Could you post up some finished pictures of the bell housing after being modded to fit the 1UZ? I'm compiling everything for my cd009 swap as well

 

I havnt done it yet, Brett said that hooking up the adapter and cutting the difference in where the starter goes will work

 

ive been hearing about "kniving" the starter gear. I dont get it, what does it mean to do this?

also I hate how this thread has died and I am in the middle of this swap.

 

I have no idea about kniving, maybe sharpen the teeth or something lol, no clue.. Although it has fairly died off, I would really like to know as much as I can about the swap. I'm tackling the same thing as soon as I can find a daily

 

the description from collins reads:

"You should 'knife' the 1UZ starter gear by shaving one side of the tooth down. so when the starter plunges out to engage with the flywheel it doesn't hit the face of the flywheel and slips right past it, the proper side to shave down is the opposite side of which side that has wear marks on it." [sic]


this doesnt make sense to me, is the gear on the custom flywheel not the right size? I dont see how it would slip past it.

also I dont feel a grinder is going to work for such a thing, dremel? file?

 

I asked a wrecker to measure the shifter placement of a Frontier 6-speed and he advised the center of the shifter is located 26" behind the bell housing. I'm guessing the Collins adapter is at least an inch and a half thick. Seems like it would need a simple swan-neck shifter to line up perfectly in the SC/MKIV.

 

what am I to buy for a clutch line that will connect a toyota master cylinder to a nissan slave?

 

Any updates for shifter placement options ? This is really the only part of the swap that seems to be the major hurdle for it being a bolt on affair.

 

yeah my frankenstein setup appears to work ok, the shifter is in a good place and has nice and short throws. I really want to try a frontier/xterra 2WD 6spd transmission to see if that could be more 'bolt-on', but 26", if correct, is a bit too short i think. the ideal location is in the 30 inch mark, and the adapter doesn't add much thickness because we shave 5/8 inch off the bell housing. That is almost opposite of the shortened 350z shifter approach, which is about 3 inches too long (though works for 1UZ i guess!)

 

couldn't you take another 2 inches off this selector rod by removing the u joint.
either cut and weld or press out the u joint and use the hole for a regular bolt and nut.
Just not sure how well it would shift without it, but if its able to work without it that would be a neat trick.

*edit nevermind you have to keep the u joint in the shifter rod, this guy said he got it to 30".
this is interesting
"might be able to locate the u-joint closer by drilling a new mount hole for the shifter u-joint on the trans shifter rod but still investigating alternate methods of locating the shifter" this makes sense the further you can get it on the rod, the shorter it will be. might have to get a trans and see how short I can get it.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/want-a-6-...575032-30.html

 

I forget the exact one, but at one point i posted the line i used. It went from the slave to the existing line. It didnt go all the way back to the master. I belive it was a 240 line.

 

is anyone else in here running the twin disc set up because it seems like I'm the only one running it and that one I cannot shave anything off the transmission is that why I'm having fitment issues to get it in the tunnel?

 

I did not shave anything off the trans on my setup. Nobody mentioned anything about shaving when I did my setup. It's a ***** to get in there. I dread the day I have to take it back out. I did have to hammer the tunnel a bit to get it to fit. I also had to tilt the motor back as far as it would go. Then I was 'barely' able to get it on/off. It was much easier to do with the motor out of the car, but that's not the most realistic approach every time you want to take off the trans.

I feel your pain, but it can be done.

 

So I notched the transmission for the starter at a clearance of about half an inch.




maybe I did too much, IDK. but there isnt really any reference to how much.

 

You used the collins kit I assume. If you use the Maverick kit you have to shave the bellhousing. I think the older Collins kits are the same way. I am using a Maverick kit for mine because I figure the closer to the engine the transmission is the less 'massaging' of the trans tunnel I will have to do in my E36. I think my tunnel is even smaller than the SC!

There is a guy on SF working on a really slick adapter to use a W58 bellhousing on a CD009, which would be amazing!