1jz Head removal tips?
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1jz Head removal tips?
Hey everybody, just checking to see if anyone has any tips to removing a 1jz head with the block staying in the car. So far it has been massive PITA.
I am having the most trouble with the intake manifold. The bolts to remove it are extremely hard to get to. And if i want to remove the head with the intake still attached i have to get the wiring harness free. neither of these things are going well for me, so any tips on how to do this would be much appreciated.
I am having the most trouble with the intake manifold. The bolts to remove it are extremely hard to get to. And if i want to remove the head with the intake still attached i have to get the wiring harness free. neither of these things are going well for me, so any tips on how to do this would be much appreciated.
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also I'm near Flint
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[QUOTE=xHypnofish;7243416]wiring harness is attached to the firewall and runs down between the runner of the intake to everything. I don't thinks its possible to remove the head with it still 'attached' to the intake like it is.
Yea I have done this many times, All you do is undo the 2 bolts holding the wire loom boot in the firewall on the pass side and unplug the connectors from the ecu etc and then pull them through the fire wall This way makes it so easy!
Yea I have done this many times, All you do is undo the 2 bolts holding the wire loom boot in the firewall on the pass side and unplug the connectors from the ecu etc and then pull them through the fire wall This way makes it so easy!
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The harness for a 1jz runs inside the bend in the plenum and all the Knock sensor, Oil pressure steering sensors,igniter well you get the idea all run through the plenum so to answer your ? I do it all the time and I'm sure others do as well who are extremely familiar, but would not recommend if your not pretty mechanically inclined as there is alot of sensor wires ground straps oil dipstick tubes, auto dipstick, support brackets, fuel lines, IAC lines so forth and so forth.
Not trying to put you down but it definetly takes time and patience, then you have cam removal and tensioner removal,gears, backplate. etc. etc.
In short its a -itch for a new guy.
You could pull it through the firewall but that presents a few challenges as well, Tranny sensors, knock sensors and lots of other.
GL. Will help u however I can though.
Not trying to put you down but it definetly takes time and patience, then you have cam removal and tensioner removal,gears, backplate. etc. etc.
In short its a -itch for a new guy.
You could pull it through the firewall but that presents a few challenges as well, Tranny sensors, knock sensors and lots of other.
GL. Will help u however I can though.
Last edited by blk&blu*j; 05-19-12 at 05:20 PM.
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[quote=xspsi6;7243472]
Like I said, I beleive everything is free except for the wiring harness. I'm sure there will be a few things I didn't notice when we go to remove the head that will be dealt with at that time.
So, I guess from what you guys are saying is that the harness can be pulled through the firewall and pulled through the intake runners to be free of the intake, minus ground straps and brackets,
wiring harness is attached to the firewall and runs down between the runner of the intake to everything. I don't thinks its possible to remove the head with it still 'attached' to the intake like it is.
Yea I have done this many times, All you do is undo the 2 bolts holding the wire loom boot in the firewall on the pass side and unplug the connectors from the ecu etc and then pull them through the fire wall This way makes it so easy!
Yea I have done this many times, All you do is undo the 2 bolts holding the wire loom boot in the firewall on the pass side and unplug the connectors from the ecu etc and then pull them through the fire wall This way makes it so easy!
The harness for a 1jz runs inside the bend in the plenum and all the Knock sensor, Oil pressure steering sensors,igniter well you get the idea all run through the plenum so to answer your ? I do it all the time and I'm sure others do as well who are extremely familiar, but would not recommend if your not pretty mechanically inclined as there is alot of sensor wires ground straps oil dipstick tubes, auto dipstick, support brackets, fuel lines, IAC lines so forth and so forth.
Not trying to put you down but it definetly takes time and patience, then you have cam removal and tensioner removal,gears, backplate. etc. etc.
In short its a -itch for a new guy.
You could pull it through the firewall but that presents a few challenges as well, Tranny sensors, knock sensors and lots of other.
GL. Will help u however I can though.
Not trying to put you down but it definetly takes time and patience, then you have cam removal and tensioner removal,gears, backplate. etc. etc.
In short its a -itch for a new guy.
You could pull it through the firewall but that presents a few challenges as well, Tranny sensors, knock sensors and lots of other.
GL. Will help u however I can though.
So, I guess from what you guys are saying is that the harness can be pulled through the firewall and pulled through the intake runners to be free of the intake, minus ground straps and brackets,
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