1jz vvti swap no power whatsoever
#31
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Ok guys, car still cranks no spark and no fuel. Ignition black with red stripe wire is not getting any power, fuse is good and switched the round relays still no power, anyone knows what else can cause that?
#33
Lexus Test Driver
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i am copy/pasting this from what i posted in megamax's thread:
now, about the ECU:
this is what is supposed to happen with your ECU/sensors/relays when you turn the key ON:
1. the ignition switch sends 12v+ to the IGSW pin at the ECU.
2. the ECU then powers 12v+ at MREL pin on the ecu
3. ^^^ MREL pin turns on the EFI relay, which sends 12v to your IACV, injectors, igniter, ignition coils, and B1 and B+ pins at your ecu.
4. ^^^ B1 and B+ get powered at this time to let the ecu know that the EFI relay and all the injection/ignition/iacv is turned on.
b1 and b+ only get 12v after the ECU triggers the EFI relay with the MREL pin.
^ let me say that again. MREL is an OUTPUT to trigger the EFI relay (EFI relay powers your injectors, ignition, IACV, B1, B+, and several other things).
B1 and B+ won't get powered when you have the ECU unplugged and sitting in the passenger seat.
the ECU controls the triggering of the EFI relay to keep the IACV on for 2-3 seconds after you turn the car off so it can reset the IACV or something. this seems weird, but this is how toyota did it.
BATT should have 12v all the time. (INPUT)
IGSW should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (INPUT)
MREL should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (OUTPUT)
B1 should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (INPUT)
B+ should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (INPUT)
i just re-wired a 1jz mercedes 190e for a friend last weekend and this MREL / B1 / B+ stuff is fresh on my mind.
now, about the ECU:
this is what is supposed to happen with your ECU/sensors/relays when you turn the key ON:
1. the ignition switch sends 12v+ to the IGSW pin at the ECU.
2. the ECU then powers 12v+ at MREL pin on the ecu
3. ^^^ MREL pin turns on the EFI relay, which sends 12v to your IACV, injectors, igniter, ignition coils, and B1 and B+ pins at your ecu.
4. ^^^ B1 and B+ get powered at this time to let the ecu know that the EFI relay and all the injection/ignition/iacv is turned on.
b1 and b+ only get 12v after the ECU triggers the EFI relay with the MREL pin.
^ let me say that again. MREL is an OUTPUT to trigger the EFI relay (EFI relay powers your injectors, ignition, IACV, B1, B+, and several other things).
B1 and B+ won't get powered when you have the ECU unplugged and sitting in the passenger seat.
the ECU controls the triggering of the EFI relay to keep the IACV on for 2-3 seconds after you turn the car off so it can reset the IACV or something. this seems weird, but this is how toyota did it.
BATT should have 12v all the time. (INPUT)
IGSW should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (INPUT)
MREL should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (OUTPUT)
B1 should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (INPUT)
B+ should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (INPUT)
i just re-wired a 1jz mercedes 190e for a friend last weekend and this MREL / B1 / B+ stuff is fresh on my mind.
#34
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Well, I got it to start, did the 12v mod and bam ***** fired right up, now my delema is fuel pump won't shut off when I turn the key off, check engine light dont work, temp don't work, tack doesn't work, and won't go past 3k, typical swap problems, anyone can help me out with these?
#36
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Check engine light:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-1jz-swap.html
Tach - The pre 95 cluster is the r109 resistor and the 95 and later is the r73 resistor.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2553374-post101.html
Temp - ground the back side of the brown/black wire in plug IK1 to the body
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html
3k reving - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ventually.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-1jz-swap.html
Tach - The pre 95 cluster is the r109 resistor and the 95 and later is the r73 resistor.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2553374-post101.html
Temp - ground the back side of the brown/black wire in plug IK1 to the body
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html
3k reving - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ventually.html
#39
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
Toyota to Toyota swaps are simple man. They both require the same things to run, and the same things to communicate (warning lights).
Find where your new engine needs it's power inputs and match that with the old engines needs
Find where your new engine outPuts it's communication signals and match it up to where the old engine output them.
Quickest way for me is a multimeter set to ohms to use continuity, and it's much easier when the harness is out of the car. Maybe make two lists, one where everything is now, and another where everything needs to be. Then work on eliminating list one.
Find where your new engine needs it's power inputs and match that with the old engines needs
Find where your new engine outPuts it's communication signals and match it up to where the old engine output them.
Quickest way for me is a multimeter set to ohms to use continuity, and it's much easier when the harness is out of the car. Maybe make two lists, one where everything is now, and another where everything needs to be. Then work on eliminating list one.
#40
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
Toyota to Toyota swaps are simple man. They both require the same things to run, and the same things to communicate (warning lights).
Find where your new engine needs it's power inputs and match that with the old engines needs
Find where your new engine outPuts it's communication signals and match it up to where the old engine output them.
Quickest way for me is a multimeter set to ohms to use continuity, and it's much easier when the harness is out of the car. Maybe make two lists, one where everything is now, and another where everything needs to be. Then work on eliminating list one.
Find where your new engine needs it's power inputs and match that with the old engines needs
Find where your new engine outPuts it's communication signals and match it up to where the old engine output them.
Quickest way for me is a multimeter set to ohms to use continuity, and it's much easier when the harness is out of the car. Maybe make two lists, one where everything is now, and another where everything needs to be. Then work on eliminating list one.
#41
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Check engine light:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-1jz-swap.html
Tach - The pre 95 cluster is the r109 resistor and the 95 and later is the r73 resistor.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2553374-post101.html
Temp - ground the back side of the brown/black wire in plug IK1 to the body
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html
3k reving - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ventually.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-1jz-swap.html
Tach - The pre 95 cluster is the r109 resistor and the 95 and later is the r73 resistor.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2553374-post101.html
Temp - ground the back side of the brown/black wire in plug IK1 to the body
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html
3k reving - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ventually.html
#42
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
I'm not saying it a third time. You have a lot of **** in the wrong place. Either pull the crap out and fix it, or stop posting crap and not listening, then pay someone to do it. Not trying to be a douche, but you're not trying to listen either. Just because it came out of a similar chassis does not mean unicorns can hump giraffes and give birth to Jesus.
#44
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I'm not saying it a third time. You have a lot of **** in the wrong place. Either pull the crap out and fix it, or stop posting crap and not listening, then pay someone to do it. Not trying to be a douche, but you're not trying to listen either. Just because it came out of a similar chassis does not mean unicorns can hump giraffes and give birth to Jesus.