wmulli

Great pics, Thanx!!!!

I've been wondering how the I/C piping was routed to use the stock intake.

Can you post some pictures of the downpipe section?

Finally, are you running a single exhaust? If so, what's the reasoning behind it?

Again, thanks! Looks like you're well on your way to a great car :-)

Angel

I will hopefully grab some more pictures when I get to the shop on Sunday. I couldn't get pictures of the downpipe section yet because the car was like 7 feet in the air and I was standing on the bed of a pickup truck to take those pictures So I will get some pictures while it is on the ground this weekend, hopefully.

Yes, I am running a single exhaust. My basic reasoning was, Less weight, quicker, easier, and cheaper. I have been an MR2 fan for years and have had 3 MR2s and I have seen that most power gains in the MR2 actually come when people go to a bigger single exit exhaust, rather than stick with duals, even though they look nicer.

If this exhaust doesn't work out as I plan, I will be trying to go back to dual exhaust, but I haven't configured a setup yet, because I am hoping to have good results with this one.

Thanks for the compliments!

5spdSC300

iTrader: (1)

how much was that manifold if you don't mine me asking and its made for the ge head?

wmulli

I'm curious about where you put the FPR. I thought it should go on the return line so that the pressure to the injectors would stay constant?!? Why did you decide to put it on the feed line? Not that I'm disagreeing with you, just hoping to learn more Thanx again for the updates. I think they will be a great help when I get started on my own project

Angel

Yes, it is for the GE head. The manifold was included in the turbo kit, so I can't really give you a price. If you call Sound-Performance, they may be able to give you a price on individual parts. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Angel

Ok, lets see if I can word this all correctly so that we can both understand it, lol

The one feed line goes to the inlet of the FPR, the return line goes back to the tank, and the outlet goes to the rail. Reason being ... at least this is what we are figuring on... When there is low demand for fuel, the fuel going through the FPR will just recirculate back and the car will be basically just using the fuel from one pump. When the fuel pressure drops and there is higher demand for fuel, it will then use the 2nd pump (this is what we are hoping).

We have also considered T-ing the lines together and running them both directly to the FPR. We might be doing a little more research here to see what other people have done, however, I am satisfied with the current setup for now, unless anyone can give me a reason not to do it like that. I did see in a previous post that someone else used a setup that was identical, so that gave me some reassurance that it will work that way.

Any more questions, feel free to ask.

I won't have anymore updates/pictures for a little bit, because we won't be working on the car for about a week or so.

Angel

Once again, long time, no updates ... just haven't gotten much work done.

Yesterday (02/02/03) exhaust was welded on, so that is taken care of. Oil pan was dropped and tapped for oil return line. That line should be completed today. That is about all for now, just thought I would keep the updates coming.

Angel

Today (02/08/03)

Oil return line and oil feed line are finished. Injector clips are finally on and intake manifold is permanently bolted back on.

I think all we have left is ... making sure fuel system is 100% good to go, putting IC pipes and air filter on, plug in AEM and wire up wideband O2 setup, IAT sensor, and 3 bar map sensor.

Shooting for having this thing running on Valentines Day.

Angel

Yesterday (02/10/03)...

Put in the AEM EMS. Wired up the IAT sensor and the 3 bar Map sensor. Also put the radiator back in, and the shroud and fan that goes behind it.

Need to wire up the boost solenoid yet, the wideband O2 sensor yet ... need to make better brackets for front mount intercooler .. need to hook up a few vacuum lines and hook up one more fuel line. I think that is about it.

We also put 16lbs of pressure into the radiator to check for coolant leak ... left it sit overnight, hope the results this morning were good, will find out later.

95sc300t

Thanks for keeping up the information angel! I am about to embark on a turbo for my 95 SC300 (Notice the t at the end of my sig?

My question, is what mods did you have to do to use the AEM with the system? I have an AEM that will be used with my 93 Supra, which is being built into an 800 HP beast, but I wasn't sure if it would work with the distributor, and other differences in the SC300's..

I plan on using a Liquid/Air intercooler, to simplify the pipes for the intake system.

I'm also tempted to just put new Supra pistons in, instead of a thicker head gasket to get the better forged pistons, at the same time as lowering the compression.. Did you consider that angle?

Thanks, and keep up the good work!

