend at a shop who is going to order a new MAF and let me test it for a few days to see if it helps.
Also just a warning, the throttle body cleaners you use may damage the throttle position sensor (TPS) it's recommended to spray cleaner on a rag then wipe out the inside of the throttle body.
Last edited by Lvangundy; 10-31-02 at 11:05 AM.
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Well, I decided to clean the TB on my SC4 today. I took the rubber boot off. There is a bolt on the back of the engine which hold it in place. You have to take the Traction control cocer off to see it. Once I got the boot off, here is what i noticed
Outer butterfly open
Inner butterfly closed.
All looked pretty clean, but I sprayed some carb cleaner in it any way.
Then I decided to see if it would run. Surprise, the car runs fines with the whit the maf dissconected. How is this possible?? Anyway, after putting it all back together, it seems to run a little better but nothing dramatic.
I wonder if we can run these cars without the MAF at all, just a straight tube to a cold air source??
Outer butterfly open
Inner butterfly closed.
All looked pretty clean, but I sprayed some carb cleaner in it any way.
Then I decided to see if it would run. Surprise, the car runs fines with the whit the maf dissconected. How is this possible?? Anyway, after putting it all back together, it seems to run a little better but nothing dramatic.
I wonder if we can run these cars without the MAF at all, just a straight tube to a cold air source??
#20
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ho Ho ho!
Try disconnecting the MAF power connection, THEN giving the car some gas.
CHOKE CHOKE CHOKE ---- STALL!
I tried this just to see what happens, kept the intake tube on, but unplugged the MAF power connector, the check engine light came on. Put my foot on the pedal tried to rev, RPMs go up and down and up and down all over the place eventually the car stalls.
Also, try removing your air filter, then put your hand around/over the intake tube, INSTANT stall. LOL
Try disconnecting the MAF power connection, THEN giving the car some gas.
CHOKE CHOKE CHOKE ---- STALL!
I tried this just to see what happens, kept the intake tube on, but unplugged the MAF power connector, the check engine light came on. Put my foot on the pedal tried to rev, RPMs go up and down and up and down all over the place eventually the car stalls.
Also, try removing your air filter, then put your hand around/over the intake tube, INSTANT stall. LOL
#21
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I did rev the gas with the maf disconnected and it revved up fine. This is what was so surprising. BTW, my check engine light was on before this, so maybe it is running on some kind of internal base map?? This needs to be looked into further.
Raj
Raj
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Hmm.. interesting.
What year is your SC? Maybe the intake/engine management system is different on the SC than the LS. It hsould be the same if not similar.
Anyone else want to confirm this on their SC? Try disconnecting the power to the MAF and rev the engine.
What year is your SC? Maybe the intake/engine management system is different on the SC than the LS. It hsould be the same if not similar.
Anyone else want to confirm this on their SC? Try disconnecting the power to the MAF and rev the engine.
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Do you notice the vibration coming through the Shifter lever?
I seem to remember hearing that the SC models had a common occurance where the tranny mount (rubber isolator) would "go bad". This could easily cause driveline vibration when the torque converter is locked up...
Food for thought.
I seem to remember hearing that the SC models had a common occurance where the tranny mount (rubber isolator) would "go bad". This could easily cause driveline vibration when the torque converter is locked up...
Food for thought.
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Mine is a 1992 SC. However, I did not disconnect the connector to the MAF. Its just that the intake tube to it was taken off. Therefore, there was no air going through it. The MAF has been identified as a significant restriction in the intake system. It would be interesting to see how it drove with the intake tube just taken off.
Raj
Raj
#25
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my guess is it would drive like crap if you took off the intake tube and just left the hole wide open where you took it off of the engine. the only air you'd get in would be extremely hot air from the engine bay, and it wouldnt be funneled or guided into it in any way. lets not to mention the lack of no filter means terrible air quality and the danger of crap flying into your engine =]
#26
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Originally posted by kylesc400
my guess is it would drive like crap if you took off the intake tube and just left the hole wide open where you took it off of the engine. the only air you'd get in would be extremely hot air from the engine bay, and it wouldnt be funneled or guided into it in any way. lets not to mention the lack of no filter means terrible air quality and the danger of crap flying into your engine =]
my guess is it would drive like crap if you took off the intake tube and just left the hole wide open where you took it off of the engine. the only air you'd get in would be extremely hot air from the engine bay, and it wouldnt be funneled or guided into it in any way. lets not to mention the lack of no filter means terrible air quality and the danger of crap flying into your engine =]
#27
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Big News! After cleaning throttle body I noticed a great difference, but after installing new wires,rotors, and Denso Iridium plugs, my SC feel like a brand new car! I'm glad I didn't tinker with the MAF or TPS. I also bought a EGR Valve gasket to see how it affects the 40-42 mph rumble on accelerated inclines. I have not installed it yet but I will this week. Have any of you changed the gasket? What was the result? Thanks
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Originally posted by rboorgu
This is not my point. How is it running at all???
This is not my point. How is it running at all???
#29
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I also bought a EGR Valve gasket to see how it affects the 40-42 mph rumble on accelerated inclines. I have not installed it yet but I will this week. Have any of you changed the gasket? What was the result? Thanks
sc4me,
I have done the EGR gasket change, it was easy to do BUT, it did nothing for the rumble that you describe. I had changed mine out in hopes of finding a cure for the 40-45mph mis/hesitation and it did nothing for that. The rumble you describe is VERY similiar to one i had, I would liken the feel to running over a series of rumble strips on the highway. A tranny drain and fill (not a complete flush) cured that problem for me easy. No more rumble. A tranny flush & fill was done months later in hopes of correcting the mis/hesitation I described to no avail.
Hope the info helps
jw
sc4me,
I have done the EGR gasket change, it was easy to do BUT, it did nothing for the rumble that you describe. I had changed mine out in hopes of finding a cure for the 40-45mph mis/hesitation and it did nothing for that. The rumble you describe is VERY similiar to one i had, I would liken the feel to running over a series of rumble strips on the highway. A tranny drain and fill (not a complete flush) cured that problem for me easy. No more rumble. A tranny flush & fill was done months later in hopes of correcting the mis/hesitation I described to no avail.
Hope the info helps
jw
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