AC poopy-ed the bed, and it's summer in las vegas
06-27-12, 05:03 PM
#31
compressor
Took my car down to an AC specialist.
He looked at the compressor and turned it by hand.
He said the compressor was way to hard to turn and was bad.
He also said the high pressure release valve had been venting, so at some point the pressure had been too high.
He said replacing the compressor would probably fix it, but if metal shavings drained out, I should also replace the condenser.
Does this sound right? As you can tell I am clueless.
He looked at the compressor and turned it by hand.
He said the compressor was way to hard to turn and was bad.
He also said the high pressure release valve had been venting, so at some point the pressure had been too high.
He said replacing the compressor would probably fix it, but if metal shavings drained out, I should also replace the condenser.
Does this sound right? As you can tell I am clueless.
06-28-12, 09:52 PM
#32
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the compressor should have some type of resistence when you turn it by hand but not a whole lot. the clutch may have seized up, you should be able to turn the outside of the compressor (clutch) freely but like i mentioned before with some resistence but not sweat breaking. idk what he meant by high side venting and there shouldnt be any metal shavings unless your pistons inside the compressor had major damage. i was asking you how much freon you put in before to figure out if you were overpressurizing. usually when ppl add to much freon it becomes becomes hot and overheats the system which will result in a shut down. before i did the r134 in my brothers sc3 i opened all the valves and blew everything out with compressed air after i replace all the seals then vacummed the entire system for 15 min. then added three cans of freon and released air until i see liquid freon flowing.
06-28-12, 11:30 PM
#33
the compressor should have some type of resistence when you turn it by hand but not a whole lot. the clutch may have seized up, you should be able to turn the outside of the compressor (clutch) freely but like i mentioned before with some resistence but not sweat breaking. idk what he meant by high side venting and there shouldnt be any metal shavings unless your pistons inside the compressor had major damage. i was asking you how much freon you put in before to figure out if you were overpressurizing. usually when ppl add to much freon it becomes becomes hot and overheats the system which will result in a shut down. before i did the r134 in my brothers sc3 i opened all the valves and blew everything out with compressed air after i replace all the seals then vacummed the entire system for 15 min. then added three cans of freon and released air until i see liquid freon flowing.
So if I buy a new compressor, the clutch is part of it right?
07-08-12, 03:35 PM
#36
replaced compressor, fixed the problem
So put a used old school R12 compressor in that I bought off ebay for 110$
Had to get a slightly longer accessory belt to fit the larger pulley.
Charged it up with a can and a half of 134a, works great again.
A couple things I noticed, the AC compressor that I took out works fine, and it's a 134a compressor, I spun the pulley it moves freely and creates suction and pressure out of the hose connection sites.
The problem was when the previous owner tried to upgrade the AC compressor to 134a, they did a hack job on the wiring harness, so one of the wires to the pressure sensor on the compressor was pulled out!
Only thing I am still questioning, is why didn't the AC computer sense the compressor was f'ed on the auto-diagnostic check?
So if anyone needs a newer working 134a compressor, I have one.
Had to get a slightly longer accessory belt to fit the larger pulley.
Charged it up with a can and a half of 134a, works great again.
A couple things I noticed, the AC compressor that I took out works fine, and it's a 134a compressor, I spun the pulley it moves freely and creates suction and pressure out of the hose connection sites.
The problem was when the previous owner tried to upgrade the AC compressor to 134a, they did a hack job on the wiring harness, so one of the wires to the pressure sensor on the compressor was pulled out!
Only thing I am still questioning, is why didn't the AC computer sense the compressor was f'ed on the auto-diagnostic check?
So if anyone needs a newer working 134a compressor, I have one.
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