DIY Replace Fuel Filter and New Flange Nuts
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DIY Replace Fuel Filter and New Flange Nuts
Here is a small DIY on replacing the old rusty flange nuts you have that are rounded off for you people who had owners of your car and didn't care about ever replacing anything. This is a last resort option before replacing the whole fuel lines from the tank to the filter and from the filter into the engine bay.
Remember- Your fuel lines are high pressure and this is not a fun job to do on the ground!
BEFORE STARTING
Run your car dry of fuel or make sure you are down to almost NO gas. If you don't you will have fuel leaking on you the entire time of this project which is not fun.
Pull the fuel pump connector and crank over car until it won't start.
Make sure you have fuel in a gas can around the garage with premium gas in it.
Release the pressure in your tank by taking off the gas cap!
TOOLS NEEDED
New Fuel Filter
New Flange Nuts (Two 8mm tube size M14x1.5 are what I used, more info/pics in tutorial)
Flanging Tool Kit ( Rent from Autozone)
Something to cut fuel lines (I used a hack-saw)
14mm wrench
3/4 wrench
Metal File
Bucket (If all fuel is not drained)
Procedure
First off, set up your car like you will change the fuel filter, jack it up, release pressure in tank, and make sure tank is dry. Next let us look at our old crappy filter...
Now that I see there is no way to get this off and I called all the local junkyards to see if there was a SC300 with the fuel lines on it ( and there was none), I have decided I must reflange these fittings instead of spending a lot of money to get it fixed. So, I get my hacksaw and cut both ends right by the flange nuts to get the filter out and here it is!
Now let us look at that cut job...
So now I get my nut and put it on the line. This part is extremely tricky! Since I used 5/16 tube size flange nuts and not 8mm, I had to get a drill and make the inside a little bigger! Please people, take the time and order the right nuts so you don't get frustrated like I was! The cuts you made also might need to be filed down a little bit to get on the nut. You will also need to straighten out the fuel lines to get flange nut on possibly. Do NOT crimp and screw up your fuel line! I used this nut (box for nut in next picture) from autozone, the thread length was the exact amount it need to be screwed into the fuel filter. I would HIGHLY recommend getting the proper nut with longer threads! Probably at least a half inch longer than what I got or you might have leaking problems almost like I did!
After you have the flange nut on, put on the flanging tool and get ready to flange your fuel line!
So after the line is flanged, take a moment to look at the work of art you just created.
Now continue to do the same to the other side and DO NOT forget to put on the nut! After both sides are flanged, and you are confident the fitment is right with the flange bolts, go ahead and bend your lines slightly and put on your fuel filter!
Now turn on your car after putting gas in it and start it up and check for leaks! You might want to take it for a drive and get on it a little bit just to make sure there is absolutely no leaks! I had one small leak because the thread length I used on the flange nut was the exact amount needed to thread into the filter, so I should've ordered a nut with longer thread length. Good luck guys!
Remember- Your fuel lines are high pressure and this is not a fun job to do on the ground!
BEFORE STARTING
Run your car dry of fuel or make sure you are down to almost NO gas. If you don't you will have fuel leaking on you the entire time of this project which is not fun.
Pull the fuel pump connector and crank over car until it won't start.
Make sure you have fuel in a gas can around the garage with premium gas in it.
Release the pressure in your tank by taking off the gas cap!
TOOLS NEEDED
New Fuel Filter
New Flange Nuts (Two 8mm tube size M14x1.5 are what I used, more info/pics in tutorial)
Flanging Tool Kit ( Rent from Autozone)
Something to cut fuel lines (I used a hack-saw)
14mm wrench
3/4 wrench
Metal File
Bucket (If all fuel is not drained)
Procedure
First off, set up your car like you will change the fuel filter, jack it up, release pressure in tank, and make sure tank is dry. Next let us look at our old crappy filter...
Now that I see there is no way to get this off and I called all the local junkyards to see if there was a SC300 with the fuel lines on it ( and there was none), I have decided I must reflange these fittings instead of spending a lot of money to get it fixed. So, I get my hacksaw and cut both ends right by the flange nuts to get the filter out and here it is!
Now let us look at that cut job...
So now I get my nut and put it on the line. This part is extremely tricky! Since I used 5/16 tube size flange nuts and not 8mm, I had to get a drill and make the inside a little bigger! Please people, take the time and order the right nuts so you don't get frustrated like I was! The cuts you made also might need to be filed down a little bit to get on the nut. You will also need to straighten out the fuel lines to get flange nut on possibly. Do NOT crimp and screw up your fuel line! I used this nut (box for nut in next picture) from autozone, the thread length was the exact amount it need to be screwed into the fuel filter. I would HIGHLY recommend getting the proper nut with longer threads! Probably at least a half inch longer than what I got or you might have leaking problems almost like I did!
After you have the flange nut on, put on the flanging tool and get ready to flange your fuel line!
So after the line is flanged, take a moment to look at the work of art you just created.
Now continue to do the same to the other side and DO NOT forget to put on the nut! After both sides are flanged, and you are confident the fitment is right with the flange bolts, go ahead and bend your lines slightly and put on your fuel filter!
Now turn on your car after putting gas in it and start it up and check for leaks! You might want to take it for a drive and get on it a little bit just to make sure there is absolutely no leaks! I had one small leak because the thread length I used on the flange nut was the exact amount needed to thread into the filter, so I should've ordered a nut with longer thread length. Good luck guys!
#2
DAMMIT!
I missed this thread by exactly 8 days.
I ended up being one of those that gave up and ran new lines. Really isn't hard to do in these cars. The fuel tank location makes it really easy to do without pulling the tank out. Hardest part is routing the line outside the trunk underneath the car.
Nice writeup! Wish it could have helped me.
I missed this thread by exactly 8 days.
I ended up being one of those that gave up and ran new lines. Really isn't hard to do in these cars. The fuel tank location makes it really easy to do without pulling the tank out. Hardest part is routing the line outside the trunk underneath the car.
Nice writeup! Wish it could have helped me.
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Thank you! Any other small projects I do that people usually preform with a new SC I will also do a write-up on! I'm thinking engine bay tune-up and clean will be next! Read my thread in a few hours and you will see what I'm going to be doing as a tune-up process!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-project.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...d-project.html
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This process does take a long time to do if you don't drain out all the gas. If you do have all the gas drained out, then it should be fairly easy to do. I had no other choice than to do this because those fittings were not coming off at all.
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I was! I was praying it would not spark at all! I had a fan blowing on the area for a while so I thought all would be good, and it was! I know there are different types of saw blades and there are ones that won't spark when in contact with other metal, but I do not know if I had one of those types.
#15
Question: Even though you drained the tank and ran the fuel out of the lines ... weren't you at least a little concernd about using a hacksaw around those vapors?
A hack saw is the appropriate tool for this kind of job (a hand tool on a fuel line). Sparks basically don't happen.
But! It is a very dangerous / very bad idea to use a dremel or air-cutter because of the spark danger from a spinning-cutting-wheel-on-steel or electric tool (spark source).
A hack saw is the appropriate tool for this kind of job (a hand tool on a fuel line). Sparks basically don't happen.
But! It is a very dangerous / very bad idea to use a dremel or air-cutter because of the spark danger from a spinning-cutting-wheel-on-steel or electric tool (spark source).