aaron2414

Alright, so simply put... read my title lol!
I have just a few questions...

1 - do I HAVE to take my camshafts completely out to do this task? I have seen a few write ups where the guys all took their camshafts out and left the valves in.

2 - I DO have an engine knock (after an overheat...hence the need to change my gasket) and although I suspect there might have been some head warpage, if I change the valve seals does anyone think that will help anything?

3 - Just need to know torque ratings for the head bolts, and gap distances for the intake and exhaust valves. I have new studs coming as well as a complete head gasket set... every seal on the engine head will be replaced if I can find all the correct settings.

(Questions 2 and 3 are only if I have to take the camshafts out... but might do that anyway. Just looking at options)

I am doing a simple gasket swap for this upcoming Texas summer until I can save enough money to do a turbo build with a 1JZ head swap... in the fall. So, any help from anyone would be great. Im kind of a 2JZ newb :-p

THANKS PROS!
-Aaron J

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

1) the only way to get the head off the car is to remove the cams, the cam caps are a 10mm 6 point and they get torqued to about 14 pounds the cam caps are numbered as well as directional and have arrows that always point forward and also have letters on the cap I for intake and E exhaust. Here is a quick reference guide to frequent torque #- head bolts = 25 ft lbs mark ft of bolt and go another 90 x 2, 180 degrees total
- connecting rod caps= 22 ft lbs mark and go another 90 degrees
- main bearing caps= 33ft lbs then mark bolt and go 90 degrees farther
- cam bearing caps= 14,ft lbs in three passes
- inner timing belt cover= 78 in lbs
- cam gear bolts = 59 ft lbs
- valve cover bolts = 74 in lbs
- inner intake manifold 7 bolts =20 ft lbs
- fuel inlet pipe= 30 ft lbs
- exhaust manifolds 29 ft lbs
- turbos= 40 ft lbs
- rear main seal plate 6 bolts = 52 in lbs
- upper oil pan #1 oil pan 22 bolts/12mm bolts= 15 ftlbs,14mm bolts= 29 ft lbs
- turbo outlet pipe 2 nuts= 20 ft lbs
- oil pan baffel plate 5 bolts,2 nuts= 78 in lbs
- oil pickup = 78 in lbs
- #2 oil pan lower pan 16 bolts 2 nuts= 78 in lbs
- oil pump 9 bolts 15 ft lbs
- inner water pump housing= 15 ft lbs
- water pump 15 ft lbs
- flywheel M/T 8 bolts 36 ft lbs then mark bolt and go another 90 degrees
- flywheel A/T 8 bolts 61 ft lbs
Here is a TSRM manual for all your sequences and lots of other info

http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/en/...80/a80tsrm.htm

If you use ARP head studs follow the sequence but the torque is 90lbs in 3 passes
You will need to get ahold off a T-55 to remove the head bolts and if you go back with ARP (recommended) you will need to get ahold of a 1/2 thin wall deep 12 point socket 3/8 drive. And use the lube provided also you will have to put the washers in their seats prior to putting the head over the studs(arp only)

2) the valves have a bucket on top of them and pulling the head will not affect them but do not drop the buckets out of the head as they are all designed and shimed for each valve they sit on top off I would recommend while the head is off to send it to be checked as it will mostly likely need to be decked and while there put in new Viton seals about $40-50 in parts plus labor.

Recommend replacing the 2 cam seals OEM only and change the valve cover gaskets and do your self a favor and pick up FIPG from you friendly T dealer as you will need a little.

The knock maybe a much larger problem as you may have a spun bearing. this will not fix its self and will cost you significant$$$$ if you pretend its gone.

Good luck hope this helps.