Ignition problems
#1
Ignition problems
So today I was driving my sc300 and as I came down a hill the engine died out of nowhere. All the lights were on in the car, there was no sounds I didn't have the radio on and I heard nothing. Tried restarting the car but it just sounded like it didnt want to start.
The starter was working fine and the battery is brand new along with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I had to have the car towed to my local shop but once it got there it started up first try but died after about five minutes. After my mechanic tried to see if the computer was throwing any codes he found nothing. The second time the car restarted and idled fine for over 30 minutes and he had me drive it home.
He wants me to keep driving it but I don;t want to get stranded again, even though this time it was only 2 miles from home.
From what I have searched it could be anything from the coil to the fuel computer. I was thinking I will buy a new coil (~$70) but im not sure thats the issue.
Thanks to anyone who took the time to read this, any input or questions on something I may have left out appreciated.
The starter was working fine and the battery is brand new along with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I had to have the car towed to my local shop but once it got there it started up first try but died after about five minutes. After my mechanic tried to see if the computer was throwing any codes he found nothing. The second time the car restarted and idled fine for over 30 minutes and he had me drive it home.
He wants me to keep driving it but I don;t want to get stranded again, even though this time it was only 2 miles from home.
From what I have searched it could be anything from the coil to the fuel computer. I was thinking I will buy a new coil (~$70) but im not sure thats the issue.
Thanks to anyone who took the time to read this, any input or questions on something I may have left out appreciated.
#5
Tested the coil today with a multimeter. It tested low for both the primary and secondary winding. It was about .5 where it was supposed to be .75-.8 and 8200 where it was supposed to be between 10,000-11,000.
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#8
the car would usually throw codes for those sensors and the coil does not fail very often on an sc3.
It sounds like your ecu or your fuel ecu.
for the ecu do the procedure for pulling the codes and see what happens, I think its jumper te1 and e1.
the check engine light should come on still, but not blink out the codes if there aren't any tripped.
let us know how it reacts.
as for fuel pump ecu, you can rule that by jumpering it on in the same diagnostic connector.
its like Fp and the pin that has voltage.
It sounds like your ecu or your fuel ecu.
for the ecu do the procedure for pulling the codes and see what happens, I think its jumper te1 and e1.
the check engine light should come on still, but not blink out the codes if there aren't any tripped.
let us know how it reacts.
as for fuel pump ecu, you can rule that by jumpering it on in the same diagnostic connector.
its like Fp and the pin that has voltage.
#9
the car would usually throw codes for those sensors and the coil does not fail very often on an sc3.
It sounds like your ecu or your fuel ecu.
for the ecu do the procedure for pulling the codes and see what happens, I think its jumper te1 and e1.
the check engine light should come on still, but not blink out the codes if there aren't any tripped.
let us know how it reacts.
as for fuel pump ecu, you can rule that by jumpering it on in the same diagnostic connector.
its like Fp and the pin that has voltage.
It sounds like your ecu or your fuel ecu.
for the ecu do the procedure for pulling the codes and see what happens, I think its jumper te1 and e1.
the check engine light should come on still, but not blink out the codes if there aren't any tripped.
let us know how it reacts.
as for fuel pump ecu, you can rule that by jumpering it on in the same diagnostic connector.
its like Fp and the pin that has voltage.
#10
the car would usually throw codes for those sensors and the coil does not fail very often on an sc3.
It sounds like your ecu or your fuel ecu.
for the ecu do the procedure for pulling the codes and see what happens, I think its jumper te1 and e1.
the check engine light should come on still, but not blink out the codes if there aren't any tripped.
let us know how it reacts.
as for fuel pump ecu, you can rule that by jumpering it on in the same diagnostic connector.
its like Fp and the pin that has voltage.
It sounds like your ecu or your fuel ecu.
for the ecu do the procedure for pulling the codes and see what happens, I think its jumper te1 and e1.
the check engine light should come on still, but not blink out the codes if there aren't any tripped.
let us know how it reacts.
as for fuel pump ecu, you can rule that by jumpering it on in the same diagnostic connector.
its like Fp and the pin that has voltage.
*edit: Did the code check and it just blinked every .5 seconds so that is good from what I read. For the fuel i jumped the fp and +b it ran fine and then removed it while running and it continued to run fine nothing noticeable happened. Any other things to try or do I need to crack open my main computer?
Last edited by 187; 10-07-12 at 01:06 PM.
#11
My car did the same thing. Im here looking for solutions myself. I jumped the te1 and e1 this morning to see if my timing was off. It wasnt. But what I noticed was the the car was flashing no codes. Also I noticed that my over drive light was flashing. I dont know what the hell is wrong with it.
#12
My car did the same thing. Im here looking for solutions myself. I jumped the te1 and e1 this morning to see if my timing was off. It wasnt. But what I noticed was the the car was flashing no codes. Also I noticed that my over drive light was flashing. I dont know what the hell is wrong with it.
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