Norm

Angel

Good luck with your project.

As far as the AEM ... I am not going to be able to answer your question just yet. Basically we are trying to use it as a Plug and Play unit, just as AEM suggests. You will need an IAT sensor, 3 bar Map Sensor, Boost Solenoid, and Wideband O2 sensor with controller (the first 3 sensors I mentioned all need pigtails, and the wideband should have an optional display - $$$$).

So, until we actually get the car running, I can't really say what all needs to be changed, but there are some differences in the NA SC300 than in the Supra TT, so you need to have wiring diagrams of both. I know we moved pin 66 to pin 62 (because 62 wasn't used on the SC300) and I also know that the Air Flow meters in the SC300 are different than the Supra TT, so you need to be careful not to hook up the wrong wires there either.

I will keep you more updated as I find out more (hopefully within a couple of days).

I never considered putting in the Supra Pistons because I am confident in the stock pistons for the HP I am aiming for. As for the compression, I was recently reading up on the Supra Forum that the 3.0mm headgasket should lower our compression to like 8.0:1 or something crazy like that, I am rough-guessing that the 2.0mm should put us around 8.5:1 which is what I was aiming for. While I understand the need of forged pistons, i am figuring I will put the stock pistons to the test and if they don't hold up, then I will simply put out the dough for custom forged pistons anyway.

Thanks, take care, hope I could help a bit.

motorheaddown

Angel,

Pin E9-66 to E9-62 is the right choice for both the NA Supra and sc300 (as you know). The AEM unit uses the TT turbo pressure for the MAP sensor input.

As far as c/r, you might have read the thread I posted on SF:
http://www.supraforums.com/showthrea...threadid=97349

Just remember to take my calculations with a grain of salt. As the subject says it's "Theory versus practice". I plan to determine the *actual* c/r after the head is back on my car by measuring the difference in the squish-band height. But until then, those numbers I provided are just that... numbers.

Also, keep in mind the TT was designed for 8.5:1. You're probably going to boost well above the targeted boost level not to mention the additional heat of the compressed air. Consequently, running even lower compression is *not* a bad idea especially if you're not going to beef up the pistons. If I could find a 2.5mm hg, that would be my choice.

-scott

95sc300t

motorheaddown, I'm of the same thought as you here.. I rebuilt the engine on my 93 Talon just to "freshen" up everything, and put in 8.5 to 1 pistons in at that time.. It sucked, as I was getting detination at as low as 9 or 10 psi on 91 octain. I built an alcohol/water injection system to help, and that let me get to 15 psi or so. The STOCK compression on the Talon was actually 7.9 to 1, so I should have stuck with that.

The advantage to having 8.0 to 1 or at max 8.25 to 1 is that if you are taking a cross-country trip, you can turn the boost all the way down, or even off, and run some regular unleaded, to get you to another state.. But, the fact is, the Turbo makes the power, not so much the compression, especially when running race gas. Your pre-turbo power would obvyously be down some, but if you go with a 2800 or 3200 stall converter, then you will be right into the power almost off the line anyways.

Does all this make sense? I'm not speaking from the stone tablets here, just what I've kind'a figured out in practice over the last few years.

motorheaddown

95sc300t,

It makes sense to me, but the advantage 2jz owners have in this instance is that not many people report detonation even running high boost levels on a NA-T motors using only a TT hg. So, I go back to my original post about "Theory versus practice"; if high boost works on an NA-T at a c/r of 8.5:1 without detonation, you can't argue with that. In this case, "practice" wins over "theory".

-scott

95sc300t

I can deal with that. Fact is, that it is possible that the machine work was done poorly on my old Talon, with poorly boared cylinders, making piston-slap a possibility, causing false detination readings.. ?

Anyways, the combustion chamber design, and piston head shape can have a lot to do with detination also, so the 2jz design could simply be superior along those lines.. I still can't get over how friggin SMALL the vavles, and exhaust ports are on these cars.. Its amazing how much power they can make with such small holes for the air...

Anyways, I expect to start with something along the lines of a T-57 turbo, for very quick spool-up, and approximately 350 horsepower, but will probably end up with something like the SP63 turbo, with 500 HP. I'll have to for sure get a Sound Performance rebuild done to my tranny by that time, as it has 124000 miles on it right now, and wouldn't hold up even when new.