B.Diddy

iTrader: (1)

I have been reading several threads on the 1JZ swap but nothing has really answered my question.


I know from talking to a few people that you only need maybe 7-8 wires total to have your swapped 1JZ/2JZ engine harness, spliced into the project car's chassis/dash/starting harness and have the car idling and running. Does anyone know what are the minimum mandatory pin outs that need to be connected from the engine harness? I can clean up the harness and get all the gauges and what nots wired in once the car is running and able to move on its own.

There were a few on the main ECU harness, then there were a few on the Kick panel interface harness.

I know you need Power and ground to the Stock ECU.
I know you also need to connect the thick Black/orange power wires... ( cant remember which pinout, etc.)
I know you need to trigger your fuel pump, and igniter (cant remember which pinout)

Any links or feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rich

TweakTech

iTrader: (2)

Well just for starters, there are roughly 50-60 wires that need hooked up (depending on year, and transmission type) for everything to work like factory. To get the engine running, there are 7-11 wires (again, depending on year and transmission type) to get the engine to fire.

B.Diddy

iTrader: (1)

Understood.... I'm thinking about building a time attack car with a 1JZ/W58 or 1JZ/R154 so the dash, HVAC, power windows and all the bells and whistles will be somewhat irrelevant. Since I plan on running 15psi or so... I don't think a standalone is cost effective, where a stock ECU can easily do an adequate job.

Once the car is driving, I can focus on gauges or simply buy all new more accurate gauges and mount them into an aluminum dash panel or something. (will cross that bridge when I get to it)

are those 7-11 wires proprietary information or are you willing to share? I'm thinking about an non VVTi 1JZGTE/5spd swap. i assume once the factory ECU is plugged in those 7-11 wires are similar in all the Toyota swaps.

B.Diddy

iTrader: (1)

Did a little searching on Lextreme and found this information for the 1UZ. I would imagine it is very similar for the JZ motors.

EB2 connector is a 3 pin connector and is near the igniter
EB1 connector is a 6 pin connector and is near the igniter
IJ2 connector is 17 pin connector near the ECU is dark gray, has 2 rows of pins.

You need switched power to EB2(2). This is a black and orange wire.
You need switched power to EB2(3). This is a black and red wire
You need switched power to IJ2(11). This is a black and orange wire.

You need constant power to EB1(4). This is a black and yellow wire


To start you need to supply "start" power to EB2(1) which is a black wire.

And of course you need to figure out what it takes to turn your fuel pump on. Different on every vehicle.

TweakTech

iTrader: (2)

It's not so much that it would be the same for a JZ swap, as it would the 300 vs 400 chassis. Yes, the wiring is different between an SC400 and SC300 on the body plugs....not by much, but enough to prevent your car from starting if you were using the wrong schematic.

88supramki

What car are you starting with? SC3 or SC4?

What car is the motor coming from? Chaser, Soarer, Supra, Aristo, etc?

Answer those questions and then you can get some concrete answers.