please help!!!! sc300 shaking over 60mph
05-16-12, 07:53 PM
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please help!!!! sc300 shaking over 60mph
Please help,
I bought the 1995 lexus sc300 last week, there is something wrong with it but I don't know where to start.
When the car run 10mph - 55mph there are no problem but if i give more some gas to right about 60mph it start to get more vibrate and noise, It seem like the motor can not go more over than 60mph.
I changed spark plug, spark plug wire set and that it. please help me out.
I bought the 1995 lexus sc300 last week, there is something wrong with it but I don't know where to start.
When the car run 10mph - 55mph there are no problem but if i give more some gas to right about 60mph it start to get more vibrate and noise, It seem like the motor can not go more over than 60mph.
I changed spark plug, spark plug wire set and that it. please help me out.
05-17-12, 09:44 PM
#2
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Is it throwing any codes? how many miles on it? Try the simple things first; check filters from air to fuel, injector cleaner, look for cracks on any vacuum lines. with out more information its hard to say.
05-18-12, 12:57 PM
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I did replace the air filter, and cleaned fuel injectors, i have check the vaccum line.
I saw right by the power steering pump and resevoir there are two hose line are missing.
the motor the shaking when i step the gas try to go to 60 mph.
I saw right by the power steering pump and resevoir there are two hose line are missing.
the motor the shaking when i step the gas try to go to 60 mph.
05-18-12, 01:25 PM
#5
If it were engine related I would assume that your Check Engine light would be illuminated, but...
It could be that you are running on regular gas rather than premium and what you are feeling is engine knock. You should also check your oil level to ensure that it is adequate.
If it is genuine rod knock, you probably would be able to hear that even at low speeds and idle. An engine with a rod knock can survive gentle driving for a long time. Hard accelerations or freeway speeds are very bad news, and the usual result is the connecting rod will break resulting in catastrophic engine failure.
If it is not the engine, then it is most likely warped rotors. However, you would notice the steering wheel shaking while driving, and it would be especially noticeable when braking.
It could be that you are running on regular gas rather than premium and what you are feeling is engine knock. You should also check your oil level to ensure that it is adequate.
If it is genuine rod knock, you probably would be able to hear that even at low speeds and idle. An engine with a rod knock can survive gentle driving for a long time. Hard accelerations or freeway speeds are very bad news, and the usual result is the connecting rod will break resulting in catastrophic engine failure.
If it is not the engine, then it is most likely warped rotors. However, you would notice the steering wheel shaking while driving, and it would be especially noticeable when braking.
05-18-12, 02:51 PM
#6
there should be 2 hoses from the switch on the reservoir, one running to the intake piping post maf/pre throttle body, and one running to the intake manifold post throttle body. if these hoses are missing, and the other 2 ends aren't capped off, then you are loosing metered air and basically have a vac leak, which can definitely make your car run badly. I would reconnect those hoses or cap off all 4 ports, but yuo will loose the power steering idle up if you choose to cap. Alot of people do this though and the engine will not stall out from not having it in turns, it just wont be as buttery smooth.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-18-12 at 02:56 PM.
05-18-12, 08:09 PM
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Thank you for all try to help me out,
I will double check on the rotor, and the vaccum line.
Does any one have a link or picture of those two vaccum line that (Ali SC3) talking about?
I will double check on the rotor, and the vaccum line.
Does any one have a link or picture of those two vaccum line that (Ali SC3) talking about?
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05-18-12, 08:15 PM
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If it were engine related I would assume that your Check Engine light would be illuminated, but...
It could be that you are running on regular gas rather than premium and what you are feeling is engine knock. You should also check your oil level to ensure that it is adequate.
If it is genuine rod knock, you probably would be able to hear that even at low speeds and idle. An engine with a rod knock can survive gentle driving for a long time. Hard accelerations or freeway speeds are very bad news, and the usual result is the connecting rod will break resulting in catastrophic engine failure.
If it is not the engine, then it is most likely warped rotors. However, you would notice the steering wheel shaking while driving, and it would be especially noticeable when braking.
It could be that you are running on regular gas rather than premium and what you are feeling is engine knock. You should also check your oil level to ensure that it is adequate.
If it is genuine rod knock, you probably would be able to hear that even at low speeds and idle. An engine with a rod knock can survive gentle driving for a long time. Hard accelerations or freeway speeds are very bad news, and the usual result is the connecting rod will break resulting in catastrophic engine failure.
If it is not the engine, then it is most likely warped rotors. However, you would notice the steering wheel shaking while driving, and it would be especially noticeable when braking.
05-18-12, 09:22 PM
#9
Rod knock is usually the result of a bearing going bad. Nevertheless, having not been given enough concrete information for a diagnosis (ie. a video with audio), we are just throwing darts at a board.
05-18-12, 10:27 PM
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My rod didn't knock at all...engine ran so smooth it was hard to tell it was running. Suddenly I felt a misfire in one of the cylinders as I'm driving, then my motor sounds like a garbage disposal with a fork in it
05-19-12, 08:48 AM
#11
I've spun a bearing, and you are right, it sounds horrible. But that doesn't explain the vibration he is describing. We can discuss this ad nauseum, but without more information from the OP we are just spinning...our wheels. 
05-20-12, 10:15 AM
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got the answer!
My distributor cover is cracked, last night I trart up the car and because night vision I saw electric jump all over the distributor.
05-20-12, 10:51 AM
#13
I had that happen before, except my car ran on 2 cylinders only no matter what the speed was.
you must have caught it in the early stages. I would replace with a new Toyota cap and also a new toyota rotor inside. That should fix it then, but if it still has slight issues pull the plugs they may be fouled from the misfires but most likely you wont need to since it runs still at low speeds.
you must have caught it in the early stages. I would replace with a new Toyota cap and also a new toyota rotor inside. That should fix it then, but if it still has slight issues pull the plugs they may be fouled from the misfires but most likely you wont need to since it runs still at low speeds.
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