JDMb16bEG6

Ok guys, car still cranks no spark and no fuel. Ignition black with red stripe wire is not getting any power, fuse is good and switched the round relays still no power, anyone knows what else can cause that?

JDMb16bEG6

So I think I blew all the fuses on my remote start, don't know how, but the brain is hidden behind the radio, so its gonna be a pita to get to

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

i am copy/pasting this from what i posted in megamax's thread:

now, about the ECU:

this is what is supposed to happen with your ECU/sensors/relays when you turn the key ON:
1. the ignition switch sends 12v+ to the IGSW pin at the ECU.
2. the ECU then powers 12v+ at MREL pin on the ecu
3. ^^^ MREL pin turns on the EFI relay, which sends 12v to your IACV, injectors, igniter, ignition coils, and B1 and B+ pins at your ecu.
4. ^^^ B1 and B+ get powered at this time to let the ecu know that the EFI relay and all the injection/ignition/iacv is turned on.

b1 and b+ only get 12v after the ECU triggers the EFI relay with the MREL pin.
^ let me say that again. MREL is an OUTPUT to trigger the EFI relay (EFI relay powers your injectors, ignition, IACV, B1, B+, and several other things).
B1 and B+ won't get powered when you have the ECU unplugged and sitting in the passenger seat.
the ECU controls the triggering of the EFI relay to keep the IACV on for 2-3 seconds after you turn the car off so it can reset the IACV or something. this seems weird, but this is how toyota did it.

BATT should have 12v all the time. (INPUT)
IGSW should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (INPUT)
MREL should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (OUTPUT)
B1 should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (INPUT)
B+ should have 12v only when the key is ON and in START. (INPUT)

i just re-wired a 1jz mercedes 190e for a friend last weekend and this MREL / B1 / B+ stuff is fresh on my mind.

JDMb16bEG6

Well, I got it to start, did the 12v mod and bam ***** fired right up, now my delema is fuel pump won't shut off when I turn the key off, check engine light dont work, temp don't work, tack doesn't work, and won't go past 3k, typical swap problems, anyone can help me out with these?

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

I already told you. Pull the harness, start over, easiest way. You've got a lot of stuff wired wrong

bryan767

iTrader: (6)

Check engine light:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-1jz-swap.html

Tach - The pre 95 cluster is the r109 resistor and the 95 and later is the r73 resistor.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2553374-post101.html

Temp - ground the back side of the brown/black wire in plug IK1 to the body
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html

3k reving - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ventually.html

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

i'm with Vrank.

JDMb16bEG6

I didn't do anything to the harness to begin with other then extend the body plugs, swap was out of a 99 soarer?

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Toyota to Toyota swaps are simple man. They both require the same things to run, and the same things to communicate (warning lights).

Find where your new engine needs it's power inputs and match that with the old engines needs

Find where your new engine outPuts it's communication signals and match it up to where the old engine output them.

Quickest way for me is a multimeter set to ohms to use continuity, and it's much easier when the harness is out of the car. Maybe make two lists, one where everything is now, and another where everything needs to be. Then work on eliminating list one.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Toyota to Toyota swaps are simple man. They both require the same things to run, and the same things to communicate (warning lights).

Find where your new engine needs it's power inputs and match that with the old engines needs

Find where your new engine outPuts it's communication signals and match it up to where the old engine output them.

Quickest way for me is a multimeter set to ohms to use continuity, and it's much easier when the harness is out of the car. Maybe make two lists, one where everything is now, and another where everything needs to be. Then work on eliminating list one.

JDMb16bEG6

Your the man!!!!!!

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

I'm not saying it a third time. You have a lot of **** in the wrong place. Either pull the crap out and fix it, or stop posting crap and not listening, then pay someone to do it. Not trying to be a douche, but you're not trying to listen either. Just because it came out of a similar chassis does not mean unicorns can hump giraffes and give birth to Jesus.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

^perfect post

would buy from again. A+++++++

JDMb16bEG6

Why would I pull the harness if the cars running other then the typical tach, temp, check engine light not workin, and all the fixes are just 4 posts up? Thanks for he advice, but I am not pullin the harness out for those small issues. And paying someone to do somethin that I went to school for and have a degree in would just be retarded.

YeA 2jZ

iTrader: (15)

ok this is going in my sig lol