Performance & Maintenance Engine, forced induction, intakes, exhausts, torque converters, transmissions, etc.

searched.. need a few swap q's answered

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Old 06-30-12, 07:40 PM
  #16  
99SC42
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Yeah but to be on the safe side just get a TT fan blade lol or you gonna pay the price.

2 things will happen , either the your water pump will break or the clutch fan will break , crush your fan shroud and distroy your radiator.

because you have to use some spacer and it will wobble because it's off balance learned the hard way lol so don't do . Spend the $98 and toyota and get your new blade, it's cheaper than replacing the water pump, radiator , new fan blade and fan shroud.

BTW, I am not try to go OT, but why are you going gte is you are already na-t?

gl with the project , just remember this doing right or do it twice and stuff usually break at the wrong place and the wrong time.
Old 07-01-12, 12:29 AM
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96blksc300
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Thank you for the heads up Quicksc4 will deff. get a tt fan blade lol.

As for why I am going gte when I am already na-t.... many reasons actually.. non b/c I dont like the na-t

I picked up this car as an uncompleted project. It looks like it had a piggy back on it at some time or another and the wiring job for that was total crap. Someone before me cut the freaking idle air control plug off. It has an AEM standalone that is really the only way I have gotten it to idle without the iac. I also have a BL built auto for this car that b/c of the P.I. converter snout shearing off had a lot of metal run through it and is currently getting rebuilt. So i have put in a stock trans and lowered the boost a lot lol. that trans is now starting to leak from the pump drive seal. This motor has about 80k boosted miles on it running between 20-28 psi at different times. The compression has almost gone and it smokes a ton of blow by through my catch can even at idle.

So to sum it up.. I have tranny issues. The wiring sucks. The motor is on its way out the door. lol

With this being my daily now I just want to start over with stock reliability, better gas mileage, and to have a good platform to make power down the road when this is not my daily anymore. So for my situation a gte swap seems to be the best route. I looked into a 1jz and those motors are getting harder and harder to find.. especially one out of a soarer (makes wiring easier/cheaper). With the prices i have been getting the wiring for a non soarer 1jz costs the same as doing an aristo 2jz. Seeing as how I am staying auto there really is only about $400 or so difference between the two so I chose the aristo route.

Whew that was long ... I'm sorry lol

On that note... I guess I will make a part out thread soon (with voucher) for all the extras i'll have left over lol like...
aem ems with 3 bar map and ait
devils own water meth progressive setup
pte 1000cc injectors
aeromotive fpr
aem true boost
aem wb
greddy/trust SMIC
Dave h turbo manifold
te-45a limit turbo
tial 44mm
downpipe
return/feed lines
ect... ect...

Dont know if i will part everything out yet or not though :\
Old 07-01-12, 04:08 AM
  #18  
Vwpride12
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Let's see some pictures!
Old 07-01-12, 03:19 PM
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99SC42
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Wow that's alot issues , it is a good idea to start over !

gl with the swap!
Old 07-05-12, 08:49 AM
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96blksc300
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Thanks man. Motor showed up on Tuesday so I have been working on getting the harness off it and the GE to send out to get done. Looks like I will be sending it out to Accountsx2. From the "stalking" I've done.. everyone seems to be really happy with his work and he seems to know his ish and what he is doing lol. Much more affordable compared to Tweak.

Almost all the other swap parts and maintenance parts have been ordered so hopefully this week I will have time to get the front sump swapped out for the rear sump setup while I await the return of the harness. After fighting with taking this harness off the motor while it is out of the car, there is no way i'm going to put the motor in and then put the harness on lol. I'll wait till i get the new harness and put in on the motor THEN drop the motor in haha.
Old 07-05-12, 10:24 AM
  #21  
Vrank
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Don't waste your money on a tach adaptor, all that's needed is to bypass a resistor on the back of the tach board.

And I don know where all this resistor stuff is coming from about the temperature gauge, the cluster has a ground wire that needs to be grounded for the one wire temp input to complete it's circuit. I'm sure account2x will do this for you
Old 07-05-12, 10:27 AM
  #22  
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Oh, what part of AR are you in? I'll be in Conway by the end of the month.
Old 07-05-12, 09:50 PM
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96blksc300
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Yea the tach adapter and resistor stuff was things i found in my original quest for info.. I
have now realized that i dont need any of that stuff and know the proper way to do it now lol

Moving to conway huh? I just moved from there last year to the Little Rock area. Hit me up when you get in the area. I'm about 25 miles from Conway.
Old 07-09-12, 03:28 AM
  #24  
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Yeah I definitely will man, gf and i will be looking for the meets to go have some fun and glad to see some jz close by. I should be there first of the month. If you need a hand doing anything I don't mind, I can turn a wrench fairly well and can definitely help with swap wiring. And if you're down for some friendly runs, my daily is a holset powered 1j vvti Cressida. I'm always game.

Why not just ride out the aem for the new engine?
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