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1jz vvti swap no power whatsoever

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Old 07-10-12, 11:24 AM
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cartmill
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it cranks immediately when you hook the battery up, key or not? i'm thinking you jumpered the NSS incorrectly. or you may have the starter power wire hooked up to the wrong post on the starter...

you appear to be a honda guy, we can't rule out anything!
Old 07-10-12, 11:30 AM
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JDMb16bEG6
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Originally Posted by cartmill
it cranks immediately when you hook the battery up, key or not? i'm thinking you jumpered the NSS incorrectly. or you may have the starter power wire hooked up to the wrong post on the starter...

you appear to be a honda guy, we can't rule out anything!
Lol funny but true, here's the deal my car is a factory manual, swap is from auto, but with my w58, car has a remote start, when he instaled it he bypassed my clutch switch, so it would start without the clutch, but I don't think that's the issue, also when I do put the key in on the run position then connect the batter cable it will just click once and stop
Old 07-10-12, 12:11 PM
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JDMb16bEG6
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So I cut pin# 10 on the body body plug next to the orange body plug, as what one of the threads said to do, so now the car doesn't try to start on its own, but now when I go to start it it doesn't start
Old 07-10-12, 04:19 PM
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StiCk3
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see my thread below in my sig, it sounds just like the probs i had when i got my motor in. You're going to either wire into your clutch switch or you can bypass it altogether. PM me if you run into trouble
Old 07-10-12, 04:54 PM
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JDMb16bEG6
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So all my lights on the dash come on except for the check engine light, does not crank with the key, I have to jump the starter relay for it to crank. Does not start does not have spark of fuel, fuel pump doesn't kick on, honestly I don't think the ecu is getting power.
Old 07-10-12, 05:15 PM
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did you ever fix those 4 plugs at your fuse box?
Old 07-10-12, 05:18 PM
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JDMb16bEG6
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Originally Posted by StiCk3
did you ever fix those 4 plugs at your fuse box?
Yea, 2 of them were for the factory alarm horn, didn't need it, and the one was the mrel wire, the last one is acmg.
Old 07-11-12, 06:52 AM
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"You're in over your head"

"You're a Honda guy, we can't rule anything out!"

Cartmill for prez!

Seriously dude, pull the harness, start over. Will be less headache that way. Use continuity testing and a tsrm wiring manual to confirm you have things where they need to go. Have you checked for 12v at coils/igniter/injectors/iacv/o2? Guessing you have mrel and power stuff in the wrong places.
Old 07-11-12, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by JDMb16bEG6
so theres harnesses off of the ecu where do they go or are they not used? when i got the motor the fuse box harness was already cut and the horn as well i guess. most of the wires matched up, except for the 3 wires coming off of the motor which are the blue/orange, white/red, white/green. so i cut off the old 2 harnesses off of my 2jzge from the fuse box, and theres 4 wires that dont match up with the new motor, which are the 2 black/orange wires, and the 2 solid white wires. where do they connect?
OK, the picture of the 2 white plugs near the ECU will not be used.

The picture right below that with the 2 20g white wires, one with a red tracer and one with a green tracer are for your PPS.

The last picture with the 2 white wires, and the 2 black wires with orange tracers....you'll need a multi-meter for this, preferably one that will omit a "beep" while testing continuity.....one of the black/orange is for your theft horn, (typically 18G) and the other black/orange is MREL to the 8 pin fusebox. (typically 20g) The white wires....one is ACMG to the 8 pin fuse box (20g) and the other is for theft horn as well (18g)

Use your multimeter to test these wires before you just go and hook them up.

-Cam, Tweak'd Performance
Old 07-11-12, 10:03 AM
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Fuse box has been figured out, through out the teft horn and I don't have the plug for pps and don't need it. car only cranks when I jump the starter relay, I'm thinkin ecu is not getting any power, tomorrow I will test all grounds and powers, the tranny is grounded the back of the head is grounded and the negative cable is grounded to the block. I'm gonna test the igniter for ground also
Old 07-11-12, 10:31 AM
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To me it sounds like you just have an issue with the starter relay getting power. Have you ran a wire from an under dash plug straight to the starter solenoid with a slide on connector.

I know you have a auto ecu, but just try it.

Skip the first few photos

-Okay so all you need to do is get a thick (I used 14ga) wire, put one of those slide on ends to the wire (so it will slide on over a flat metal lead like the one seen above on the trans connector).
-Take off your remote lead on the starter (NOT the one with the nut)
-Slide on your new wire/end
-Take this wire and run it as described above into the cabin, under the dash
-Connect it to the thick black/white wire

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html
Old 07-11-12, 01:08 PM
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Even with that the car will only crank but won't start
Old 07-11-12, 01:46 PM
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cartmill
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so at least you're cranking with the key now... so now what.

you see what we mean now?
Old 07-11-12, 02:11 PM
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Do you smell fuel at all / do you hear the fuel pump
Old 07-11-12, 02:13 PM
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No fuel no spark, no check engine light koeo, I think the ecu is not getting power? Haven't had a chance to take a look yet


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